DCSR473EV1AA General Electric Dryer - Instructions

The end repair was very simple and took minimal effort. The time and difficulty was all in the testing. I disassembled the dryer and removed the drum and then hard wired each thermo-fuse to determine where the fault was. After test all of those I was stumped. When I opened the door the light would not come on so I assumed it was a power fault closer to the source. However after all of my testing I couldn't find anything wrong. I then removed the light bulb and realized it was burned out which led me to the door switch being the fault. I removed the switch and soldered the three wire together and the dryer started right up! All I had to do was order a new $15 part, unsolder the wires and plug them in. Would have been so much simpler if that light bulb hadn't of been burned out causing me to over think my diagnosis. This was my first major appliance repair and I did it with only the help of the parts diagram provided on the website.

Doing some simple troubleshooting with the volt-ohm meter I determined that the door switch was failed.

The replacement door switch restored the motor circuit keeping my dryer in action.

Removed case parts to expose internal wiring. Vacuumed up various types of mouse debris and plugged hole they were using. Ordered terminal block to replace the one that melted while sparks were flying. Replaced power cord with one I had in my basement from some other appliance that died a while ago. "Hey honey, ya know those old parts I saved..." :) Now it is heating to capacity and no spark-show! Oh yeah, the part I ordered from Partselect.com was delivered to my door the next day!!!!! Wow!

First unplug dryer to prevent electrical shock. To remove the front of the dryer, open the door in top left and top right corners is a machine screw. They can be removed with a Phillips screw driver. Lift the top slightly and let front fall forward about 6 inches, lift slightly. Two wire will be connected to the switch in the door. remove the wires and squeeze the tabs on both sides of the switch and push it out. Push new switch in to replace old switch and reassemble.

I first unplugged the unit, opened the top, disconnected and took off the control panel, took off the front panel to determine the source of the squeaking noise coming from the Dryer. I saw that 3 of the 4 Front Drum Glides were gone and the drum had worn away significant amounts of plastic from the Top Bearing Assembly. I purchased the Top Bearing Assembly and a set of 4 Front Drum Glides. Disassembled the damaged parts and reassembled with the new replacement parts. The reassembly took less than 20 minutes. I plugged in the Dryer and viola! It works as good as new.

Pulled the unit all apart to replace the rear drum bearing. Also replaced the front bearing. Works like brand new. Easier then I thought

Unscrewed the old, screwed in the new making sure wires matched up same as before. Reset my breaker and works like new again.

When the dryer was installed last year by the dealer, one of the hot leads was not screwed down tightly. Over time the screw loosened and began to arc causing the plastic holding the screw to melt. When I moved the dryer the hot lead fell off and hit the terminal block cover shorting out the dryer. I was able to locate the exact terminal block I needed with their helpful dryer section diagrams. The part came in the time they said. I took off the old terminal block with just 2 attached screws. i kept track of which screws held the hot and neutral conductors and the ground before I removed them. I was then able to slide on the dryer wires and attached the home conductors. I put on the cover plate, turned on the circuit breaker and it worked.

Open the door and removed the part. Installed the new part and started the dryer.

Removed 2 screws to remove top. Removed 2 other screws to remove front. Removed old parts. Installed new parts. Reassemble all afetr cleaning duct work out.

Took the top of the dryer off by removing two philips screws in front. Removed two screws holding the front of the dryer on. Pulled the front out enough to reveal the worn drum slides. Replaced them. Reassembled.

First I removed the 2 screws that hold the lid down. Then I pulled the lid off. Then I removed the 2 screws that hold the front of the dryer in place. Then I lifted the drum a little and pulled the front cabinet out a little so I could see the drum slides. I removed the bad drum slides and installed the new ones. I then put everything back together and turned on the dryer. The squeeky noise was gone.

i first popped off the top of te dryer after removing the two screws in frotn when you open the door. I then removed the two screws holding the front together. after tilting the front out i was able to place the slides in without having to pull of the front entirely.

We removed the top of the the dryer and then removed the front part. Then put the traps in place, put the other parts of the dryer back on, and turned the dryer back on. Just as simple as that. No extra fees.

I ordered and replaced the front and rear bearings, including the slides that go on the front bearing. Most of this was un-necessary; replacing the slides would have been sufficient, and much easier to do. Two of the old slides were worn completely away.