WED6600VW0 Whirlpool Dryer - Instructions

First I unplugged the dryer, then removed the back panel, this exposed most all of the wiring and I could see the heater coils.
Not knowing what the problem was I started looking at the coils and could not see any broken parts.
So then checked the thermal fuse for continuity I removed the two wires from it with a small pair of needle nose pliers, it was held in place by two screws, once they were removed the fuse came out easily, I checked continuity with a volt meter placing the meter on X1 Ohms and could not get a reading.
I replaced with a new one and put it all back together the way I took it apart.
Then I plugged it in and it worked first time, I now have warm dry clothes.

To reach the heating element you only need to open the back cover of the dryer (about 8 nut-head screws). Remember to disconnect the power.

To remove the heating element there are two small nut-head screws. Remove the two electric wires. Then you can pull the heating element away.

You can check the heating element with an ohm-meter or visually inspect it to see if the heating element spiral wire is broken.

Don't hurry to dispose the old element. My model includes a small electric safety part. You'll need to transfer it to the new heating element (that comes without it)..

Good luck.

Cleaning the lint out of the whole machine took quite a bit of time--it was everywhere. Underneath the lint trap was a collection that ultimately ruined the thermal fuse where it restricted the air flow considerably.

Ascertaining the problem was the most time consuming part.

The actual repair was quite simple and didn't take but 15-20 minutes.

The repair was easy. the most time consuming part was vacuuming the dust from the back of the Dryer, The repair required removing screw from the back panel of the dryer. Then removing screws from the heating element and unplugging the wires. The only moderately diffculy part was swapping the sensor form the old element.

Moved dryer from wall,disconnected power. Unscrewed the 12+ sheet metal screws holding on the back cover. Located heating element, remover it's two sheet metal screws and pulled down on the element to remove. Disconnected the two electrical leads from element and went to the top of Dryer. Do not remiember if told to remove the tempture kill button was easy to see that it was needed on new element. Moved high tempeture senson to new element. Reversed steps to install new element. Replaced back cover, pluged in and powered up. Works like a champ. Thanks for the price on the part and the video which started me on the right track. I'll be back !!

I started to repair this and got busy and ended up calling a repair service -- that was the first time. They repaired it for over $200 and said the cause was bad venting. I fixed the vent before using the fixed dryer but it blew again. So I ordered these parts and replaced them myself for a lot of savings. However, the dryer still overheated. Through lots of testing I found the root cause the repairman missed: The heating element had gotten so hot that the assembly holding it warped, hitting the element and shorting it. So a new element is on order. I still needed the parts I ordered here but the overall repair ended up more complicated and expensive. I was disappointed a paid repair person left without further diagnosis. If he had unplugged the vent and checked the heat on the exhaust vent (as I ended up doing) it would have been obvious more than a new thermal fuse/thermistor was necessary. Instead I wasted over $200 on his visit. So my advice is if you're at all handy, repair this yourself. The dryer has a service manual inside the front toe board that walks you through most diagnostics and tests. However, it took a little more than that for me to discover the heating element problem. This was a very dangerous situation that could have easily led to a fire, yet not found by a trained technician!

I first disconnected the power. Then, I took off the back panel with about 8-10 screws. There were a couple of screws that held the heating element in place, which I removed. Then, I disconnected the heating element. The heating element was toward the bottom right hand side and was easily accessible. The connections to the heating element were a little bit tough to disconnect but not too bad. I had to use a flat head screw driver to kind of pry them off but looking back I think some needlenose pliers would have worked better. I then removed the bad heating element and plugged in the new one. I replaced all the screws and turned the dryer back on. It blew hot air again and all was well. I am not very mechanical and it was all pretty easy.

Grow a second set of hands. Always unplug any appliance. Remove lint screen. remove two screws (philips Head). I took a wooden shim lightly tapped w/hammer to pop front of dryer top free. Mine worked on hinges and just flipped back til it rested against the wall. Removed two 5/16 screws inside holding face on carefully raise face section off the support clips at either side on the bottom. Pull drum out (I have the large style drum commercial size [approx.). Clean the inside free of all lint (known to be fire hazard). Sling new belt around drum. Get newly grown set of hands to hold drum in place. Pinch belt to fit between tensioner, lift tensioner and place belt around motor pulley. Spin drum couple times to make certain belt isn't twisted. Reverse dismantle proccess to put back together. Replace all parts that come with kit, you'll feel better knowing you got a new dryer, almost.

After a few years of slamming the dryer door (at least that is what my husband says), the catch on the dryer door broke. Using pliers (I used needle nose) squeeze the outer edges of the catch together (vertically). With it compressed, it should slide out easily. My husband had jacked with ours prior to the repair, so the broken piece in the door was actually sideways and would not fit through the hole. Using a screwdriver, I pushed that piece into the door (it lives in the door somewhere now). I was then able to slide out the rest of the old catch. Compress the new catch and insert it into the hole in the door. Push it in until it clicks into place. DONE! Happy Drying!

After realizing that my dryer was no longer heating, I took off the back and examined the heating element. I saw that a coil was broken and knew that it needed replaced. When the part came in, I basically changed out the wires that were plugged into the old element on to the new one, replaced the screws in the heating element housing and back panel, plugged in the dryer and was back in business! Oh, by the way...I am a 49 year old WOMAN!!!!

couldn't get blower wheel off of the motor. really tight. rounded off the wheel's square hub while trying to hold it still as I turned the motor shaft out. No, I wasn't turning it the wrong way :) I ended up going to the back of the dryer and using the multimax to quickly cut the wheel away from the hub. I love that oscillating saw! Just for fun, I put the motor in a bench vise and got the wheel hub off (in pieces). VERY tight! Ordered new wheel, and the job was smooth sailing from there on. I am guessing that experienced repair people automatically order the motor and blower wheel at the same time(?) BTW both parts were perfect matches for the originals. Not surprised; this has always been my experience with partselect.com!

Removed rear panel 10 screws, and heating element was situated on the right hand side of dryer and was held in place by two screws and had two heavy duty red wires connected to the element which were easily removed . Installing this item was a breeze .

1st Unpluged power.
2nd removed two screws under lint screen cover.
3rd poped up lid with flathead screwdryer, then removed (2) 5/16 screws from door cover and unpluged lid switch, lifted up dryer door pannel
4th removed drum
5th took out plastic triangle wheel rings
6th removed old belt guild (to motor pully)
7th removed old wheels and plastic rings stops
8th cleaned excessive hair dust with shopvac
9th put new replaicment part in dryer. made sure to turn manually to make sure belt was lined up properly, then put all dryer peices back.
10th aditional work, took back cover off and removed the (4) 1/4 screws for lint screen case (left side in dryer) vacumed out any excessive dirt lint ect, also cleaned any excessive dust I found in back of dryer, dryer , exhaust ect, and put all back together.
JUst like a new dryer aain after all PM was complete.

1. disconnect power,gas and vent lines
2. pop off top of unit
3. remove front of dryer
4. lay unit on its back
5. remove drum and replace pulley assembly,belt,drum rollers of which it has 2 rear and 2 front
6. reverse above and then remove filter-vent housing and scrape off old seal install new seal
7. re-connect power,gas and vent use again
8. only sad part to whole job was seeing how cheaply whirlpool now makes thier products

Great! Spent about $36.00 and I ended up with a overhauled dryer. I ended up cleaning the whole thing out, it's amazing how much stuff accummulates in the frame of a dryer, I also found about $2.00 in change. It's a good idea to clean out a dryer every few years and the broken belt forced me to do it.
But anyway the parts cam very quick and had easy to follow directions.
I would reccomend part select. Matt