Models > DG250KXW4

DG250KXW4 Westinghouse Dryer

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Diagrams for DG250KXW4

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$17.66
The drum belt, also known as a drive belt, is a rubber piece that wraps around the dryer drum, idler pulley, and motor pulley and is used to make the drum rotate. If you can hear the motor running, bu...
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If your dryer is noisy while tumbling, you may need to replace the drum glides. This genuine OEM part is found attached to the front panel of your dryer. It is used to reduce friction and allows the d...
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If your freezer will not defrost, or your fridge and freezer are too warm, there may be an issue with the defrost timer. This device helps to melt ice that builds up on the evaporator coils. It does t...
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$19.73
Clear, 120 Volt, 40 Watt.
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$62.67
This door catch is an authentic OEM replacement part for your dryer. This part holds the door strike and ensures that the door stays closed while your dryer is running. This prevents hot air or laundr...
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This coil ignition kit is used in dryers to open the gas valve when the dryer is on. This kit includes two coils. One is a two-wire secondary coil and the other is a three-wire booster coil. If your d...
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This filter collects lint as it passes through the dryer vent.
No Longer Available
$16.13
"Male" piece of a dryer door closing mechanism.
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Use this idler pulley assembly with gas or electric clothes dryer that has a flat dryer belt. ***Please NOTE: This part has been redesigned by the manufacturer and may not fit your appliance.
No Longer Available
This part senses the flame for heat allowing the gas valve to open.
In Stock
Used with dryers with a 27-inch drum.
On Order
$59.49
This part ignites the gas within the dryer. Be sure to not handle this igniter by the gray part as it is very fragile.
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Common Problems and Symptoms for DG250KXW4

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Noisy
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Fridge too warm
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Marks left on clothes
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Door won’t close
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Freezer not defrosting
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Freezer section too warm
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Will Not Start
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Leaking
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Fridge and Freezer are too warm
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Fridge runs too long
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Light not working
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Fridge too cold
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Freezer too cold
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Frost buildup
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Too warm
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Drum Not Spinning
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Not Heating
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Too hot
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Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
Customer:
William from Boise, ID
Parts Used:
5303937139
Difficulty Level:
Easy
Total Repair Time:
15 - 30 mins
Tools:
Pliers, Screw drivers
Drum glide wore down and caused close to get stuck between drum and front panel.
Unpluged dryer. Removed the top of dryer by pushing in a retaining clip on both sides of the front lip with a screw driver. Remove the two screws on both sides of front panel. These screws are square head or phillips #2. Unplugged the wiring harness to front panel (make sure power has been disconnected). Support drum and lean front pa nel away from dryer body. Front panel will pull off of tabs at bottom. The old drum glide is fiberous and hard to remove. I removed most of it with the pliers, but had to carefully scrape the balance of the glide off with the wood chisel. The adhesive that comes with the repair part has an acetone base, so I used acetone (or you could use nail polish remover) to remove the old adhesive. Once the acetone has dried, I applied an 1/8" snaking bead of adhesive to the front panel. There is more adhesive in the tube than you need so do not use too much. Make sure that you get adhesive as close to the base of the lower seal as you can. Follow directions on adhesive tube and then attach the glide. I let it set up for about 30 seconds. Place the front panel back on the tabs of the dryer. Carefully lift the drum an fit it on the front panel and insert the two screws holding the panel to the base. Reconnect the wiring harness and make sure it is not in contact with the drum. Check to make sure that all of the electrical connectors on the timer are still in place. Reassemble the dryer. Reconnect power.
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Customer:
Brett from Monticello, MN
Parts Used:
5303931775
Difficulty Level:
Easy
Total Repair Time:
15 - 30 mins
Tools:
Screw drivers
Dryer would heat initially then cool down
The top of the dryer was easily removed by prying the front up with a screwdriver then tipping it back and off of the mounting brackets. Then the front of the dryer was removed by unscrewing a single screw on each side that held the front to the side panels then pulling the front away from the dryer. Once the front was off, the coils we re easily accessible on the bottom left side. A metal bracket held the coils on and was somewhat tough to get the two screws removed on it as they were stuck, but once they were removed the coils easily came out and I was able to replace them in minutes. The whole job took 15-20 minutes and I now have a dryer that heats through the entire drying cycle.
95 of 108 people found this instruction helpful.
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Customer:
Tad from Lancaster, OH
Parts Used:
215846602
Difficulty Level:
Easy
Total Repair Time:
15 - 30 mins
Tools:
Screw drivers
Side-by-side .. freezer working, fridge not cooling
My freezer was frozen but my refrigerated side was not cooling, the temp was actually around 60-degrees. After inspecting i noticed no air was flowing through the vent from freezer side to fridge side. I removed everything from freezer and took the back wall panel off inside freezer section and immedietely noticed alot of ice on coils etc . After researching i found the defrost timer was not working and thus allowing frost and ice to build up on coils and block air flow. My defrost timer was located on the front bottom left behind kick panel, using a phillips screwdriver i removed 2 screws and then disconnected wire harness to the defrost timer. Then i inserted new defrost timer and connected wire harness and then put the 2 screws back in. My fridge is now working great and the ice build-up is gone and i am getting good air flow .. temps on fridge side are now between 32-34degrees. This was an easy project and saved me alot of money doing myself
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