Models > MGD4500MW0

MGD4500MW0 Maytag Dryer

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Diagrams for MGD4500MW0

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This multi rib belt is an OEM replacement part for a dryer. It attaches to the drum, idler pulley, and motor pulley, and is responsible for spinning the drum. Over time, the belt can become frayed, br...
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This thermostat is an OEM replacement part for a dryer. It is sold individually. It measures approximately 2-inches by 1.5-inches, is black and silver, and constructed of plastic and metal material. Y...
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This OEM kit comes with two ignition coils (one three-terminal boost/hold coil, and one two-terminal secondary coil). Usually only one of them burns out, but you should replace them as a set as both h...
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Sourced directly from the manufacturer, this OEM approved replacement handle is approximately 6 inches long, 2 inches wide, and is made of durable white plastic. This handle is used to open the dryer ...
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This is a genuine OEM replacement igniter kit for your gas-heated clothes dryer. The silicon carbide igniter is used to light the gas that creates the heat in order to dry your clothes. If your dryer ...
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This small but mighty OEM piece is called a tri-ring and is used to support the drum roller shaft and the idler pulley shaft in your dryer. It helps to provide a tight seal between components by evenl...
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This genuine OEM part is a radiant flame sensor for your gas dryer. It is used to determine when the temperature of the igniter is hot enough to ignite the gas. Once the igniter is hot enough, it allo...
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This motor fits most Whirlpool incorporated dryer brands before 1996. NOTE: Pulley is NOT available separately.
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This ten watt appliance light bulb is two inches tall. It is used with both washers and dryers.
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This is a genuine OEM replacement rear drum seal for your dryer. This seal is made of felt and comes with the adhesive required for installation. The purpose of the seal is to prevent hot air from esc...
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This OEM high-limit thermostat kit includes the thermal cut-off fuse and the high-limit thermostat. The purpose of this part is to cut-off power to the dryer when it overheats. Common indications that...
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The blower wheel is a squirrel cage type wheel whose purpose is to move the air through the room or appliance. The blower wheel spins on the motor shaft to blow air through the dryer drum and out through the exhaust.
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Common Problems and Symptoms for MGD4500MW0

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Noisy
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Too hot
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Drum Not Spinning
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Marks left on clothes
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Door won’t close
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Not Heating
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Heat stays on after drum has stopped
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Leaking
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Won’t Start
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Will Not Start
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Touchpad does not respond
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Customer:
Paul from Monmouth, IL
Parts Used:
341241, WP3387134, W10612022
Difficulty Level:
Easy
Total Repair Time:
1- 2 hours
Tools:
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
intermittant heat
First I shut off the gas supply and disconnected the dryer vent and unpluged the unit so you can access the rear of the dryer. Then I removed the rear cover. This is where you will find your thermostats and fuses. Holding the new part next to the one to be replaced I transfer the wires one at a time so as not to get them mixed up, then un screw the old part and install the new one. Insert a flat blade screwdriver under the top cover in the 2 front corners to unsnap it from it's clips, also at this time you need to remove the 2 screws that hold the upper part of the lint filter tube to the lid, then lift the lid to expose the drum ( I tilted the dryer back as far as the flex gas line would allow me to and rested the top lid against the wall without removing it, to many wires). Behind the front cover in the top right corner is the plug for the door switch,un-plug it and also there are 2 screws one in each corner. After that lift the front cover straight up and pull it away from the cabinet ( it has clips at the bottom to hold it in place). Reaching under the drum on the right side pull down on the belt tensioner and release the belt from the motor then you can remove the drum. Laying the drum down on it's front edge I removed the rear felt seal and took a piece of sand paper to rough up th old glue and clean off some of the felt that was still stuck to the drum. Following the directions from the seal package I put the glue around the edge of the drum and re-installed the new felt. This is a good time to clean out your dryer, while the glue sets up. A shop vac works the best, but be carefull not to suck up the money, it will help pay for the repair ( I found over a dollar in change ). At this time I also changed the coils on the gas valve, remove the 2 screws that hold the clamp and replace them one at a time. Re-install the drum with the belt on it, fold it and push it through the tensioner and put it on the motor pulley. rotate the drum to make sure that the felt is not kinked under itself, re-install the front cover bottom clips first, then the 2 screws and the plug for the door switch, pull down the lid and snap it in place, before installing the rear cover this is a good time to remove the rear cover to the lint chute and clean in there also ( it's easy to see why there are so many dryer fires). Re- install that cover and the rear cover and vent tube, turn your gas back on and check it for leaks ( even if you didn't disconnect it) plug your dryer back in and get busy catching up on the laundry that you haven't had a chance to do because your dryer broke, then smile and think about all the money you saved by doing this simple repair your self. Thanks Parts Select
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Customer:
Gary from Haverhill, NH
Parts Used:
279834
Difficulty Level:
Easy
Total Repair Time:
30 - 60 mins
Tools:
Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
Dryer ran but would not heat
PartSelect showed seven different possibilities why the dryer wouldn't heat. I removed the two screws to remove the bottom panel and turned the dryer on and noticed that the heating element that ignites the gas was working fine. This meant that it was not getting gas so it could be the gas valve or one of the two gas valve coils which are located on top of the gas valve. I borrowed my neighbor"s ohm meter and touched the two probes on the coils terminals to check for continuity and found that one of the coils read zero. I then took both of the coils out by removing two screws and tested each coil again. One coil read 500-850 and the other read zero. This meant that it was no good so I called for the part and received it in three days. I reassembled the parts and turned the dryer on and it fired up after a few seconds. It works as good as new. The part plus shipping was less than $30. My repairman would have charged me $150-$200. While the dryer was apart I gave it a good cleaning with a vacuum and a toothbrush in delicate areas. I also removed and cleaned the lint trap housing by removing two nuts. I didn't know much about gas dryers, but thanks to PartSelect I easily fixed it myself.
390 of 439 people found this instruction helpful.
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Customer:
andy from Bethesda, MD
Parts Used:
279834, 279834
Difficulty Level:
Easy
Total Repair Time:
30 - 60 mins
Tools:
Screw drivers
Dryer flame goes out after about 8-minutes from start and won’t work again until a 15-minute rest.
There was no problem with lint build-up within the dryer & the exhaust vent. I removed the gas cycling thermostat & thermal fuse from system & dryer still was not operating correctly. The radiant sensor & hi-limit thermostat both seemed to be operating correctly. That left either of the two coils as the culprits. I replaced both coils & the problem was corrected.
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