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1105817830
1105817830 Kenmore Dryer
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$11.73
This is a genuine OEM 40-Watt replacement light bulb that is compatible with various types of appliances. It has a frosted glass bulb with a standard metal socket base, making it easy to screw and uns...
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$23.69
This 3 prong lid switch is used for washing machines that do not have a tub light.
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$5.42
This is a multi-use screw and can be used on a variety of appliances. The measurements of the screw are: 8/18 x 3/8. *Please note: the screw is sold individually. Refer to the manual provided by the m...
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Cycling themostats continually cycle the heating element off and on to maintain a constant inner temperature within the dryer. This particular cycling thermostat can be adjusted between 135 and 155 de...
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This dryer door cable is intended for use with spring part number PS343422. This cable is compatible with many of Whirlpool/Kenmore's brands of gas and electric clothes dryers.
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Common Problems and Symptoms for 1105817830
Viewing 9 of 9Noisy
Fixed by these parts
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Will Not Start
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Will not drain
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Too hot
Fixed by these parts
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Door won’t close
Fixed by these parts
How to fix it
Will not agitate
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Burning smell
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Won’t Start
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Spins slowly
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How to fix it
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- Customer:
- George from Rochester Hills, MI
- Parts Used:
- WP230131
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Dryer door cable broken
1. Remove the lint filter. Then remove 2 screws at the lint filter housing.
2. At the back of the dryer, remove 2 screws that restrain the hinges for the dryer top. Do NOT remove the hinges.
3. Remove the front lower access panel. It snaps at the top and hinges at the bottom. It can be slipped off the hinges.
... Read more />
4. Remove 2 screws at the bottom of the main front panel
5. The front of the dryer top is held in place by two plastic clips. Use a flat blade screwdriver (with a rag wrapped around the tip to minimize paint damage) to pry the top up at each front corner. Then tilt the top up to just past vertical. You now can see the top of the spring that is connected to the door cable.
6. Open the dryer door. Use a putty knife to pry up the plastic plug that holds the cable in place at the door. Remove the old cable from the door and insert the new one. Be sure the cable end without a hole goes into the dryer door. Replace the plastic plug.
7. Feed the new cable through the main front panel and close the door.
8. Loosen but do NOT remove two screws that hold the main front panel to each side panel. Tilt the bottom of the front panel out about 2 inches.
9. Working through the gap between the main front panel and the side, hook the spring into the hole in the cable end.
10. Working through the open top and the gap on the side, move the spring+cable up to the top. Pass the upper end of the spring through the rectangular hole in the top of the main front panel and hook the end into the small hole there.
11. Repeat for other cable as needed.
12. Reassemble all parts. You may need to hold the top of the drum up as you move the main front panel back into place. Install the main front panel lower screws before tightening the upper screws.
2. At the back of the dryer, remove 2 screws that restrain the hinges for the dryer top. Do NOT remove the hinges.
3. Remove the front lower access panel. It snaps at the top and hinges at the bottom. It can be slipped off the hinges.
... Read more />
4. Remove 2 screws at the bottom of the main front panel
5. The front of the dryer top is held in place by two plastic clips. Use a flat blade screwdriver (with a rag wrapped around the tip to minimize paint damage) to pry the top up at each front corner. Then tilt the top up to just past vertical. You now can see the top of the spring that is connected to the door cable.
6. Open the dryer door. Use a putty knife to pry up the plastic plug that holds the cable in place at the door. Remove the old cable from the door and insert the new one. Be sure the cable end without a hole goes into the dryer door. Replace the plastic plug.
7. Feed the new cable through the main front panel and close the door.
8. Loosen but do NOT remove two screws that hold the main front panel to each side panel. Tilt the bottom of the front panel out about 2 inches.
9. Working through the gap between the main front panel and the side, hook the spring into the hole in the cable end.
10. Working through the open top and the gap on the side, move the spring+cable up to the top. Pass the upper end of the spring through the rectangular hole in the top of the main front panel and hook the end into the small hole there.
11. Repeat for other cable as needed.
12. Reassemble all parts. You may need to hold the top of the drum up as you move the main front panel back into place. Install the main front panel lower screws before tightening the upper screws.
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- Customer:
- Kenneth from Wilmington, IL
- Parts Used:
- W10820036
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 1- 2 hours
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
Lid closes, switch wouldn't turn on machine.
Used toothpick for a year to push switch acctuator far enough to engage switch. Broke my foot and found time to order part thru PartSelect. Went from cast to boot and received part 2 days after ordered. Had difficulty with foot and getting to switch. Went back into PartSelect and figured out how to dis-assemmble panels thru the diagrams.
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Time on my job doesn't, just that their service and expertise that is available to everyone is there to use. Broken bones or not, I will always get my parts and advice from PartSelect. Thanks to PartSelect.
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- Customer:
- Glen from Plano, TX
- Parts Used:
- W10820036
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Washer would fill up, wash, then stop
I deduced the lid switch was the problem.
I removed the two screws holding the control panel on. Pulled the control panel back.
Disconnected the ground wire of the lid switch.
removed the two top clamps that hold the panel to the top of the machine.
Pulled back the casing (outside of the washer) and placed ... Read more it on it's side on the floor. Here I could reach the switch. Removed old, installed new and reversed the process.
The part that gave me the biggest problem was setting the casing back on to the frame. You have to slide the front part in at the bottome, then lean back the rest of it.
I removed the two screws holding the control panel on. Pulled the control panel back.
Disconnected the ground wire of the lid switch.
removed the two top clamps that hold the panel to the top of the machine.
Pulled back the casing (outside of the washer) and placed ... Read more it on it's side on the floor. Here I could reach the switch. Removed old, installed new and reversed the process.
The part that gave me the biggest problem was setting the casing back on to the frame. You have to slide the front part in at the bottome, then lean back the rest of it.
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