FFU21C5AW2 Frigidaire Freezer - Instructions

This freezer has many screws that hold the cover on the back of the door and assist clamping the edge of the gasket in place. Be sure to just loosen the screws 3/4 the way out, use a flat head screw driver to pry the cover from the door in case over time it is stuck to the door. The new gasket will come in a creative box trying not to kink the gasket itself, but there will be some distortion of the gasket when you get it. Put it in the sun or in hot water. I put it in my dryer for 10 minutes. Remove the old gasket, and start at the top of the door to replace the gasket. TIPS: If the screws are backed out enough, there should not be any problem sliding the back part of the gasket under the cover. When on the sides, do not pull the gasket down to make it easier to slide the gasket underneath the cover. This will distort and lengthen the gasket so it will not fit and thin it out so it will not function well. Once the gasket is in place, tighten the screws being sure to feel along the outside edge of the gasket for any bulging that would indicate that portion of the gasket is NOT under the cover properly.

I accidently threw away both freezer keys to our upright Gibson and G.E. Freezers!!!! I had no luck finding replacements locally, so I got on the internet and came across PartSelect.com. I called them on the telephone; and after giving the model numbers of my freezers, the keys were on their way!! I received the keys very quickly and both worked perfectly. I would highly recommend Partselect.com. Charlotte M. Bishop

We opened our freezer last week only to find the bottom 2/3 was barely cold, while only the rear of the upper shelf was cold. In fact, it was covered in frost, despite being a frost-free model. Our frozen veggies were slushy, not rock hard, and our frozen juices were all liquid. We defrosted the freezer, plugged it back in, but immediately noticed that we didn't hear the 'whhoooooosh' that you typically hear when you close the freezer door. After 30 minutes, the rear upper shelf was frosty again, but the rest was still at room temp. We figured the freezer was a goner, so we started looking at new freezers. I headed online to see if I could fix it, and I eventually found this site. I had learned online that these symptoms can be caused by either a bad capacitor, or a bad controller (which the capacitor plugs in to). I guess you can't necessarily tell which of the two parts is defective, so I chose to order/replace both of them. I ordered the correct parts from partselect.com, and they alerted me that Frigidaire has a new replacement part for the capacitor. When the parts arrived (quickly, ftw!), I unplugged the freezer and snipped the two wires leading to the controller. Next I unplugged the controller from the compressor housing. I spliced the replacement controller's wires into the freezer's wires (using my own wire nuts...as none were included with my order :( ). I snapped the new controller onto the compressor mounting, and then plugged the capacitor in. I plugged the freezer back in, and it was time for the moment of truth. The interior light of the freezer came on, and I could hear the compressor 'humming'. I could hear it humming before the repair, so the big test was to see if it got cold. I was nervous because the freezer DIDN'T make the 'whoooshing' noise right away, but after just an hour, the 'test' mug of water was already turning into ice. It was fixed!!!! If you have these symptoms, you CAN do this!!! Unplug the freezer. Cut two wires. Unplug the controller. Splice two wires. Plug in the new controller. Snap in the new capacitor. DONE!!!

Pulled the fridge from encloser, removed rear cardboard cover and found compressor in rear. The compressor, being very accessable, was easy to find the bad starter/capacitor. I removed the spring retainer, pulled the capacitor off the starter, removed the starter by pulling outward and replaced with new. All went well when the unit started and cooled as new. Some noise at times, but traced to icemaker. As time went by, that noise was gone.

remove the rear cover, and simply pull off harness and replace starter.

We ordered the part, which was a key, tied it on the freezer door handle, locked the door and voila, the problem was fixed. (We still have the children. :-)

It was very easy to remove the broken parts of the freezer door handle still secured by screws and then attach the new handle. However, I was shocked to find that the door handle screw cover plate was not included as part of the door handle replacement issued, which I felt was misleading. Fortunately that portion from my old broken handle was still intact, though is yellowed with age, so was able to snap that in place on the new partial-handle replacement which you sent. It seems to me that to omit this portion as part of the complete handle replacement didn't make much sense, as it rendered the new replacement handle incomplete.

Pretty straight forward. Loosen all screws "but do not remove" pry door panel from door just enough to slip gasket behind panel. Make sure gasket is seated properly around door.. Tighten all screws snug...

Gasket may not seal right away due to being kinked from packaging, use a little heat on gasket witth hairdryer and push something heavy against door over night. The gasket will straighten out over night.

Bought a new
capacitor.

This was a simple job. Raised the flap in the back that houses the compressor, removed the wire that holds the relay, pulled out the old relay and pushed the new one on. Replaced wire holder and that was it. Plugged it frig and freezer is at zero and lower compartment at 35. As easy as brushing your teeth!

Removed the numerous screws and took the door panel off. Cleaned and dried it. Replaced the insulation and hung the penal with 2 screws at the top and sides. Started to fit the gasket under the edge of the panel and put on the screws as I went across the top then down the sides finishing across the bottom. Perfect fit but could not get the door to seal at all. Went out and bought a new freezer(did I say it was 17 yrs old?!?!).

I located the part that was the culprit as it had buzzed very much before quitting. This is an easy removal as the part is in a two prong jack and just needs to be carefully removed with the new part inserted back in the jack provided. The refrigerator works fine now, but the run capacitor will still buzz on start up of the compressor. I do hope this is normal in this model? anyway it runs fine mow. Thank you.

Super easy. That was super cool and saved me $500.00.

The retaining wire keeping the starter in place was first removed then the starter was easily removed. Pulling the old wire off was a little difficult because I had to pull harder than I expected. Getting the wire back on was probably the hardest part. I had to compress one part of the plug so I could get it to fit back on then it was simply a matter of placing the starter back in position and replacing the wire that holds it snugly in place. 20 minutes or so start to finish and new starter works well.

Had to drag the full freezer out from the wall to expose the name plate, got the Model # and S/N and found the key on the partselect website in minutes. It was cheap so I got two. Other than FEDEX not knowing my address correctly, when I finally got the key it worked fine. Not a problem anymore.
Thanks