7MMGDX655EW1 Whirlpool Dryer - Instructions

First I unplugged the dryer, then removed the back panel, this exposed most all of the wiring and I could see the heater coils.
Not knowing what the problem was I started looking at the coils and could not see any broken parts.
So then checked the thermal fuse for continuity I removed the two wires from it with a small pair of needle nose pliers, it was held in place by two screws, once they were removed the fuse came out easily, I checked continuity with a volt meter placing the meter on X1 Ohms and could not get a reading.
I replaced with a new one and put it all back together the way I took it apart.
Then I plugged it in and it worked first time, I now have warm dry clothes.

Cleaning the lint out of the whole machine took quite a bit of time--it was everywhere. Underneath the lint trap was a collection that ultimately ruined the thermal fuse where it restricted the air flow considerably.

Ascertaining the problem was the most time consuming part.

The actual repair was quite simple and didn't take but 15-20 minutes.

First removed front and drum to check gas valve and igniter. No gas, no ignition. Checked power to devices; none (check hot line to ground, not to neutral.). Removed back of control panel looking for a relay or something. Found none, but did find a wiring diagram. That is where the site really came in handy. Studied wiring diagram together with the exploded view and pictures of each part to come up with a troubleshooting plan. Took the back off as well as a cover inside. Tested each part with meter, again going to ground and not across the device. Of course, the final device before the gas valve, a one time thermal fuse, was the bad part. At first assumed just a bad part. Later wondered if fuse did it's job and another part was bad. Ordered and installed new thermostat just in case. Put everything together after a complete cleaning and everything is fine so far. Not a particularly hard job because I had the wiring diagram and access to parts select site. Would have been much harder without them. Took a long time because almost the entire dryer had to come apart. But it got a good cleaning because of it and found a couple of bucks in change to help offset the cost. Can't imagine what a service call would have cost.

Repair was very easy. We are in the internet age so I use it all the time to get info on how to repair any thing in the house including cars. This time it was my dryer. I typed up 'Kitchen Aid dryer has not heat'and pressed searched and PartSelect came up. Typed in the model number and looked up the comments on No Heat. They had pretty cool site that shows videos on how to repair this things too. Came to conlclusion that the THERMAL FUSE was the main problem. Ordered it and as well as the Igniter assy just to make sure and as well as save on the shipping just in case. Ordered on Sunday night and the shipped the next day. It arrived on Tuesday. Unfortunately had a little problem on the shipment. Called PartSelect and they are so awesome they shipped me new parts asap at no extra charge. Awesome Awesome! Parts came in Thursday and first installed the Thermal Fuse and BAAAM! problem solved. Did not need the igniter assembly. Now I have an extra part in storage.
To replace the Thermal fuse.
1. Disconnect Dryer from power outlet. Remove the bolts on the back panel with a 1/4" socket. I used power drill because it is much faster.
2. Locate the Thermal Fuse. Disconnect wires and remove the bolt. Slide it up and pull. Install the new one and reconnect the wires. Replace the panel and plug the dryer.

That solved my problem. It should solve yours too. The whole process was less than five minutes.

After looking on the website for advice I walked throught the simple steps of disassembling the front, removing the drum, removed the back, disconnected the wire harness. Then removed the blower housing in the back. The blower, mounted on the back side of the motor was very tight. I used a pipe wrench wedged in place and help by my 10 year old Grand-daughter while I used an adjustable wrench to turn the shaft on the front of the motor. Spun the blower off, removed the two clips holding the motor. Then reversed the process when I received the new motor. Care should be taken to avoid damaging the blower fan if a lot of pressure is required.

Replacement handle snapped in place very easily.

First I took the front of the dryer off then located the igniter. It only required removing two screws, removing old igniter, replacing with new igniter, and replacing the two screws.. While I was replacing the igniter I took the drum out and throughly cleaned the inside. Lucky me, I found 85 cents on the floor of the dryer. I am 65yrs old, married and mother of two.
This was easy to do and sure saved money. I reccommend others try to do repairs for themselves and using PartSelect was less expensive too.

After unplugging the dryer,I removed 2 bolts on the back top of the dryer, then removed the two screws in the lint box area. I used a screw driver to help force the top panel of the dryer up. When open, I removed the top screws that held the front and side panels together. I then lifted the front panel up and away from the dryer, so there would be room to take the drum out. I removed the belt from the pulley (located under the drum) and slid the drum out. I removed the old seal, cleaned up the drum and the inside of the dryer, then glued the new seal on. After the glue was dry, I put the drum back in (with the belt on the drum), put the belt back on the pulley and proceeded to put the dryer front back on. Once the front was on, I put the top back on and replaced the bolts on the back of the dryer. I plugged it in and it is working great! By the way, before this, I had NEVER attempted to repair a dryer before and I am female. If I could do it, so can anyone else willing to try :)

The (front) bearing and seal are not metal parts but a fabric and and mesh like material. It is somewhat like a fabric belt made to hold up a pair of trousers. The belt sits in a channel that goes around the door on the inside of the front panel. To get to the combination bearing/seal you remove two screws that are located under the cover of the lint trap. These have to be removed to lift the top. Then using a putty knife or screw driver you must pop the top (which snaps down on plastic clips) at the front corners. The top lifts up and folds back on hinges. The front is attached to the sides by one screw on each side near the top. A nut driver will remove then easily. Once the 2 screws are removed lift the front panel about 2 inches to disengage the front panel from the clips that hold the front attached to the sides near the bottom. When you remove the front panel the dryer drum will literally fall out so you want to get hold of it before pulling the front panel away so it isn't damaged and and doesn't damage the gas burner assembly which is under the drum to the left side. The drum is very light. I supported it with an empty shoe box while the front was off.
Once the front is off you'll see the bearing/seal on the inside of the front panel and it will be obvious how to remove the old one and place the new one. There are three pegs on the front panel that receive the three holes in the fabric bearing/seal. The seal will stay in place while you remove the shoe box and put the front cover back on. The drum fits over the seal like a lid on a jar and just slides on the fabric when the drum rotates. Low tech but the drums slides easily on the bearing material and seems to last a long time.

I also did the rear dryer seal. This is similar to the front. To do this you follow the procedure above but to get to the real seal you will have to remove the drum. It will fall out on its own if the front panel is removed. The drive belt goes around the drum. It is about 3/8th of and wide and just wraps around the drum without any teeth or channels or anything. Let the belt fall to the bottom as you lift the drum forward and out of the cabinet. The drum is light. Just put it on the floor and strip off the old rear seal which is glued on. It too is fabric. Clean up the drum a little and fit the new seal on the drum. Once the seal is on the drum you can lift the edge of the fabric seal and glue the fabric flange to the drum. This becomes pretty obvious once you have the seal on the drum. If you put the glue on the drum first you will make a mess. Put the seal on properly and the lift the edge to apply the adhesive all the way around. The adhesive sets enough in a hour or so. Put the drum back in and replace the front panel. Don't forget the drive belt. It goes around the drive motor that is located on the bottom of the dryer on the right, around or over an idler pulley (my older model does not have a idler wheel but rather a bracket with a "slide" that the belt runs over that keeps sufficient tension on the belt to drive the drum. If your belt falls off the motor and the idler pulley falls out it may be confusing how the belt goes in. My idler bracket is held in slots on the bottom of the cabinet merely by the tension of the belt - no screws or anything. I suggest that you put the belt around the drum first, then the drive motor. You will have slack in the belt and it becomes a little more obvious how the idler pulley (which is mounted on spring steel) goes in and takes up that slack and keeps modest tension on the belt. The rubber side of the belt goes against the drum, the leathery side is the outside.

actually i found your site before i even looked at the dryer,thats how i knew to check for the thermal fuse.
I ordered the part and it was on my door in 36
hours,pulled the two wires off the old fuse and installed the new,put the back cover on and it has been working ever since,thanks ( your in my bookmarks)

After looking at the schematic to see what was in line with the motor, I found the fuse as the first item. I pulled the fuse out and used a multimeter to ohm out the fuse. Upon using the meter I found that the fuse was bad. I typed into Google my part number that was on the fuse and the PartSelect Website came up as one of the choices to pick from. When the part arrived approx. two days later I installed the fuse by first unplugging the dryer and then removing the bottom panel and removing the fuse from the exhaust by using a small 1/4 inch wrench and pulling out the old fuse. I installed the wires on the new fuse and re-installed and put the 1/4 inch screw back in. I started the dryer after plugging it back in and it worked like it should have. Thank you for the part and I have recommended your website to other people already.

First it was a process of alimination to find out why it was dropping out. After the problem was found it was just a matter of replacing the holding coil on the gas valve. Thank you fred kenney sr

My 14 year old son did it as I supervised! Pulled the dryer out on a dolly, unpluged the dyer, removed 9 hex head screws to remove the back cover, removed and replaced the thermal fuse, located next to the exhust outlet, set the cover back on, moved the dryer back in with the dolly. I had the thermal fuse over nighted to me for a total price of $35, figured I saved at least $150 on a service call by Whirpool.

took the old one off and pooped in the new one!

First my son and I moved the dryer to the garage as we believed there would be a lot of lint possible during disassembly. Used a flat head screwdriver to pop the top from dryer housing. Then removing 2 nuts to facilitate the removal of the front of the dryer. The drum was able to be removed to diagnose the offending drum roller wheel. The drum roller wheel has experienced a failure as it had melted off of the metal spacer. Removing it and replacing with the new one was pretty easy. We then used a shop vac and an air hose to clean out all the lint, coins, paper clips and lost jewelry. Surprisingly there was not a single sock in there. Put it all back together in reverse order and plugged it in and now spins like a dream.