Models > MED5630HC2

MED5630HC2 Whirlpool Dryer

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Diagrams for MED5630HC2

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When connected to electricity the dryer heating element glows red hot and generates heat. When air is blown over it, it heats the air which is used to dry the clothes. The heating element fits inside ...
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Often referred to as a dryer belt tension pulley wheel, this idler pulley is an OEM approved replacement part for a variety of dryer models. The idler pulley puts tension on the drive belt, and if the...
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This drum support roller is sold individually. Most dryers require two. The tri-rings are included. This is a drum support roller for a dryer. It is a genuine replacement part. The part includes the d...
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This dryer repair kit consists of five commonly replaced dryer parts: one multi-rib belt (part #661570V and measures 93 1/2 inches long), four drum support rollers, one idler assembly, nine tri-rings,...
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$21.95
This is a single dryer drum belt that measures 93.5 inches. The belt rotates the dryer drum and is a common wear part that can become brittle over time. It can also stretch and change shape, so keep t...
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This small but mighty OEM piece is called a tri-ring and is used to support the drum roller shaft and the idler pulley shaft in your dryer. It helps to provide a tight seal between components by evenl...
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The internal-bias thermostat, also know as a thermistor, is used to prevent the dryer from overheating. It does this by monitoring and controlling the temperature of the inside of the dryer drum. If ...
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It is important for your dryer to be properly leveled, as an unleveled one can cause excessive vibration and noise when operating, may not drain properly, and can cause excessive wear on various parts...
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This is an authentic OEM replacement moisture sensor for your dryer. The sensor detects the moisture levels in your clothing while the appliance is operating, and once the appropriate level has been r...
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This heating element connection wire kit is a genuine OEM replacement for your electric dryer. The kit is used to connect the thermostat to the heater element. The kit comes with a yellow wire nut and...
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This part seals the drum to prevents air from escaping. This includes silicone rubber adhesive.
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This 18 ml bottle of white appliance touch-up paint is used to cover scratches or marks on your appliance. The white touch-up paint can be used on refrigerators, microwaves, ranges, clothes dryers, an...
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Common Problems and Symptoms for MED5630HC2

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Noisy
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Too hot
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Door won’t close
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Not Heating
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Marks left on clothes
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Lid or door won’t close
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Drum Not Spinning
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Won’t Start
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Touchpad does not respond
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Customer:
Alan from Brooksville, FL
Parts Used:
WP3387747
Difficulty Level:
Easy
Total Repair Time:
30 - 60 mins
Tools:
Socket set
Burned out heater element
Remove the kick plate from the bottom of the dryer by sliding a putty knife along the top edge to release the plastic clamps, one on each side about 4" in from the edges. The kick plate folds out and down. You will see the heat shield on the right, held in by one hex head screw. Remove screw and heat shield. The element is positioned in a n open-front housing and is fastened to the left side of the housing by two hex head screws, located on the "rail" of the element and right near the two wires. Remove the hex-head screws that hold the element in place and disconnected the two wires by pulling them out by hand or with needle nose pliers. The only difficulty here is the cramped working area...I recommend a stubby socket driver for these two screws. Most of this I had to do by feel because I could not see the screw heads. Once the screws are out and the wires have been disconnected, slide the old element straight out toward you. You may need to disconnect a small plastic hose located to the left front of the element, but this hose just pulls right off. Vacume the dust & lint build-up out of the whole area, wipe out the element housing and clean up the whole underside of the dryer prior to installing the new element. Installation is reverse of removal. It also might be a good opportunity to clean out your exhaust duct and the vent to the outside. (Never use the aluminum foil-accordian-type duct.) If the exterior dryer vent has any kind of screen over it, remove it and get rid of it. Screens collect lint, lint builds up and burns out elements.
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Customer:
jason from HOLDEN, MA
Parts Used:
4392067
Difficulty Level:
Really Easy
Total Repair Time:
30 - 60 mins
Tools:
Socket set
very loud squeeling sound
The issue was the idler pulley. First I began opening up the front panel based on a youtube video but soon realized the model was slightly different and required a lot more items to remove. I saw the pulley in the back with nothing in the way so I put the front panel crap back on and removed the rear panel. There it was, very simple to re move and replace. I'm not looking forward to drum rollers though. Hopefully they're aren't as difficult as they appear.
67 of 68 people found this instruction helpful.
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Customer:
Jerry from Everett, WA
Parts Used:
280114
Difficulty Level:
Easy
Total Repair Time:
30 - 60 mins
Tools:
Screw drivers, Socket set
Rear tub seal failure
I removed the top cover and then the back cover, released the belt tensioner and removed the drive belt. Then slid the tub out of the unit and onto the back dack. Sanded the remnents of the old seal off. Wiped the tub lip with laquer thinner and applied the "fast" drying glue supplied with the kit. Installed the seal and re-assembled the unit...works fine
66 of 84 people found this instruction helpful.
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