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DLL2550PE Hotpoint Dryer - Instructions

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All Instructions for the DLL2550PE
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Customer:
Matt from La Belle, MO
Parts Used:
WE12X10014
Difficulty Level:
A Bit Difficult
Total Repair Time:
15 - 30 mins
Tools:
Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
dryer belt broke
first I took the dryer apart 1st thing i did was unplug the power supply (safety first) then I removed the top of the unit then removed the front cleaned all the lint from the inside of the cabinet I found the proper belt size on part select.com the next day I had my dryer belt delivered (which cost 1/3 the price of the local repair shop price)
then I placed the belt over the dryer drum and made sure it was in the general location it should be I then replaced the front cover and the top. then I removed the rear cover which was held on by six 5/16 sheet metal screws which gave me access to the drive pulley and belt tensioner the belt goes on by going under the tensioner then around the drive pulley
Then i rotated the drum by hand to make sure everything had clearance I then buttend everything up plugged it and started it up it workd fine and I figure Ill get another 8 years out of it
Thank you partselect.com
160 of 188 people found this instruction helpful.
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Customer:
Owen from Virginia Beach, VA
Parts Used:
WE17X10010, WE12X41
Difficulty Level:
Easy
Total Repair Time:
1- 2 hours
Tools:
Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable)
Dryer made excessively loud noise when running.
I initially opened the front of the dryer and noticed that the drum slides that the drum rides on in the front of the dryer were excessively worn. I then removed the drum and noticed that the plastic bearing that supported the drum in the rear was cracked and the washer(?) appered to be disintigrating. I ordered and replaced the drum slides and rear bearing. The dryer was still making too much noise. I ran the motor with the drum removed and realized that they motor was the remaining source of the excessive noise. I then ordered and replaced the motor with a new one and this solved the problem. Total cost was around $140. Note that when ordering a new motor, the instructions on the web site indicate that you need to order the motor pulley if your existing motor has a pressed on pulley. The new motor was a kit that came with the pulley included, and therefore the additional part was not needed, and had to be returned. The instructional videos and parts schematics on the web site were very helpful.
58 of 76 people found this instruction helpful.
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Customer:
Jeff from Seattle, WA
Parts Used:
WE4X444
Difficulty Level:
Easy
Total Repair Time:
15 - 30 mins
Tools:
Wrench set
Gas dryer heat would not come on
Unplugged dryer, opened lower panel. Loosened the bolt that holds igniter assembly to gas unit and removed old igniter. Put new igniter in the pinch clamp then (being VERY careful so as not to crack new part) replaced igniter assembly and tightened its bolt firmly. Voilà, ignition!
40 of 58 people found this instruction helpful.
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Customer:
Robert from Virginia Beach, VA
Parts Used:
WE4X197
Difficulty Level:
Really Easy
Total Repair Time:
Less than 15 mins
Tools:
Screw drivers
replqce bad switch
pried old switch assembly from front of machine with screw driver. removed 2 electrical connections. shorted terminals to verify problem. inserted wiring terminals to new switch. verified operation and then pushed switch assembly into machine opening.
30 of 33 people found this instruction helpful.
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Customer:
John from Grand Rapids, MI
Parts Used:
WE17X10010, WE12X41
Difficulty Level:
A Bit Difficult
Total Repair Time:
1- 2 hours
Tools:
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench set
main motor bearings frozen
Having recently replaced the heating elements and main bearing on the dryer I knew how to take the thing apart, getting to the motor was easy. However, the fan side of the shaft was longer than the original so I had to bend out the metal front panel where the fan is located so it would spin without grinding against the front of the dryer. That done, the rest was easy to finish, mounting bolts on the motor tightened, one last test before putting it back together and all was well. The dryer now works better than it has for a long time.
38 of 70 people found this instruction helpful.
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Customer:
Raymond from Vassar, KS
Parts Used:
WE18X26
Difficulty Level:
Easy
Total Repair Time:
30 - 60 mins
Had a lint filter that screen was all worn out
We ordered a new lint filter with white frame from Part Select. Had to take the dryer outside and blow all lint out that had accumulated in the dryer. We then vacumed everything out and brought back in house and put in new lint filter we ordered and used the dryer today and it works beautiful. Saved us from having to buy a new dryer. Thanks Part Select for having the filter we needed. Raymond Kampsen, Vassar, Ks.
16 of 16 people found this instruction helpful.
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Customer:
Pauline from South Portland, ME
Parts Used:
WE17X10010, WE12X41
Difficulty Level:
Easy
Total Repair Time:
More than 2 hours
Tools:
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Wouldn't start
Removed the front panel,tiped up the top panel ,removed the drum, drive belt,motor and exaust tube assembly. cleaned and vaccumed all lint from every were. Removed motor from fan blade and houseing. Reinstalled moter and pulley that came with the moter and fan blade. reinstalled all of the rest of the parts and plugedin the wires. once all back together pluged into outlet and turned on and prasto works great.
29 of 55 people found this instruction helpful.
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Customer:
John from Windham, NH
Parts Used:
WE12X10014
Difficulty Level:
A Bit Difficult
Total Repair Time:
30 - 60 mins
Tools:
Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
Drive Belt Replacement needs Drum Modification
To perform this repair (please see numerous descriptions on the web for generic belt replacement) I had to rivet two loose parts to the drum in order to reinstall the drum. Specifically, the loose metal disk and hot air shroud at the rear of the drum (near the rear berrings) made it impossible to realign the parts to reinstall the three torx bolts at the rear of the drum during reassembly. These two loose parts are positioned behind the drum (when looking inside the drum) i.e. between the drum and the rear berrings.

It was necessary to align the mounting holes in the drum, disk, and air shroud outside of the dryer itself and then to rivet them in place (making sure the smooth rivet head was INSIDE the drum as to avoid providing a rough edge where the clothes could catch during tumbling). Just press the 3 torx bolts through the holes to establish correct alignment. Be sure to install the rivets ouside of the contact area between the heat shroud and mounting plate. You should see an indented pattern on the heat shroud that you can use as a guide.

It was also helpful to make a black mark on one of the drum mounting holes (inside the drum) and its mate on the berring attachment plate - to help orient you when installing the drum with the 3 torx bolts. It only aligns one way - and making the marks will save you aggravation while your head is in the drum during reassembly. Loud swearing at this point only punishes your ears because, after all, your head is in an acoustically punishing echo chamber - and the echoes make it seem as if the dryer is actually cussing YOU and your incompetence out...

I hope this helps someone else save some time in reinstalling the drum.

One additional pointer: you must remove the lower plate on the rear side of the dryer to wrap the belt around the tensioner pulley and motor drive. The belt wraps, from right to left, first around the motor pulley and then up and to the left around the tensioner pulley. Just place the belt around the motor pulley, and then pull the tensioner pulley toward you and leftward until it clears the belt, then push toward the front of the dryer - and let the tensioner contact the belt on the right side of the tensioner pulley.

And finally, the ribbed side of the belt makes contact with the drum and the motor pulley. The smooth side of the belt is in contact with the tensioner pulley. Good luck, and may the choice words I used during the process be unnecessary for you... for you... for you!
18 of 25 people found this instruction helpful.
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Customer:
Sam from Durham, PA
Parts Used:
WE12X81
Difficulty Level:
Really Easy
Total Repair Time:
15 - 30 mins
Tools:
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
Dryer became very noisy
--Removed bottom rear panel (right under where 220 line comes in) which exposed belt and idler pulley.
--Relieved tension on belt by moving idler arm and moved belt off idler puller (just to the side).
--Removed e-clip.
--Removed old pulley and washers.
--Installed new thick plastic washer first, then pulley, then e-clip.
--Relieve tension and place belt back on new pulley.
--Replace back panel.
-Fini!
13 of 14 people found this instruction helpful.
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Customer:
bob from shoemakersville, PA
Parts Used:
WE12X10014
Difficulty Level:
Easy
Total Repair Time:
30 - 60 mins
Tools:
Screw drivers, Socket set
old belt broke
my two twin boys Mike and Curtis age 14 did the repare they toke of the front of the dryer then the top put the belt around the drum then put the top and front back on then went to the back and removed the panel and put the belt on the pulley then set the tension wheel then put the back cover back on
the repair was easy I watched to make sure they did it right and did not have to tell them how I am very proud of them they do great work
finding the part was easy and it was here the next day after I ordered it and it was only sent 3 to 5 work days. You guys have a great web site and fast shipping thanks for the good work!
12 of 15 people found this instruction helpful.
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Customer:
anton from saint charles, IL
Parts Used:
WE4X444
Difficulty Level:
Really Easy
Total Repair Time:
15 - 30 mins
Tools:
Nutdriver, Wrench (Adjustable)
no ignition
1. remove the access door , bottom left side
2. unplug the power cord and shut the gas valve off, next to the union fitting
3. unplug the electrical connections from the gas valves and igniter.
4. open the union with the wrench, right hand thread
5. remove the two nut driver screws on the burner lip
6. remove the burner and carefully spread the igniter fingers and remove the igniter
7. check the igniter, make sure it is the problem.
8. install the new igniter and carefully insert the burner into position.
9. reverse the disassembly , turn on the gas valve and check for leaks with soap bubbles. if you have a leak, shut off the gas valve and repair it or leave the gas valve off and call a repairman.
10. plug in the power and turn on the dryer the igniter should glow white hot and the burner should light.
11. if the dryer does not work you have other problems or you did not plug the electrical connections into the correct places,
12. call the repairman or buy a new dryer
11 of 14 people found this instruction helpful.
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Customer:
Mark D. from Kittery, ME
Parts Used:
WE18X26, WE12X10014, WE12X81
Difficulty Level:
Difficult
Total Repair Time:
More than 2 hours
Tools:
Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench set
Damaged belt
Disconnect and clean all duct work.

Note: Lint is combustable, save yourself the disaster of a dryer fire.

Position dryer face down on floor.
Access rear of unit, vacume clean.
Upright unit.
Access front of unit by removing sheet metal screws above door to float the lid.
Using screwdriver gently seperate drum at top from housing. Hold open with wedges.
Thread new belt through hole a foot or so.
Tape belt to drum near drum center.
Rotate drum until belt is fully around.

Note: Taping new belt to drum will assist you in reassembling. Belt will not fall off drum when unit is face down on floor.

Remove wedges and resecure sheet metal screws to top of unit.
Place the unit face down again.
Ensure belt clears all front mounts.

Note: gentaly pull drum from mount and slide belt between.

Remove old belt and idler pully.

Note: replace the idler pully with every new belt it will save you time later.

Install new idler pulley and rethread in new belt.
Rotate drum to access and remove tape attaching new belt to drum.
Upright unit and test.
Re-attach access panels, reposition unit and
re-attach duct work.
Done
11 of 15 people found this instruction helpful.
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Customer:
Bruce from Taylor, PA
Parts Used:
WE12X10014
Difficulty Level:
Easy
Total Repair Time:
30 - 60 mins
Tools:
Nutdriver, Socket set
Broken Dryer belt
Easy as 1-2-3. I took off the top hinge screws in order to lift up the top of the dryer.

I then took off the front dryer piece with the door intact. The lint filter was in the front door section.

I released the wiring clips to the front of the dryer and lowered the front of the dryer down gently. there is enough slack with the wiring if you disconnect the wirre clips.

I removed the old broken belt. ThenI gently lifted thr dryer drum enough to slid in the new belt with the ridges down. Look for the old belt line (worn area on the drum) and slip the belt up on the drum to that point.

Then I replaced the wiring with clips and put the front of the dryer back together.

Going around to the lower back of the dryer, I unscrewed the back plate where the exhaust comes out. It was 8 screws with a socket.

Once the back was off, I pulled the dryer pully to the right and fed the reamider of the belt through both pulleys ensuring that the ridged side was on the correct side of the pulley. The pylleys match the ridges on the belt. I rleased the tension on the movavle pulley and it was done.

All I had to do was button the back up and do a "dry run" I quick have the drum a half roation from inside the drum with the door open. Then it was all gravy. I was done and saved myself a good deal of money. Look on the net for pics to make thing easier for you. There are people out ther who will NOT charge you for this info.
9 of 9 people found this instruction helpful.
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Customer:
alfred from copperas cove, TX
Parts Used:
WE12X10014
Difficulty Level:
Really Easy
Total Repair Time:
15 - 30 mins
Tools:
Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
broken dryer belt
First i removed the lower rear inspection plate to see what the problem was.
next i removed the screws in the front top panel.
next i lift the top back,the rear hinges held it in place.
next i removed the bolts that held the front panel in place,but before i removed the panel i removed the wires that were connected to the front elements and disconnected then,
next i removed the front panel,then i place the new dryer belt over the dryer drum,but first you have to rise the drum up a little to get the belt under it.
next i put all the front panels back in place,make sure you reconnect the wires that you removed earlier.
next i moved to the back panel, there i position the belt over the dryer drum,then i place the belt over the motor drive pulley, then i pull down the tension bar roller to the left and place the belt over it.Then i replace the rear panel in place.plug in the power core and turn it on. finished. After over 35 years this is the first time i had to replace the belt,matter of fact this is the first time i had to replace anything on this dryer, washers will that is a different story. but the dryer runs great maybe for another 30 +years LOL.
11 of 15 people found this instruction helpful.
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Customer:
James from Sylacauga, AL
Parts Used:
WE12X10014
Difficulty Level:
Really Easy
Total Repair Time:
15 - 30 mins
Tools:
Nutdriver
Dryer Belt Broke
Removed the rear access panel (8 - 10 bolts), checked the pullys. Opened the dryer door, removed 4 allen screws at top and lifted the top of the dryer (like a hood on a car). Removed a screw (phillips) on each side (inside) pulled open the front and worked the belt around the drum. Placed belt onto pullys, plugged in checked for proper rotation of drum then unplugged and installed screws and bolts. - Fairly easy, saved a bunch from a service call. I also found 15+ years of lint inside the dryer. Vacumed and cleaned the inside -it even dries faster! Sorry Honey - No new dryer this year - Now can I go hunting?
9 of 10 people found this instruction helpful.
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All Instructions for the DLL2550PE
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