Models > 1106708611

1106708611 Kenmore Dryer

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This is a genuine OEM 40-Watt replacement light bulb that is compatible with various types of appliances. It has a frosted glass bulb with a standard metal socket base, making it easy to screw and uns...
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This kit includes two door strikes, and three door catches, to service doors that have one or two catches. The strike is mounted on the body of the dryer, while the catch is mounted on the dryer door....
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This is a rear drum support roller kit for your dryer. The 2 rollers come with 4 tri-rings, and 1 palnut. We recommend that you replace both rollers at once. This kit stabilizes the drum cylinder, whi...
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The idler pulley is found in your dryer and provides tension to the belt in order to rotate the drum. If your clothes are taking a long time to dry, the machine is noisy while operating, or the dryer ...
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This heating element is a genuine OEM replacement part for your electric dryer. This element carries 5200W and 240V. A controlled electrical current passes through the coils, and the heat that is prod...
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This motor fits most Whirlpool incorporated dryer brands before 1996. NOTE: Pulley is NOT available separately.
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This black actuator spring with white rubber tip is used for both dryer doors and washer lids.
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The blower wheel is a squirrel cage type wheel whose purpose is to move the air through the room or appliance. The blower wheel spins on the motor shaft to blow air through the dryer drum and out through the exhaust.
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This is a multi-use screw and can be used on a variety of appliances. The measurements of the screw are: 8/18 x 3/8. *Please note: the screw is sold individually. Refer to the manual provided by the m...
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$17.93
This seal comes with the adhesive backing.
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This part is the replacement single front panel clip for your dryer. It is made of metal and is approximately 2 inches long and ¾ inch wide. The front panel retainer clip is what holds the front panel...
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Includes high temperature adhesive.
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Common Problems and Symptoms for 1106708611

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Noisy
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Door won’t close
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Marks left on clothes
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Door Pops Open
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Fixing
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Drum Not Spinning
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Won’t Start
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Lid or door won’t close
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Not Heating
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Will Not Start
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Customer:
Terri from Saint Augustine, FL
Parts Used:
279570
Difficulty Level:
Really Easy
Total Repair Time:
Less than 15 mins
Door Catch part had fallen out,/ was missing
Received your parts, Popped them both right into place, Even though only one side needed to be replaced, I wanted them to match up. It was amazing how easy this was. My husband was quite impressed I had ordered these rather then look for either a new or used dryer from some other source.
672 of 730 people found this instruction helpful.
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Customer:
Bill from Morristown, TN
Parts Used:
WP4391960
Difficulty Level:
Easy
Total Repair Time:
15 - 30 mins
Tools:
Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
Dryer quit heating. Suspected heating element was open
Unplugged the 220 volt source. Disconnected the vent line from the back of the drier. Removed the six screws holding the back panel with a 1/4 inch nut driver. Tipped the drier up at a 45 degree angle against the wall to give better access to the inside. Removed the screws holding the two thermostats to the side of the heater box and laid them aside. Disconnected the two red power lines to the heater element. Removed the large screw at the top of the heater box and removed the flexible bracket holding the heater box, then lifted the heater box up and away from the drier. Removed the one screw holding the heater element inside the heater box and pulled out the old heating element. The old element was open as found using an ohmeter on the two main terminals. Threw away the old element. Removed the new heating element from the box and slid it into the heater box making sure to align the terminal bracket with the hole in the heater box for the reinstallation of the mounting screw. Tightened this screw. Remounted the heater box to the two mounting slots and reinstalled the flexible mounting bracket to the top of the heater box and installed and tightened the large screw holding this bracket. Cut off and removed the old electrical push-on terminals from the two red power wires for the heater element. These were discolored and oxidated from the conducted heat over the years of operation. Using the supplied short red leads with push-on terminals already installed, I wire tied these new leads to the existing red power leads and pushed them onto the heater element terminals. Rechecked the soundness of the twisted wire connections to make sure they were tight. Replaced the back panel and reinstalled the six 1/4" screws with the 1/4' nut driever. Reinstalled the driver vent line and tightened its holding ring. Slid the drier back into position on the floor. Checked the level and readjusted the leveling legs for a steady floor stance. Reinstalled the 220 volt power connecter and set the controlls for a drying cycle. Let the drier run for aproximately 1 minute and then checked the air temperature inside the drier. IT WAS NOW PRODUCING HOT AIR. Project completed successfully and I was now a HERO in my wifes eyes. Absolutely no technical problems encountered. Just remember, unplug the drier before starting ANY repairs. To forget this COULD RUIN YOUR DAY.
289 of 322 people found this instruction helpful.
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Customer:
Melody from North Las Vegas, NV
Parts Used:
279570
Difficulty Level:
Really Easy
Total Repair Time:
Less than 15 mins
Door wouldn't latch.
I can't believe I waited so long to find this part and do this. I got the package very fast, opened it, took the piece to my dryer and popped it into place with my fingers. It worked perfectly! this took all of two minutes and saved me from having to hold the dryer door closed with a stick. Thank you, thank you!!!
202 of 282 people found this instruction helpful.
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