Models > WED88HEAC1

WED88HEAC1 Whirlpool Dryer

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Manuals & Guides for WED88HEAC1

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The dryer thermal fuse, also sometimes referred to as the thermal cut off or temperature fuse, is a 2 by 1/2-inch, white, plastic safety mechanism that halts the flow of electricity to the motor circu...
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Often referred to as a dryer belt tension pulley wheel, this idler pulley is an OEM approved replacement part for a variety of dryer models. The idler pulley puts tension on the drive belt, and if the...
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This drum support roller is sold individually. Most dryers require two. The tri-rings are included. This is a drum support roller for a dryer. It is a genuine replacement part. The part includes the d...
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This dryer repair kit consists of five commonly replaced dryer parts: one multi-rib belt (part #661570V and measures 93 1/2 inches long), four drum support rollers, one idler assembly, nine tri-rings,...
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$21.95
This is a single dryer drum belt that measures 93.5 inches. The belt rotates the dryer drum and is a common wear part that can become brittle over time. It can also stretch and change shape, so keep t...
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This small but mighty OEM piece is called a tri-ring and is used to support the drum roller shaft and the idler pulley shaft in your dryer. It helps to provide a tight seal between components by evenl...
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The internal-bias thermostat, also know as a thermistor, is used to prevent the dryer from overheating. It does this by monitoring and controlling the temperature of the inside of the dryer drum. If ...
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It is important for your dryer to be properly leveled, as an unleveled one can cause excessive vibration and noise when operating, may not drain properly, and can cause excessive wear on various parts...
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This thermal cut-off kit includes a genuine OEM replacement high limit thermostat and a fuse. The thermostat is a safety device used to prevent the dryer from overheating, and the fuse serves as a bac...
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If your dryer is not tumbling, will not start, or is excessively noisy while operating, there may be an issue with your idler pulley. The idler pulley works by maintaining a constant tension on the dr...
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This is an authentic OEM replacement moisture sensor for your dryer. The sensor detects the moisture levels in your clothing while the appliance is operating, and once the appropriate level has been r...
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This heating element connection wire kit is a genuine OEM replacement for your electric dryer. The kit is used to connect the thermostat to the heater element. The kit comes with a yellow wire nut and...
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Common Problems and Symptoms for WED88HEAC1

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Noisy
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Too hot
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Not Heating
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Door won’t close
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Marks left on clothes
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Won’t Start
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Lid or door won’t close
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Drum Not Spinning
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Touchpad does not respond
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Leaking
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Will Not Start
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Heat stays on after drum has stopped
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Customer:
ANTHONY from CHESHIRE, CT
Parts Used:
WP3392519
Difficulty Level:
Easy
Total Repair Time:
15 - 30 mins
Tools:
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
Dryer was working, but no heat.
First I unplugged the dryer, then removed the back panel, this exposed most all of the wiring and I could see the heater coils.
Not knowing what the problem was I started looking at the coils and could not see any broken parts.
So then checked the thermal fuse for continuity I removed the two wires from it with a small pair of needle nose pliers, it was held in place by two screws, once they were removed the fuse came out easily, I checked continuity with a volt meter placing the meter on X1 Ohms and could not get a reading.
I replaced with a new one and put it all back together the way I took it apart.
Then I plugged it in and it worked first time, I now have warm dry clothes.
2963 of 3335 people found this instruction helpful.
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Customer:
Dana from Grassvally, CA
Parts Used:
WP3392519
Difficulty Level:
A Bit Difficult
Total Repair Time:
More than 2 hours
Tools:
Screw drivers
No heat but would run otherwise
Cleaning the lint out of the whole machine took quite a bit of time--it was everywhere. Underneath the lint trap was a collection that ultimately ruined the thermal fuse where it restricted the air flow considerably.

Ascertaining the problem was the most time consuming part.

The actual repair was quite simple and did n't take but 15-20 minutes.
874 of 946 people found this instruction helpful.
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Customer:
Steven from East Norriton, PA
Parts Used:
WP8577274, WP3392519
Difficulty Level:
A Bit Difficult
Total Repair Time:
More than 2 hours
Tools:
Nutdriver, Socket set
Dryer overheated, blew out thermal fuse
I started to repair this and got busy and ended up calling a repair service -- that was the first time. They repaired it for over $200 and said the cause was bad venting. I fixed the vent before using the fixed dryer but it blew again. So I ordered these parts and replaced them myself for a lot of savings. However, the dryer still ove rheated. Through lots of testing I found the root cause the repairman missed: The heating element had gotten so hot that the assembly holding it warped, hitting the element and shorting it. So a new element is on order. I still needed the parts I ordered here but the overall repair ended up more complicated and expensive. I was disappointed a paid repair person left without further diagnosis. If he had unplugged the vent and checked the heat on the exhaust vent (as I ended up doing) it would have been obvious more than a new thermal fuse/thermistor was necessary. Instead I wasted over $200 on his visit. So my advice is if you're at all handy, repair this yourself. The dryer has a service manual inside the front toe board that walks you through most diagnostics and tests. However, it took a little more than that for me to discover the heating element problem. This was a very dangerous situation that could have easily led to a fire, yet not found by a trained technician!
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