Models > DPVH890EJ0WW

DPVH890EJ0WW General Electric Dryer

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Diagrams for DPVH890EJ0WW

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This single drum bearing slide attaches to the outer-most side of the bearing. This part is also sometimes referred to as a drum slide, drum glide, or drum pad. It provides support to the front of the...
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This single drum bearing slide is an OEM approved replacement part for dryers. It can also be known as a bearing drum slide, pad, or glide. The slides attach to the inner most slots on the front beari...
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If the lightbulb inside your dryer drum has burned out, this is an authentic OEM replacement. It is a 10W, 120V bulb that is sold individually. The bulb turns on when the dryer door is open and should...
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$11.38
This part helps to keep the door closed while the machine is running.
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Sold individually.
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TThe door strike for your dryer is mounted on the dryer frame that the door shuts onto. It fits into the door catch on the door and keeps the door closed. If the door strike is damaged or missing, the...
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This is a replacement O-ring for the drum bearing retainer on your dryer. The drum bearing is found at the back of the dryer drum. The O-ring is designed to create a seal on the drum bearing. The O-r...
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$32.49
A door switch is a simple on/off mechanism that prohibits the dryer from operating when the door is open.
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This felt attaches to the top bearing.
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The adjustable leveling screws on the bottom of your dryer can be screwed in or out to lower or raise the leg level. If one of the leveling screws is stripped, damaged, or missing, you may not be able...
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This part is the replacement high-limit thermostat or safety thermostat for your dryer. The high-limit thermostat is found on the upper right-hand side of the heater housing, and it cuts off power to ...
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This part is located on the housing for the heating element.
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Common Problems and Symptoms for DPVH890EJ0WW

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Noisy
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Marks left on clothes
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Door won’t close
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Leaking
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Too hot
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Customer:
Joshua from Dallas, TX
Parts Used:
WE4M415
Difficulty Level:
A Bit Difficult
Total Repair Time:
1- 2 hours
Tools:
Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
Dryer would not start
The end repair was very simple and took minimal effort. The time and difficulty was all in the testing. I disassembled the dryer and removed the drum and then hard wired each thermo-fuse to determine where the fault was. After test all of those I was stumped. When I opened the door the light would not come on so I assumed it was a pow er fault closer to the source. However after all of my testing I couldn't find anything wrong. I then removed the light bulb and realized it was burned out which led me to the door switch being the fault. I removed the switch and soldered the three wire together and the dryer started right up! All I had to do was order a new $15 part, unsolder the wires and plug them in. Would have been so much simpler if that light bulb hadn't of been burned out causing me to over think my diagnosis. This was my first major appliance repair and I did it with only the help of the parts diagram provided on the website.
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Customer:
robert from mount joy, PA
Parts Used:
WE1M1011, WE1X1192
Difficulty Level:
Really Easy
Total Repair Time:
Less than 15 mins
Tools:
Pliers
dryer door wont stay shut
pulled out door striker anddoor latch out with pliers and just pushed in new parts. works like new in under a min.
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Customer:
Gary from Spring Hill, TN
Parts Used:
WE1M462
Difficulty Level:
Easy
Total Repair Time:
30 - 60 mins
Tools:
Screw drivers
Rubbing/Squealing Noise While Drying, especially during cold weather
This part arrived at our house two days after I ordered it. I was stunned by how quickly it arrived.

Our dryer was making a very annoying squeaking/rubbing noise while drying and it became worse as the outside temps dropped (it's winter)...colder air cooling the exhaust line, causing metal in dryer to contract more.
... Read more >I called an appliance repair service and they said, "Honestly, your money is going to be better spent to just buy a new dryer. The bearings on these are a pain to replace."

Yeah, right.

I've never taken apart a dryer, but it took me less than 45 minutes to complete this repair and our dryer is back to normal. Total cost was $18, including shipping. A $300 savings versus buying a new dryer.

There is another description of the process for this part so I won't repeat it all.

I did it a little differently than most, namely I did not remove the dryer drum. I simply pulled it out about six inches (make sure and slide belt back as you inch out the drum). But first, unplug the dryer, then remove the top, then the front.

A Philips screwdriver will quickly remove the top of the dryer (two screws on inside front, where door closes) and the front face (two screws at top of front, inside face). Lift the front up about an inch and it is free. I had to disconnect a couple wires, just make sure you mark before you disconnect them.

With that done, the drum will pull straight toward you (out). Make sure and support the weight of the drum as you slide it out. I found no need to remove the drum.

At the rear inside of our drum, there are three Torx screws that hold the bearing assembly on. I have a pretty long reach so I just removed two of the Torx screws, then reached around the back of the drum while removing the third screw, to keep the bearing assembly from falling onto the floor behind the back of the drum.

This plastic bearing is held to the bearing shaft by a little o-ring. Just pull the o-ring off, slide off the old bearing, slide the new bearing on and replace the o-ring (if yours is broken, any home store will have one that will work as a replacement in their faucet repair department).

Reattach the bearing housing to the drum with the Torx screws (get all three started before you tighten any of them), slide the drum back in - make sure you slide the belt as you move the drum back in and support the weight of the drum so you don't bash the bearing assembly into the back of the dryer.

You're doing this part blind, but in a few seconds, you can guide the bearing back into the hole in the back wall of the dryer. It just slides into the hole, nothing fancy.

Put the front of the dryer back on. Then replace the top (I had to remove the five screws on top of the dial panel to give it some flex so the top would pop back into place without stressing the dial panel), plug the dryer back in, and fire it up.

45 minutes after this part arrived at our home, our dryer problems were gone. Now that I've done one, I could probably do it in 20 minutes the next time (it's that simple/easy). And we didn't need a new dryer. Makes me think I should have the appliance guy who told me we needed a new dryer to direct all of these "pain in the fanny" bearing replacements to me because I could charge someone $50 total for the repair and make good money.

Hope all this babble helps someone else who doesn't need a new dryer.
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