Models > 11060901990

11060901990 Kenmore Dryer

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This kit includes two door strikes, and three door catches, to service doors that have one or two catches. The strike is mounted on the body of the dryer, while the catch is mounted on the dryer door....
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When connected to electricity the dryer heating element glows red hot and generates heat. When air is blown over it, it heats the air which is used to dry the clothes. The heating element fits inside ...
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Often referred to as a dryer belt tension pulley wheel, this idler pulley is an OEM approved replacement part for a variety of dryer models. The idler pulley puts tension on the drive belt, and if the...
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If the lint filter in your dryer has become damaged and unusable, it is important to replace it as soon as possible. The filter traps lint and other debris from your laundry, keeping it out of your ai...
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This drum support roller is sold individually. Most dryers require two. The tri-rings are included. This is a drum support roller for a dryer. It is a genuine replacement part. The part includes the d...
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This genuine OEM kit includes a high limit thermostat and a thermal cut-off fuse for your dryer. The thermostat has a limit of 250 degrees Fahrenheit, and the fuse has a limit of 360 degrees Fahrenhei...
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This small but mighty OEM piece is called a tri-ring and is used to support the drum roller shaft and the idler pulley shaft in your dryer. It helps to provide a tight seal between components by evenl...
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This washer is 3/4 inches in diameter.
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It is important for your dryer to be properly leveled, as an unleveled one can cause excessive vibration and noise when operating, may not drain properly, and can cause excessive wear on various parts...
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If your dryer is not tumbling, will not start, or is excessively noisy while operating, there may be an issue with your idler pulley. The idler pulley works by maintaining a constant tension on the dr...
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This is an authentic OEM replacement moisture sensor for your dryer. The sensor detects the moisture levels in your clothing while the appliance is operating, and once the appropriate level has been r...
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This heating element connection wire kit is a genuine OEM replacement for your electric dryer. The kit is used to connect the thermostat to the heater element. The kit comes with a yellow wire nut and...
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Common Problems and Symptoms for 11060901990

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Noisy
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Door won’t close
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Too hot
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Marks left on clothes
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Not Heating
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Will Not Start
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Will not drain
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Will not agitate
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Door Pops Open
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Drum Not Spinning
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Lid or door won’t close
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Burning smell
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Won’t Start
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Spins slowly
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Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
Customer:
Terri from Saint Augustine, FL
Parts Used:
279570
Difficulty Level:
Really Easy
Total Repair Time:
Less than 15 mins
Door Catch part had fallen out,/ was missing
Received your parts, Popped them both right into place, Even though only one side needed to be replaced, I wanted them to match up. It was amazing how easy this was. My husband was quite impressed I had ordered these rather then look for either a new or used dryer from some other source.
672 of 730 people found this instruction helpful.
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Customer:
Alan from Brooksville, FL
Parts Used:
WP3387747
Difficulty Level:
Easy
Total Repair Time:
30 - 60 mins
Tools:
Socket set
Burned out heater element
Remove the kick plate from the bottom of the dryer by sliding a putty knife along the top edge to release the plastic clamps, one on each side about 4" in from the edges. The kick plate folds out and down. You will see the heat shield on the right, held in by one hex head screw. Remove screw and heat shield. The element is positioned in a n open-front housing and is fastened to the left side of the housing by two hex head screws, located on the "rail" of the element and right near the two wires. Remove the hex-head screws that hold the element in place and disconnected the two wires by pulling them out by hand or with needle nose pliers. The only difficulty here is the cramped working area...I recommend a stubby socket driver for these two screws. Most of this I had to do by feel because I could not see the screw heads. Once the screws are out and the wires have been disconnected, slide the old element straight out toward you. You may need to disconnect a small plastic hose located to the left front of the element, but this hose just pulls right off. Vacume the dust & lint build-up out of the whole area, wipe out the element housing and clean up the whole underside of the dryer prior to installing the new element. Installation is reverse of removal. It also might be a good opportunity to clean out your exhaust duct and the vent to the outside. (Never use the aluminum foil-accordian-type duct.) If the exterior dryer vent has any kind of screen over it, remove it and get rid of it. Screens collect lint, lint builds up and burns out elements.
492 of 575 people found this instruction helpful.
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Customer:
Wesley from Boyds, MD
Parts Used:
WP3387747, 279769
Difficulty Level:
A Bit Difficult
Total Repair Time:
30 - 60 mins
Tools:
Screw drivers, Socket set
Dryer not heating
Our dryer is 8 years old and had been slowly taking longer and longer to dry clothes, to the point that I was ready to purchase a new one. When the dryer stopped heating completely, I removed the bottom panel and found that the heating element was no longer working. I checked online and found this website. The top two recommended fixes f or this issue was to replace the heating element and/or thermal cut-off kit (two sensors). I chose to purchase both, delivered to me very quickly (two days). I figured for $80 you can't go wrong. Here's the procedure I followed:

On my particular model, the back does NOT come off and all of my repairs had to be made via the front, bottom panel.

(1) disconnected 6 wires (3 pairs) from the heating element and two thermal sensors
(2) removed entire heating element 'sleeve" which contained both the heating element AND the two sensors. The space is way too tight to try and do this any other way (and I highly recommend this method to save a ton of time and frustration.)
(3) vaccummed out the entire inside of the dryer, clearing all lint and debris, including tons of lint creating a blockage, thus slowing the ability to dry over the years
(4) replaced sensors and heating element
(5) installed heating element & Thermal sensors back inside and reconnected all wires
(6) tested dryer to ensure that heating element lit up and produced heat - it worked beautifully!

Besides fixing the heating issue, cleaning out the clogged lint pipe at the back of the dryer and wall have made the old dryer new again. It's working better than ever!
294 of 332 people found this instruction helpful.
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