Models > WED5100HC3

WED5100HC3 Whirlpool Dryer

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This thermal cut-off kit includes a genuine OEM replacement high limit thermostat and a fuse. The thermostat is a safety device used to prevent the dryer from overheating, and the fuse serves as a bac...
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This genuine OEM part is a screen door grille for your dryer. This piece serves as the top cover for the lint filter. If the grille has become cracked or damaged, clothing may become snagged, or marks...
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This part is the replacement motor pulley for your dryer. The motor pulley allows the dryer belt to run straight while the dryer is operating. If your motor pulley is damaged, your dryer may not tumbl...
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This kit includes 3 screws and 3 nuts.
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This terminal and wire kit helps repair electrical connections in your dryer by replacing worn or damaged wires. It includes wires, screws, and wire nuts, but the terminal block is sold separately. Us...
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Sold individually.
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$49.29
Help your dryer work more efficiently with this replacement lint screen housing, designed to hold the lint screen securely inside the exhaust duct. It prevents lint from escaping into the drum or vent...
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NUT
$6.51
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$7.60
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$21.82
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Common Problems and Symptoms for WED5100HC3

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Not Heating
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Too hot
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Noisy
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Drum Not Spinning
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Marks left on clothes
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Won’t Start
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Customer:
John from Cedar Rapids, IA
Parts Used:
279973
Difficulty Level:
A Bit Difficult
Total Repair Time:
30 - 60 mins
Tools:
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
Flashing E1 code for a bad thermistor
I replaced the thermistor earlier, but the code was still flashing. I noticed the heater terminals were charred and pretty well covered in carbon. So, I replaced the heater, the thermostat and thermal fuse and replaced the 3/8" spade terminals on the heater wires. (These are hard to find - most electrical spades terminals are .250. A lso, I crimped and soldered these for a connection with the lowest resistance possible). After all that, the code still flashed! I let the explatives fly, calmed down, and ran the control board test. (This is done by pressing "more time" "less time" "more time" "less time" in succession.) The control board was passing all the tests, but the thermistor test, and the only thing is in this circuit is the thermistor, the wires, the connector to the control board, and some circuit on the control board that involves a few resistors and the "brain" chip. So, I checked the terminals at the thermistor, the wires up to the control board and the connector at the board. The control board connector was fairly dust encrusted, so I unplugged it, cleaned the control board terminals and sucked away all the lint and dust. Finally, I carefully removed earch crimp terminal from the Molex connector (the white female connector) and cleaned and bent them to yield a better connection to the terminals on the control board. I put it all back together, and thus far it is working fine.
19 of 28 people found this instruction helpful.
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Customer:
Stephen from Andalusia, AL
Parts Used:
279973
Difficulty Level:
Easy
Total Repair Time:
30 - 60 mins
Tools:
Nutdriver, Wrench (Adjustable)
Dryer not heating
Open breaker and ensure power was off. Checked heating components for continuity.Found thermal fuse had an open circuit.Replaced High limit thermostat and thermal fuse.Now is a good time time check for free flowing vent piping.I discovered mine was crimped below the floor and caused lint build up and obstructing the flow which could have led to the thermal fuse blowing.I replaced the vent piping as well.My wife says the dryer works better now than it ever has.
14 of 25 people found this instruction helpful.
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Customer:
kevin from RENTON, WA
Parts Used:
279973
Difficulty Level:
Easy
Total Repair Time:
30 - 60 mins
Tools:
Screw drivers, Socket set
Dryer does not heat but blows only cold air
Pulled the lower front panel located thermal switch pulled 2 wires removed 2 small bolts pulled switch out set meter to ohms scale and tested between the 2 terminals it hailed the test I reversed for installation of new switch
6 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
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