DBXR463GB1CC General Electric Dryer - Instructions

Just removed the screws at the top of the control panel cover and flipped it down. The switch was then in plain view and simply slid out ( after taking off knob)..placed wire terminals on new switch as I took them off old switch. Slid new switch back in place to lock it in then put control panel cover back into place and replaced screws. Your good to go.

The end repair was very simple and took minimal effort. The time and difficulty was all in the testing. I disassembled the dryer and removed the drum and then hard wired each thermo-fuse to determine where the fault was. After test all of those I was stumped. When I opened the door the light would not come on so I assumed it was a power fault closer to the source. However after all of my testing I couldn't find anything wrong. I then removed the light bulb and realized it was burned out which led me to the door switch being the fault. I removed the switch and soldered the three wire together and the dryer started right up! All I had to do was order a new $15 part, unsolder the wires and plug them in. Would have been so much simpler if that light bulb hadn't of been burned out causing me to over think my diagnosis. This was my first major appliance repair and I did it with only the help of the parts diagram provided on the website.

This part arrived at our house two days after I ordered it. I was stunned by how quickly it arrived.

Our dryer was making a very annoying squeaking/rubbing noise while drying and it became worse as the outside temps dropped (it's winter)...colder air cooling the exhaust line, causing metal in dryer to contract more.

I called an appliance repair service and they said, "Honestly, your money is going to be better spent to just buy a new dryer. The bearings on these are a pain to replace."

Yeah, right.

I've never taken apart a dryer, but it took me less than 45 minutes to complete this repair and our dryer is back to normal. Total cost was $18, including shipping. A $300 savings versus buying a new dryer.

There is another description of the process for this part so I won't repeat it all.

I did it a little differently than most, namely I did not remove the dryer drum. I simply pulled it out about six inches (make sure and slide belt back as you inch out the drum). But first, unplug the dryer, then remove the top, then the front.

A Philips screwdriver will quickly remove the top of the dryer (two screws on inside front, where door closes) and the front face (two screws at top of front, inside face). Lift the front up about an inch and it is free. I had to disconnect a couple wires, just make sure you mark before you disconnect them.

With that done, the drum will pull straight toward you (out). Make sure and support the weight of the drum as you slide it out. I found no need to remove the drum.

At the rear inside of our drum, there are three Torx screws that hold the bearing assembly on. I have a pretty long reach so I just removed two of the Torx screws, then reached around the back of the drum while removing the third screw, to keep the bearing assembly from falling onto the floor behind the back of the drum.

This plastic bearing is held to the bearing shaft by a little o-ring. Just pull the o-ring off, slide off the old bearing, slide the new bearing on and replace the o-ring (if yours is broken, any home store will have one that will work as a replacement in their faucet repair department).

Reattach the bearing housing to the drum with the Torx screws (get all three started before you tighten any of them), slide the drum back in - make sure you slide the belt as you move the drum back in and support the weight of the drum so you don't bash the bearing assembly into the back of the dryer.

You're doing this part blind, but in a few seconds, you can guide the bearing back into the hole in the back wall of the dryer. It just slides into the hole, nothing fancy.

Put the front of the dryer back on. Then replace the top (I had to remove the five screws on top of the dial panel to give it some flex so the top would pop back into place without stressing the dial panel), plug the dryer back in, and fire it up.

45 minutes after this part arrived at our home, our dryer problems were gone. Now that I've done one, I could probably do it in 20 minutes the next time (it's that simple/easy). And we didn't need a new dryer. Makes me think I should have the appliance guy who told me we needed a new dryer to direct all of these "pain in the fanny" bearing replacements to me because I could charge someone $50 total for the repair and make good money.

Hope all this babble helps someone else who doesn't need a new dryer.

First I figured out it was the start switch, I heard it make an electrical zap noise when I turned it and then the dryer didn't start. Once I had the part I simply removed the back from the dryer with a screwdriver (5 phillips head screws and 1 flat head). Then I twisted the old switch and it popped right out. Then I unhooked the wires and rehooked them to the new switch. Then I twisted the new switch into place, tested the dryer - IT WORKED! After that I just replaced the back cover and I was done. It was so quick! I am a 25 year old single mother with a 21 month and 4 month old. If I can do it on my own anyone can!

Doing some simple troubleshooting with the volt-ohm meter I determined that the door switch was failed.

The replacement door switch restored the motor circuit keeping my dryer in action.

Actually putting on a knob is self-explanatory. But wanted to say your company had the best price and reaction (delivery time). Great job by PartSelect!

Uhhhhhh.... Pulled knob off. Pushed new knob on. Took all of 5 seconds.

Unscrewed three screws on back and removed the switch and inserted the new one. There are 3 wires that clamp on the switch. Remember to unplug before doing this.

Real easy and great people to work with. Much cheaper than a technician repair.

Jim

I narrowed the porblem down to the rotary start switch, which is located in the top panel. It takes a hex wrench to remove the four screws holding the fron top panel in place and of course the knobs had to be removed. The switch rotates about a wuarter of a turn to come out. Label and remove the three connectors (3). It took about a week to get the replacement part which was slightly different than the original part. The good thing is it had the three prongs like the old part.. I hooked the connectors in the same configuration as the old switch, plugged the power cord back in to test and it started right up.

I received the part in record time.(2 days) I had a little trouble getting the case off of the dryer, but the part was real easy to install. I have changed these before with another company and their instructins were not good at all. Your instruction were relly easy to understand, step by step.

Thanks

Unplugged the dryer. Took the four star screws out of the console top. Pull consoled forward. Removed the knob. Pull up the locking tap on the old timer and twisted the timer counter clockwise. Timer easily detached from its mounting plate. Changed one wire at a time from the old to the new timer. Replaced timer and knob and screws.
Works great.

I replaced the old knob with a new one.

Unplug. Remove 3 knobs at front of panel. Remove 4 screws. Panel pulls forward. Remove green grounding wire to allow panel to come forward more. Pry up locking tab on switch. Turn switch to unlock from panel. Install new switch in reverse order of removal. Pull off each wire one at a time from old switch and attach to new switch. Reinstall panel and insert 4 screws. Done. My wife was so suprised that it actually worked and I fixed it in less than a day! Only took about 20 minutes. Thanks Part Select and the other repair stories that I read on your website.

Washer - remove 4 screws (phillips)on the back of the panel, slide it sidways slightly and pull forward to release. remove clip behind knob ( kinda like the clip on old car window handles) remove knob and dial. remove 1 nut on timer, rotate timer to release. installation is just as easy, but put clip onto knob first then just push onto dial shaft, it will click when on correct.

Dryer - remove 4 screws (phillips) on back of panel and remove same as washer. dryer switch will have a little cam lock on it just pull it off the plastic retainer and rotate switch. Remove wires one at a time and put on new switch so as not to wire wrong. reverse for re-assembly

I moved the dryer away from the wall and unplugged the electrical cord. I unscrewed the 4 screws on the top of the dryer to gain access to the Dryer Rotary Start Switch. I pulled the part out of its set location and carefully removed the clip on wires. I then carefully attached the wires to the exact locations on the new part and put it back into the proper location. I installed the screws, plugged in the power cord and moved the dryer back to its location for operation. I turned the circuit breaker back on. I failed to mention that I turned that off first of all. I set the dryer control to dry and turned the Dryer Rotary Start Switch to on and it worked immediately. This took about 12 minutes totally from start to finish.
Thank you for being there.
Sincerely, John Pewters