25323725101 Kenmore Freezer - Instructions

I accidently threw away both freezer keys to our upright Gibson and G.E. Freezers!!!! I had no luck finding replacements locally, so I got on the internet and came across PartSelect.com. I called them on the telephone; and after giving the model numbers of my freezers, the keys were on their way!! I received the keys very quickly and both worked perfectly. I would highly recommend Partselect.com. Charlotte M. Bishop

The old gasket was obviously gapping, partially from age and partially from damage during a move. To make the repair, I loosened the screws that are under the gasket and hold it in, but did not remove them. Once all were loose, I removed the old gasket, then starting at the top, ran a thin bead of food grade RTV under the portion of the door that captures the gasket. I put the sealant on that edge only, then carefully worked one of the short edges of the gasket under the plastic and tightened all but the corner screws. I then ran the RTV down the inside of the hinge side of the door and repeated the process, this time tightening the top screw and the hinge side screw at the top, but leaving the bottom most screw loose. I repeated the process on the opening side of the door. The bottom was the hardest because the gasket seemed just a little long and it was hard to get the RTV up and behind the door portion, but after a couple tried I got a good bead of sealant then slid the gasket under the door capture and tightened all the remaining screws. After closing the door, it was obvious that there were places were it did not seal well. I used some cardboard strips, cut from the box the gasket came in, to place inside the freezer, between the hard plastic of the door and the inside of the gasket where it laps over the screws. This helped a lot, but there were still a couple small areas, so I used more cardboard, from the outside, between the main portion of the gasket and the rim of the gasket. This eliminated all the gaps. I let this sit overnight and this morning removed all the cardboard for a great sealing freezer.

After building a test box and determining the Controller was bad simply ordered parts and installed. Installation was a little difficult due to locking spades on electrical connections.

Unplug all power from freezer. Remove Bail wire from controller capacitor unit and remove from compressor by pulling STRAIGHT from compressor body to avoid bending contacts.

Use a very small instrumentation screwdriver to release locking spade on yellow and white wires. To unlock slide screwdriver in slot along wire entry to controller body while gently pulling on wire. Note position of wires and replace on new unit in same position/order. Plug new run capacitor into new controller being careful to orient capacitor to proper position (hole matches guide on controller unit). Plug newly installed controller and capacitor into condensor and replace bail wire.

Make sure timer is not in defrost mode - manually advance timer if necessary to ensure timer is in run mode. Turn temperature control to coldest setting. Plug in and hopefully enjoy the humming noise of your newly repaired and operational compressor and freezer.

We ordered the part, which was a key, tied it on the freezer door handle, locked the door and voila, the problem was fixed. (We still have the children. :-)

Turned freezer off at themostat and unplugged freezer. Removed 2 screws at front 2 at the back and 2 at the top. Lowered top cover and removed evaporator fan bracket (2 more screws) removed themostat capulary tube( 1 screw and bracket) then unplug fan motor. Removed motor from bracket (2 screws). Put on new fan motor then removed fan blade from old motor and put on the new motor. Remounted fan motor bracket and thermostat capulary tube. Remounted top cover, plugged freezer in the set the thermostat to 4 and freezer is working fine and doing its job. I orderedmotor on a Sunday and it was shipped on Monday and I received said part at 7:pm on Wednesday.

Removed old gasket by loosening all the screws. Inserted new gasket. Be careful to prop up the plastic shell so that ALL screw holes line up, especially at the bottom, and that shell is not tilted. Then carefully insert gasket inch by inch and fasten very other screw, best from bottom up. Make sure that the gasket lip is clearly under the shell and engaged with it. Before you do anything you have to straighten out ALL the kinks with a heat gun. Do not get too close. It takes a while.

1. Turned off and unplugged the refrigerator.
2. Removed the lower back panel inside the freezer with a screwdriver.
3. Unplugged the thermostat. (No tool is needed)
4. Ordered a new thermostat from PartSelect and it arrived in 2 business days.
5. Plugged in the new thermostat..
6. Put the lower back panel inside the freezer with screwdriver.
7. Plugged in the Refrigerator and turned the power back on.
8. It is working again!!!

took the shelves out, unscrewed the rear panel,unpluged the thermistat and uncliped it from the line.Replaced with new thermistat in the reverse order. Before turning the unit back on,allowed the coils to defrost.All of the process was shown in your vidio that I was able to view while ordering the part. Thank you

Had to drag the full freezer out from the wall to expose the name plate, got the Model # and S/N and found the key on the partselect website in minutes. It was cheap so I got two. Other than FEDEX not knowing my address correctly, when I finally got the key it worked fine. Not a problem anymore.
Thanks

Removed evap cover from Commercial Refrigerator. Removed mounting screws from Evap motor mount. Replaced evap fan motor. Repositioned. Reinstalled evap cover. Tested . This motor was hard to find locally. Glad I called.

My issue was water leaking from the door. I thought it was the gasket, so I removed the gasket and the entire panel off of the door. There was water behind it that had soaked the cardboard seal, so I left that front part off for over a week to let it dry. We determined between us and our two toddlers that perhaps the door hadn't been properly closed enough on a number of occasions, so before I bought a $100 gasket, I'd try making sure the door was shut with tape, turning the freezer on and seeing what happened. There was no water after a few days, so on another user's suggestion I purchased the $15 key and twist tied it to the freezer door. Now I am locking the door after use so we won't have leaking water any longer.

Very simple repair. Removed the bail that holds the compressor controller and run capacitor from the compressor, removed the controller & capacitor, inserted a very small screwdriver into the controller to compress the barbs that hold the electrical wires to the controller. Plugged in the wires to the new controller in the same position as the original, plugged in the capacitor and then plugged the entire unit back onto the compressor, replaced the wire bail, plugged in the freezer and repair was complete.

Removed evaporator cover, unplug 2 wires to thermostat, unclipped it from the coil. Installed new themostat back the same way.

The called for part is the wrong size due a false correlation between the called for part number and the PartSelect number. I order twice and each time it was a 31 by 65 in. gasket not the appropriate 31 by 60 in.. Both were returned but no resolution.

I removed the shelves, unscrewed the cover panel of the fan motor and regulator dial, disconnected the fan motor from power, unscrewed 2 screws holding the motor to the mounting bracket and put the new motor in it's place. New motor had no thread in the mounting holes, so I put new tread in so I could use the 2 screws. Another option would have been to drill all the way through the mounting holes and use longer screws or bolts. Of course I turned the power off before I started repairs. Freezer runs like new now. Technicians wanted $400 for the job, while it cost me a mere $55 for the Motor.