Models > 25328732C2

25328732C2 Kenmore Freezer

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Manuals & Guides for 25328732C2

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This is a genuine OEM replacement key for the door of upright or chest freezers. If you have misplaced or damaged your key, you will need a replacement in order to lock and unlock your freezer door. W...
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If your refrigerator is not maintaining a consistent temperature, or there is frost building up, you may need to replace the defrost timer. The 120V defrost timer is a genuine OEM part that acts like ...
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The run capacitor is attached to the compressor in your refrigerator and is used to maintain a constant temperature in your freezer. It does this by cycling the compressor on and off. This run capacit...
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This evaporator fan motor is located in the back of the freezer, and circulates air over the refrigerator coils. These coils will convert the heat into cool air, which is then circulated.
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This is an adjustable foot for your freezer, refrigerator, and dryer. This part supports your unit by screwing into one of the bottom four corners, and adjusting the height of your machine. If your ap...
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$12.79
10 - 32 x 0.375
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Sold individually.
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$14.93
This multi-use screw fits various appliances and tools such as, freezers, refrigerators, wall ovens, washers, ranges, dishwashers, dryers, microwave oven combos, combos, wine and beverage coolers. *Pl...
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$25.43
Sold individually.
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Common Problems and Symptoms for 25328732C2

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Frost buildup
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Too warm
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Won’t start
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Noisy
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Fridge too warm
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Will Not Start
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Fridge and Freezer are too warm
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Doesn’t stop running
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Freezer section too warm
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Clicking sound
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Door Sweating
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Door won’t open or close
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Leaking
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Customer:
James from Navarre, FL
Parts Used:
297286803, 5304518034
Difficulty Level:
A Bit Difficult
Total Repair Time:
1- 2 hours
Tools:
Screw drivers
After getting wiring diagram off internet it was diagnosed as freezer stuck in defrost mode, temp alarm on, but fan running.
Turned gray knob on defrost timer (located bottom left back of freezer) past defrost position to verify compressor would run...it would not, but fan would run. Tested run capacitor...found borderline defective (weak, wrong value ohm meter kick). Just to be sure, removed interior shelves and interior rear and gasket to check heater at 20 ohms as OK and removed thermostat and verified contact closure after exposure in another freezer....re-installed, hooked heater back up and re-installed interior rear panel. Replaced defrost timer by unplugging 4-pin connector, then removed 2 screws that hold it to the bracket. Installed new one in reverse order. Then removed wire bail holding run capacitor to compressor plug assembly, removed run capacitor, plugged in new one. Turned on freezer......now making ice and holding cold temperature and cycling properly between freeze and defrost modes. Two problems made this repair a bit more difficult. This is the second time that defrost timer has failed...only got 3 years from last one.
79 of 95 people found this instruction helpful.
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Customer:
CHARLOTTE from SEDALIA, MO
Parts Used:
297147700
Difficulty Level:
Really Easy
Total Repair Time:
30 - 60 mins
replacement freezer keys
I accidently threw away both freezer keys to our upright Gibson and G.E. Freezers!!!! I had no luck finding replacements locally, so I got on the internet and came across PartSelect.com. I called them on the telephone; and after giving the model numbers of my freezers, the keys were on their way!! I received the keys very quickly and bot h worked perfectly. I would highly recommend Partselect.com. Charlotte M. Bishop
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Customer:
Louise from Ocala, FL
Parts Used:
5304507200
Difficulty Level:
Easy
Total Repair Time:
1- 2 hours
Ice and frost were forming in a frost free freezer
The old gasket was obviously gapping, partially from age and partially from damage during a move. To make the repair, I loosened the screws that are under the gasket and hold it in, but did not remove them. Once all were loose, I removed the old gasket, then starting at the top, ran a thin bead of food grade RTV under the portion of the door that captures the gasket. I put the sealant on that edge only, then carefully worked one of the short edges of the gasket under the plastic and tightened all but the corner screws. I then ran the RTV down the inside of the hinge side of the door and repeated the process, this time tightening the top screw and the hinge side screw at the top, but leaving the bottom most screw loose. I repeated the process on the opening side of the door. The bottom was the hardest because the gasket seemed just a little long and it was hard to get the RTV up and behind the door portion, but after a couple tried I got a good bead of sealant then slid the gasket under the door capture and tightened all the remaining screws. After closing the door, it was obvious that there were places were it did not seal well. I used some cardboard strips, cut from the box the gasket came in, to place inside the freezer, between the hard plastic of the door and the inside of the gasket where it laps over the screws. This helped a lot, but there were still a couple small areas, so I used more cardboard, from the outside, between the main portion of the gasket and the rim of the gasket. This eliminated all the gaps. I let this sit overnight and this morning removed all the cardboard for a great sealing freezer.
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