Models > IED4300SQ0

IED4300SQ0 Inglis Dryer

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Manuals & Guides for IED4300SQ0

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The dryer thermal fuse, also sometimes referred to as the thermal cut off or temperature fuse, is a 2 by 1/2-inch, white, plastic safety mechanism that halts the flow of electricity to the motor circu...
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This multi rib belt is an OEM replacement part for a dryer. It attaches to the drum, idler pulley, and motor pulley, and is responsible for spinning the drum. Over time, the belt can become frayed, br...
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Sourced directly from the manufacturer, this heating element is an OEM approved replacement part for a variety of dryers and is sold individually. It measures approximately 10.5 inches long, 7.5 inche...
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This thermostat is an OEM replacement part for a dryer. It is sold individually. It measures approximately 2-inches by 1.5-inches, is black and silver, and constructed of plastic and metal material. Y...
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This kit includes two door strikes, and three door catches, to service doors that have one or two catches. The strike is mounted on the body of the dryer, while the catch is mounted on the dryer door....
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This thermal cut-off kit is for a dryer and is sourced directly from the manufacturer. The thermal cut-off is a safety mechanism that is designed to trip if your dryer is at risk of overheating, to pr...
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This is an authentic drum support roller kit for 29-inch-wide dryers. It includes 1 belt, 2 roller wheels and an idler pulley. The parts in this kit allow the dryer to tumble properly by supporting th...
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This is a rear drum support roller kit for your dryer. The 2 rollers come with 4 tri-rings, and 1 palnut. We recommend that you replace both rollers at once. This kit stabilizes the drum cylinder, whi...
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This is a manufacturer-approved high-limit thermostat for your dryer. This part includes one high limit thermostat with a terminal extension arm. It is a safety mechanism that prevents your dryer from...
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The idler pulley is found in your dryer and provides tension to the belt in order to rotate the drum. If your clothes are taking a long time to dry, the machine is noisy while operating, or the dryer ...
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This small but mighty OEM piece is called a tri-ring and is used to support the drum roller shaft and the idler pulley shaft in your dryer. It helps to provide a tight seal between components by evenl...
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It is important for your dryer to be properly leveled, as an unleveled one can cause excessive vibration and noise when operating, may not drain properly, and can cause excessive wear on various parts...
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Common Problems and Symptoms for IED4300SQ0

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Noisy
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Door won’t close
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Not Heating
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Too hot
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Drum Not Spinning
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Won’t Start
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Marks left on clothes
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Heat stays on after drum has stopped
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Touchpad does not respond
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Door Pops Open
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Will Not Start
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Lid or door won’t close
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Running With Door Open
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Customer:
ANTHONY from CHESHIRE, CT
Parts Used:
WP3392519
Difficulty Level:
Easy
Total Repair Time:
15 - 30 mins
Tools:
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
Dryer was working, but no heat.
First I unplugged the dryer, then removed the back panel, this exposed most all of the wiring and I could see the heater coils.
Not knowing what the problem was I started looking at the coils and could not see any broken parts.
So then checked the thermal fuse for continuity I removed the two wires from it with a small pair of needle nose pliers, it was held in place by two screws, once they were removed the fuse came out easily, I checked continuity with a volt meter placing the meter on X1 Ohms and could not get a reading.
I replaced with a new one and put it all back together the way I took it apart.
Then I plugged it in and it worked first time, I now have warm dry clothes.
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Customer:
Gadi from Irvine, CA
Parts Used:
279838
Difficulty Level:
Really Easy
Total Repair Time:
30 - 60 mins
Tools:
Nutdriver
Dryer motor runs, but no heat
To reach the heating element you only need to open the back cover of the dryer (about 8 nut-head screws). Remember to disconnect the power.

To remove the heating element there are two small nut-head screws. Remove the two electric wires. Then you can pull the heating element away.

You can check the heating element wi th an ohm-meter or visually inspect it to see if the heating element spiral wire is broken.

Don't hurry to dispose the old element. My model includes a small electric safety part. You'll need to transfer it to the new heating element (that comes without it)..

Good luck.
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Customer:
Ray from Denton, TX
Parts Used:
WP691366, 341241
Difficulty Level:
Easy
Total Repair Time:
30 - 60 mins
Tools:
Screw drivers, Socket set
Dryer tub belt broke
Removed the two screws that attatch the lent channel to the top of the dryer, then lifted the top of the dryer by pushing in on the two locking tabs located at the front , left and right , corners of the dryer top with a small flat head screw driver. The top of the dryer will fold back out of the way. At this point I removed the two 1/4 i nch screws that are located on the inside of the dryer front left and right corners that hold the front panel/door to the two side panels. Now I was able to lift the front panel up and set it to the side. The bottom of the front panel that contains the dryer door that I just removed was held on the bottom by two clips that slide into slots on the front panel and did not require any removal to disconnect the bottom of the front panel, just pull up on the front panel. Since the tub was held in place by floating on a seal at the back of the dryer and a seal on the front panel , which I just removed the tub is now free floating except for the two alignment roller wheels at the bottom of the tub. It is easier if you lay the dryer on its back at this point with front of the tub pointing up. I pulled the tub out and cleaned the years of built up lent and removed all the pieces of the old , destroyed, belt. Note, the belt tentioner is located at the front of the motor which on the bottom right hand side. If your belt is broke like mine the tensioner may/will fall to the back of the dryer when you tilt it back, but do not worry. Once the dryer was cleaned up I put the tub back in place , still on its back and made sure the two alignment rollers were in place and rolled freely when the tub was turned by hand. Another note, my original belt tensioner did not have a rolling wheel that the belt rode on , but was a semi-circle smooth surface that the belt remained in constant friction with when the dyer was running, so I made sure the replacement tensioner I ordered with my new belt did have a rolling wheel that the belt would ride on, which I believe will reduce wear and extend the belt life. The new belt came with a diagram of the belt and tensioner routing which was helpful. Note: do not take the tensioner wheel off/apart when trying to route the belt. Follow the instructions routing diagram. The tensioner is held in palce by inserting the bottom back half into the slot in the bottom floor of the dryer making sure it is aligned with the belt pully on the shaft of the dryer motor. The dryer is still on its back side. Now, it was easier for me to route the belt around the center of the tub, following the marks from the original belt, and hold in in place in a few spots with masking tape and then route it thru the tensioner and onto the front pully of the motor. Make sure you have the grooves of the belt against the tub and the grooves are aligned with the pully on the motor. Now you can remove the masking tape that was holding the belt around the tub and spin the tub by hand watching the belt making sure it is not in a bind and is traveling around the motor pully , tensioner and tub freely. Make sure the tub is still sealed on the back side wall. As you turn the tub by hand you can adjust the belt by hand so that is following the original marks around the tub left by the orignal belt. Also double check the two alingment rollers and make sure they are spinning and on track. Now put the front panel with the door on by sliding it onto the two clips that are one the bottom at each side and put the two screws in that hold the front panel to the two side panels. Now stand the dryer back up and spin the tub by hand again making sure it has a good seal on the back side and on the front panel. Pull the top back down and put the two screws in that hold the lent channle to the top. I am not sure when the belt started failing on my dryer, but was amazed at how quiet it runs now. Guess I was use to the extra noise made by a dryer that was about to die. This was a cheap and easy repair and glad I did it myself.
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