Models > JDE1000A

JDE1000A Jenn-Air Dryer

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This multi rib belt is an OEM replacement part for a dryer. It attaches to the drum, idler pulley, and motor pulley, and is responsible for spinning the drum. Over time, the belt can become frayed, br...
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This kit comes with three separate thermal fuses and is usually used with clothes dryers that have a fan mounted on the motor shaft. Included within this kit is the high limit (Limit: 258) the gas hig...
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This is a multi-use screw and can be used on a variety of appliances. The measurements of the screw are: 8/18 x 3/8. *Please note: the screw is sold individually. Refer to the manual provided by the m...
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Included in this rear drum support roller kit are 4 screws, 1 spacers, 2 washers, 2 retaining rings, 2 rear rollers, and 2 cylinder support shafts. *** Note: Per manufacturer this kit has been upd...
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This blower wheel clamp is less than an inch long and is used for some clothes dryers to hold the blower wheel firmly in place. This green clamp is made of metal.
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This wheel has a deep D-shaped shaft receptacle. The spring clamp is not included with this part.
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$7.60
This screw is sold individually.
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This blower wheel is suitable for some clothes dryers of the 10 and earlier series. Manufactured to fit a 1/2 inch motor shaft, this blower wheel is 3-1/8 inches deep. The diameter of the wheel is 7-1...
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This high limit/safety thermostat is used on many gas and electric clothes dryers. It is made of metal, and is almost two inches long. With this thermostat, a dryer's heating element will cut out if t...
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Depending upon your model, this seal can be used on either the front or rear drum. The hi-temp adhesive is sold separately.
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This part works in conjunction with the blower wheel.
No Longer Available
Questions and Answers

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Common Problems and Symptoms for JDE1000A

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Will not tumble
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Noisy
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Will Not Start
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No heat or not enough heat
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Takes too long to dry
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Too hot
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Shuts off too soon
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Heat stays on after drum has stopped
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Pumps but will not spin
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Marks left on clothes
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Will not agitate
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Touchpad does not respond
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Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
  • Customer:
    Ronald from Fredericksburg, VA
  • Parts Used:
    LA-1053
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
Electric dryer would not heat - Thermal fuses - $25 fix - I love DIY
1. Unplug dryer from power outlet
2. Lift dryer top from front (hinged in rear). Just friction holding top down. Use flat scewdriver wrapped in cloth to help lift.
3. Locate heating element - rear top behind drum
4. Unplug red wires to the high limit thermal fuse
5. Unplug red wires to the heating element
6. Unlug white wires to the high limit fuse
7. Remove high limit thermal fuse
8. Remove heating element
9. Remove high limit fuse
10 Clean heating box
Installation is reverse order but do the following first!
Clean lint trap - Remove front of dryer
1. Unplug white door switch wires. inside front top right
2. remove two screws securing the front of dryer - inside front top left and top right. Front of dryer is hinged at bottom
3. Clean all the lint you can find. If you have never cleaned out the lint, there might be a lot and the cause of over heating (shorting fuse life). Add to your yearly things to do list.
4. While your at it check the alignment of the plastic glides the drum sits on.
5. Also check the foam gasket between the fan housing and lint trap. Mine was off a bit. Realigned with doubled sided tape.
207 of 226 people found this instruction helpful.
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  • Customer:
    Brianna from Littleton, CO
  • Parts Used:
    LA-1044
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Socket set
Dry stopped heating - still had good air flow
I was about to purchase a new dryer because of the age of my dryer and not wanting to hire someone to fix it. After a little web research, I saw several do-it -yourself stories indicating this was a very easy repair.

This was an extremely easy repair and it save me lots of $$:
(1) Disconnected power
(2) Opened the top of the dryer
(3) Disconnected wires to temperature sensor.
(4) Used a 1/2" socket wrench with extension and a drill to remove 2 screws holding down the temperature sensor
(5) Removed 1 screw holding down the heating element.
(6) Removed wires connected to heating element and pulled out old element.
(7) Reassembled new element.
(8) Turned on empty dryer for 30 minutes to burn off smell from the new element.

Worked like a charm!
197 of 223 people found this instruction helpful.
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  • Customer:
    Michael from San Antonio, TX
  • Parts Used:
    341241
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers, Wrench set
broken tumbler belt
1. Removed the screws from the lint catcher
2. Removed the bolts from upper rear of dryer
3. Pried off the dryer top from the front (it rests on rear hinges)
4. Disconnected dryer door wiring
5. Removed bolt from inside upper front corners; removed front panel (be careful: the edges are sharp and the tumbler will fall when it loses support)
6. Removed broken belt and lint from interior parts; removed tensioner (which had fallen out of place). Note: The newer models have a tensioner pulley; my older model had a smooth semicircle that was confusing at first glance
7. Flipped dryer onto its back (for easier reinsertion of new belt and tumbler)
8. Placed new belt on tumbler; reinserted tumbler
9. Inserted new belt through tensioner, inserted tensioner "legs" into grooves on floor. Note: The belt will pull the tensioner upright when it's inserted properly (which isn't obvious at first)
10. Made sure belt and tumbler seal were properly installed
11. Replaced parts in reverse order
The process took over an hour because I couldn't figure out how to insert the belt through the tensioner. The trick is to insert the folded belt through the tensioner and onto the motor pulley. If I had to do it again, it would take about 30 minutes (including cleaning lint)
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