Models > PSXH43EV0WW

PSXH43EV0WW General Electric Dryer

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This ball-and-socket style bearing kit is used in your dryer to support the rear of the drum as it tumbles through the dry cycle. The bearing attaches on the inside of the rear panel of the dryer cabi...
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If your dryer is noisy while tumbling, you may need to replace the drum glides. This genuine OEM part is found attached to the front panel of your dryer. It is used to reduce friction and allows the d...
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$46.38
This knob accepts a D-shaped shaft. Sold individually.
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$16.13
"Male" piece of a dryer door closing mechanism.
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No Longer Available
This kit includes 3 screws and 3 terminals.
On Order
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$242.38
This dryer timer is used to control the unit's cycles by regulating the length of time that power is directed to each setting.
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This part includes the blower wheel, housing and cover. These 3 parts are not available separately. Must order full assembly.
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$10.12
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Common Problems and Symptoms for PSXH43EV0WW

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Noisy
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Marks left on clothes
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Door won’t close
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Customer:
Frank from Boyertown, PA
Parts Used:
5303281153
Difficulty Level:
Easy
Total Repair Time:
15 - 30 mins
Tools:
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Loud Squeaking
1. Unplug dryer from outlet
2. Using Lg. flat screwdriver, pry under the front edge of the top and release two spring tabs
3. Lift up top and tilt back out of your way
4. Unscrew two phillips scews on inside of front panel
5. Lift up and out the front panel. Two spring clips at bottom.
6. Rlease tension on drum be lt at the motor. Access panel at rear of dryer.
7.Unscrew 3 screws from inside, center rear of drum.
8. Remove drum through the front of the dryer. You may have to spread the sides apart a little bit for it to fit
9. Lift up on the rear drum bearing to remove it from the bearing retainer. ( U shaped plastic socket)
10. unsrew 2 screws and remove the bearing retainer, ground ball. Ball retainer is on outside of dryer.
11. Vacuum everything--duct, blower, lint trap, ect.
12. Intall new bearing retainer and grounding ball, an assistant is helpful at this time, one to hold ball retainer on rear of dryer, one to screw it in from the inside
13. reassemble remainder of parts in reverse order.
333 of 349 people found this instruction helpful.
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Customer:
William from Boise, ID
Parts Used:
5303937139
Difficulty Level:
Easy
Total Repair Time:
15 - 30 mins
Tools:
Pliers, Screw drivers
Drum glide wore down and caused close to get stuck between drum and front panel.
Unpluged dryer. Removed the top of dryer by pushing in a retaining clip on both sides of the front lip with a screw driver. Remove the two screws on both sides of front panel. These screws are square head or phillips #2. Unplugged the wiring harness to front panel (make sure power has been disconnected). Support drum and lean front pa nel away from dryer body. Front panel will pull off of tabs at bottom. The old drum glide is fiberous and hard to remove. I removed most of it with the pliers, but had to carefully scrape the balance of the glide off with the wood chisel. The adhesive that comes with the repair part has an acetone base, so I used acetone (or you could use nail polish remover) to remove the old adhesive. Once the acetone has dried, I applied an 1/8" snaking bead of adhesive to the front panel. There is more adhesive in the tube than you need so do not use too much. Make sure that you get adhesive as close to the base of the lower seal as you can. Follow directions on adhesive tube and then attach the glide. I let it set up for about 30 seconds. Place the front panel back on the tabs of the dryer. Carefully lift the drum an fit it on the front panel and insert the two screws holding the panel to the base. Reconnect the wiring harness and make sure it is not in contact with the drum. Check to make sure that all of the electrical connectors on the timer are still in place. Reassemble the dryer. Reconnect power.
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Customer:
Arthur from Grand Prairie, TX
Parts Used:
134101400
Difficulty Level:
Really Easy
Total Repair Time:
30 - 60 mins
Tools:
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
Terminal Block Melts when power cord connector is left loose by install crew.
1) Removed Top Dryer Cover (pushed 2 compression clips on front side 1" from top and 2" in from each side) to gain access to terminal block in rear.
2) Removed 2 screws over terminal block cover and 2 screws holding bad terminal block in place. Removed 3 screws holding bad power cord,
3) Removed good terminal connectors from bad terminal block and reinstalled them in the new terminal block.
4) Cut dryer wire from bad terminal block connector and soldered (optional) them to the new terminal block connector. Installed this connector into the new terminal block.
5) Installed new terminal block in dryer with 2 screws.
6) Installed new power cord on new terminal block ensuring contacts were tight and cord had pull guard properly installed. Reinstalled terminal block cover with 2 screws.
7) Reinstalled Dryer Top Cover.
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