DSKS433EB1WW General Electric Dryer - Instructions
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- Customer:
- SAM from ROCK HILL, NY
- Parts Used:
- WH1X2721
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
Replaced broken START knob on dryer.
Slid off the old START knob, then pushed on the new START knob.
I created and printed a label on my computer for use with the time selector dial, which must be set at or beyond 10 minutes, before turning the START knob.
I made a label that says "Minimum" with a red arrow that points past the 10 minute setting on the time selector dial.
My teenage daughter was not setting the time selector dial, to a point past 10 minutes. When she turned the START knob, the dryer would not come on, because the time selector dial was not set past the 10 minute setting.
My daughter had continually twisted the START knob until it broke. I am hoping she will be able to see the large printed label I put on the dryer near the time selector, saying "Minimum" with a large red arrow pointing past 10 minutes.
I am very pleased that I was quickly able to find the exact matching START knob for my dryer and the exact same color, from PartSelect.Com
I created and printed a label on my computer for use with the time selector dial, which must be set at or beyond 10 minutes, before turning the START knob.
I made a label that says "Minimum" with a red arrow that points past the 10 minute setting on the time selector dial.
My teenage daughter was not setting the time selector dial, to a point past 10 minutes. When she turned the START knob, the dryer would not come on, because the time selector dial was not set past the 10 minute setting.
My daughter had continually twisted the START knob until it broke. I am hoping she will be able to see the large printed label I put on the dryer near the time selector, saying "Minimum" with a large red arrow pointing past 10 minutes.
I am very pleased that I was quickly able to find the exact matching START knob for my dryer and the exact same color, from PartSelect.Com
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- Customer:
- Frank from Irvine, CA
- Parts Used:
- WH1X2721
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
The inside of the Selector Knob was stripped
Removed the damaged knob and replaced it with the new knob. Very ease
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dryer door wont stay shut
pulled out door striker anddoor latch out with pliers and just pushed in new parts. works like new in under a min.
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- Customer:
- Anthony from Mpls, MN
- Parts Used:
- WE12X83
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 1- 2 hours
- Tools:
- Socket set
belt broken, pulley worn out
Removed 4 screws from top of control panel , remove 2 from back to lossen top of dryer. Removed rear lower access cover,6 screws on back of dryer exposing pulley and tensioner, remove broken belt and vaccuumed out a ton of lint , removed pulley and tensioner and replaced. From the front remove 4 screws and take off front of dryer, disconnecting several wires, again vaccumed out lint, lifter drum evough to replace belt. Reassembled
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- Customer:
- Gary from Spring Hill, TN
- Parts Used:
- WE1M462
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Rubbing/Squealing Noise While Drying, especially during cold weather
This part arrived at our house two days after I ordered it. I was stunned by how quickly it arrived.
Our dryer was making a very annoying squeaking/rubbing noise while drying and it became worse as the outside temps dropped (it's winter)...colder air cooling the exhaust line, causing metal in dryer to contract more.
I called an appliance repair service and they said, "Honestly, your money is going to be better spent to just buy a new dryer. The bearings on these are a pain to replace."
Yeah, right.
I've never taken apart a dryer, but it took me less than 45 minutes to complete this repair and our dryer is back to normal. Total cost was $18, including shipping. A $300 savings versus buying a new dryer.
There is another description of the process for this part so I won't repeat it all.
I did it a little differently than most, namely I did not remove the dryer drum. I simply pulled it out about six inches (make sure and slide belt back as you inch out the drum). But first, unplug the dryer, then remove the top, then the front.
A Philips screwdriver will quickly remove the top of the dryer (two screws on inside front, where door closes) and the front face (two screws at top of front, inside face). Lift the front up about an inch and it is free. I had to disconnect a couple wires, just make sure you mark before you disconnect them.
With that done, the drum will pull straight toward you (out). Make sure and support the weight of the drum as you slide it out. I found no need to remove the drum.
At the rear inside of our drum, there are three Torx screws that hold the bearing assembly on. I have a pretty long reach so I just removed two of the Torx screws, then reached around the back of the drum while removing the third screw, to keep the bearing assembly from falling onto the floor behind the back of the drum.
This plastic bearing is held to the bearing shaft by a little o-ring. Just pull the o-ring off, slide off the old bearing, slide the new bearing on and replace the o-ring (if yours is broken, any home store will have one that will work as a replacement in their faucet repair department).
Reattach the bearing housing to the drum with the Torx screws (get all three started before you tighten any of them), slide the drum back in - make sure you slide the belt as you move the drum back in and support the weight of the drum so you don't bash the bearing assembly into the back of the dryer.
You're doing this part blind, but in a few seconds, you can guide the bearing back into the hole in the back wall of the dryer. It just slides into the hole, nothing fancy.
Put the front of the dryer back on. Then replace the top (I had to remove the five screws on top of the dial panel to give it some flex so the top would pop back into place without stressing the dial panel), plug the dryer back in, and fire it up.
45 minutes after this part arrived at our home, our dryer problems were gone. Now that I've done one, I could probably do it in 20 minutes the next time (it's that simple/easy). And we didn't need a new dryer. Makes me think I should have the appliance guy who told me we needed a new dryer to direct all of these "pain in the fanny" bearing replacements to me because I could charge someone $50 total for the repair and make good money.
Hope all this babble helps someone else who doesn't need a new dryer.
Our dryer was making a very annoying squeaking/rubbing noise while drying and it became worse as the outside temps dropped (it's winter)...colder air cooling the exhaust line, causing metal in dryer to contract more.
I called an appliance repair service and they said, "Honestly, your money is going to be better spent to just buy a new dryer. The bearings on these are a pain to replace."
Yeah, right.
I've never taken apart a dryer, but it took me less than 45 minutes to complete this repair and our dryer is back to normal. Total cost was $18, including shipping. A $300 savings versus buying a new dryer.
There is another description of the process for this part so I won't repeat it all.
I did it a little differently than most, namely I did not remove the dryer drum. I simply pulled it out about six inches (make sure and slide belt back as you inch out the drum). But first, unplug the dryer, then remove the top, then the front.
A Philips screwdriver will quickly remove the top of the dryer (two screws on inside front, where door closes) and the front face (two screws at top of front, inside face). Lift the front up about an inch and it is free. I had to disconnect a couple wires, just make sure you mark before you disconnect them.
With that done, the drum will pull straight toward you (out). Make sure and support the weight of the drum as you slide it out. I found no need to remove the drum.
At the rear inside of our drum, there are three Torx screws that hold the bearing assembly on. I have a pretty long reach so I just removed two of the Torx screws, then reached around the back of the drum while removing the third screw, to keep the bearing assembly from falling onto the floor behind the back of the drum.
This plastic bearing is held to the bearing shaft by a little o-ring. Just pull the o-ring off, slide off the old bearing, slide the new bearing on and replace the o-ring (if yours is broken, any home store will have one that will work as a replacement in their faucet repair department).
Reattach the bearing housing to the drum with the Torx screws (get all three started before you tighten any of them), slide the drum back in - make sure you slide the belt as you move the drum back in and support the weight of the drum so you don't bash the bearing assembly into the back of the dryer.
You're doing this part blind, but in a few seconds, you can guide the bearing back into the hole in the back wall of the dryer. It just slides into the hole, nothing fancy.
Put the front of the dryer back on. Then replace the top (I had to remove the five screws on top of the dial panel to give it some flex so the top would pop back into place without stressing the dial panel), plug the dryer back in, and fire it up.
45 minutes after this part arrived at our home, our dryer problems were gone. Now that I've done one, I could probably do it in 20 minutes the next time (it's that simple/easy). And we didn't need a new dryer. Makes me think I should have the appliance guy who told me we needed a new dryer to direct all of these "pain in the fanny" bearing replacements to me because I could charge someone $50 total for the repair and make good money.
Hope all this babble helps someone else who doesn't need a new dryer.
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- Customer:
- William from West End, NC
- Parts Used:
- WH1X2721
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
selector knob cracked
ordered part on line--received in mail 2 days later--
just pushed on in 2 seconds--job done
how much easier can it get??????
just pushed on in 2 seconds--job done
how much easier can it get??????
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worn out drum bearing(squeaky)
If you're dis-assembling the dryer panels to remove the drum to acess the bearing located at the rear of the drum,don't hesitate to buy a idler pulley kit and a belt.It's easier to change them now,while it's apart. besides,their all pretty much in the same state of wear! In lew of prying my son away from the computer,an extra set of hands is a help, I used a scrap piece of 4x4 with a 1 inch whole bored in one side to place the bearing end into to steady it to get the screws started. otherwise you need to have 6ft.arms! re-assembly wasn't bad, a magnetic tipped #3 screw driver eliminates the frustration of dropping panel screws down inside the partially assembled body.
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- Customer:
- Jason from Cary, NC
- Parts Used:
- WE25M40
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- More than 2 hours
- Tools:
- Screw drivers, Socket set
Squeaking Dryer - Rear Drum bearing gone bad
First, I loosened the the top control panel and then loosened the top flat roof panel which allowed me access to the inside of the dryer. Then, I removed the front panel which allowed access to the drum. I was amazed at the amount of lint that was inside the dryer itself. Most of my time was spent in the disassembly and cleaning of the internal cavity around the drum. I reached below the drum and removed the belt from the pulley wheels and then unscrewed the drum (from the inside) from the back of the dryer and bearing kit. I removed the diffuser and cleaned it thoroughly. Then I replaced the entire drum bearing kit - the old one was almost completely dissentigrated. I probably should have applied some kind of non-flammable lubricant to the new bearing kit - the instructions did not include this step but after about 3 loads a slight squeak (different). I put everything back together - applying the new drum kit will require 2 sets of hands (my 9-year old daughter did great at this). I re-assembled the dryer and it works great, again except for the slight squeak that's still there. I may disassemble it again and apply some lubricant but I do not know what kind to get; I need to check that out.
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- Customer:
- Mark from Garrett, IN
- Parts Used:
- WE25M40
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- More than 2 hours
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
Dryer squeaked when running
Everything is cleaned as it is removed.
Remove the two screws holding the top down.
Disconnect two wires from door switch.
Remove the two hex screws holding the front on.
Remove the 4 screws holding the access panel on the back and disengage idler pulley to loosen the belt.
Remove the drum.
Label the wires then remove the heating element.
Check orientation of ground strap before disassembling rear bearing.
Remove four screws holding rear bearing to back of heating element.
Install rear bearing and ground strap on to heating element.
Reinstall heating element.
Reconnect wires.
Most Important : Get help putting parts back on drum! I didn't and that's why it took over 2 hours.
I will describe how I did it.
Unscrew bearing from inside of drum.
Wrap screwdriver with tape to a little larger than the screw hole.
Use small screwdriver to line up the drum, shim and deflector.
Don't forget the brass shim. It wasn't on the parts diagram.
Start two screws don't tighten them yet.
Remove Screwdriver and start third screw. Tighten all three down.
Put belt on drum.
Install drum and belt.
Reverse disassembly.
When putting the front on make sure drum rests in the felt.
I rated this a bit difficult because I did it myself. With help this is a fairly easy repair.
Remove the two screws holding the top down.
Disconnect two wires from door switch.
Remove the two hex screws holding the front on.
Remove the 4 screws holding the access panel on the back and disengage idler pulley to loosen the belt.
Remove the drum.
Label the wires then remove the heating element.
Check orientation of ground strap before disassembling rear bearing.
Remove four screws holding rear bearing to back of heating element.
Install rear bearing and ground strap on to heating element.
Reinstall heating element.
Reconnect wires.
Most Important : Get help putting parts back on drum! I didn't and that's why it took over 2 hours.
I will describe how I did it.
Unscrew bearing from inside of drum.
Wrap screwdriver with tape to a little larger than the screw hole.
Use small screwdriver to line up the drum, shim and deflector.
Don't forget the brass shim. It wasn't on the parts diagram.
Start two screws don't tighten them yet.
Remove Screwdriver and start third screw. Tighten all three down.
Put belt on drum.
Install drum and belt.
Reverse disassembly.
When putting the front on make sure drum rests in the felt.
I rated this a bit difficult because I did it myself. With help this is a fairly easy repair.
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- Customer:
- Steven from EPHRATA, WA
- Parts Used:
- WD21X10261
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
interlock switch was bad. Prevents the dishwasher form running as it "thinks" the door is still open.
Opened door, removed screw holding down metal plate that presses against interlock switch when door is closed. Removed plastic cover thingy that is over interlock switches. Removed the interlock switch by pressing the plastic lock thingy away from switch. Pulled the wires off each end of the interlock switch. Removed new interlock switch from plastic bag and reversed above procedure. Done, shut door and the dishwasher works.
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- Customer:
- Richard from Hedgesville, WV
- Parts Used:
- WE25M40
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 1- 2 hours
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Dryer developed a progressively noisy squeak over several months
I followed the directions that were listed on this site by other Do It Yourself individuals...by the way I'm a lady and more mechanically inclined than my husband, but he was a great help in lifting the drum up and out. (I unplugged the dryer before starting repairs)
1. I removed the two screws located at the top of the dryer inside the door.
2. Top of dryer cabinet lifted up after screws were removed.
3. Located and removed front panel retension screws and removed front panel and set aside
4. slipped belt off motor by reducing tension on idler pully
5. Removed screws inside drum that secured drum to bearing assembly
6. Husband and I lifted drum up and out of cabinet (this went very smoothly and took less than 15 minutes time.
7. Followed supplied bearing drum instructions and removed old bearing and installed new assembly.
8. Thoroughly cleaned out internal cabinet, blower, and motor areas
9. Reset the idler pully into proper position.
10. Tipped dryer on 'back' to reseat the drum With A NEW DRYER BELT (taped temporarily around the drum) into the bearing shaft (I may not be using the proper terms)
11. tipped dryer upright and while Hubby balanced the drum, the front panel was resecured to the rest of the cabinet.
12. Removed temporarily applied tape that held the drum belt in the general position, then using the rear access panel, I slipped the belt over the motor into the proper posisiton.
13. Top cabinet was reapplied and screwed into
place.
14 Plugged in and tested the dryer...NO SQUEAKS and it works beautifully and quietly!!
The job is not terribly difficult, but I am only 5 feet tall and the drum is bulky to work with and balance. Reaching into the cabinet to slip the belt onto the motor stretched my arm to the limit.
I found the cabinet reassembly and realignment of the screw holes quite annoying. But the total job proved satisfying upon completion.
1. I removed the two screws located at the top of the dryer inside the door.
2. Top of dryer cabinet lifted up after screws were removed.
3. Located and removed front panel retension screws and removed front panel and set aside
4. slipped belt off motor by reducing tension on idler pully
5. Removed screws inside drum that secured drum to bearing assembly
6. Husband and I lifted drum up and out of cabinet (this went very smoothly and took less than 15 minutes time.
7. Followed supplied bearing drum instructions and removed old bearing and installed new assembly.
8. Thoroughly cleaned out internal cabinet, blower, and motor areas
9. Reset the idler pully into proper position.
10. Tipped dryer on 'back' to reseat the drum With A NEW DRYER BELT (taped temporarily around the drum) into the bearing shaft (I may not be using the proper terms)
11. tipped dryer upright and while Hubby balanced the drum, the front panel was resecured to the rest of the cabinet.
12. Removed temporarily applied tape that held the drum belt in the general position, then using the rear access panel, I slipped the belt over the motor into the proper posisiton.
13. Top cabinet was reapplied and screwed into
place.
14 Plugged in and tested the dryer...NO SQUEAKS and it works beautifully and quietly!!
The job is not terribly difficult, but I am only 5 feet tall and the drum is bulky to work with and balance. Reaching into the cabinet to slip the belt onto the motor stretched my arm to the limit.
I found the cabinet reassembly and realignment of the screw holes quite annoying. But the total job proved satisfying upon completion.
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- Customer:
- Robyn from Laguna Niguel, CA
- Parts Used:
- WE1M1011
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Needed to change the door opening position
I removed the door and "flipped" it to open right to left. Rather than remove the existing door latch I added the purchased latch on the right side to enable opening the door right to left or left to right.
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- Customer:
- Kate from MULLINS, SC
- Parts Used:
- WE1M1011
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers
door latch was broken
Pulled out the remnants of the old latch out with the pliers and then popped the new one in...less than 2 minutes. Oh, and the part was delivered in less than 2 days. Great job, Partselect !
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Faint Squeek after dryer had been running for an hour or so
It makes it real easy if you have two people!! Put the dryer on it back--You'll need to protect the floor and the warm air exhaust of the dryer.
Remove the two screws that secure the top--they are located on the inside upper portion of where the door seats on the front panel. Remove the top
Remove the front by removing two screws near the top--one on each side
Remove the belt from the idler pulley--note how it comes off
Lift drum out of dryer
Use the torx bit to remove the bearing
If you got the kit it comes w/ the bearing housing--you'll need to disconnect a couple of the wiring harnesses holding the heater--replace the bearing housing
This is the perfect time to remove all dust bunnies
Re-install everything in reverse order
Remove the two screws that secure the top--they are located on the inside upper portion of where the door seats on the front panel. Remove the top
Remove the front by removing two screws near the top--one on each side
Remove the belt from the idler pulley--note how it comes off
Lift drum out of dryer
Use the torx bit to remove the bearing
If you got the kit it comes w/ the bearing housing--you'll need to disconnect a couple of the wiring harnesses holding the heater--replace the bearing housing
This is the perfect time to remove all dust bunnies
Re-install everything in reverse order
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Noisy like a chain rattling inside
Disconnect Power from the Dryer
Remove 2 screws that held the top on the dryer.
Removed the 2 screw that held the front on the dryer.
Unhooked the belt from the tensioner and motor pulley.
Pulled the drum out. Removed the belt.
Removed the three screws that held the bearing assembly
on the back of the drum.
Removed the keeper o-ring slide the bad bearing off of shaft. Slide the new bearing on the shaft put the new o-ring on the shaft. Reassembled the bearing on back of the drum. Put belt back around the drum and put drum back in place. Put The belt around the motor pulley and tensioner
(this is probably the hardest part).
Put the front and top back together.
Turned the power back on. Job done
Remove 2 screws that held the top on the dryer.
Removed the 2 screw that held the front on the dryer.
Unhooked the belt from the tensioner and motor pulley.
Pulled the drum out. Removed the belt.
Removed the three screws that held the bearing assembly
on the back of the drum.
Removed the keeper o-ring slide the bad bearing off of shaft. Slide the new bearing on the shaft put the new o-ring on the shaft. Reassembled the bearing on back of the drum. Put belt back around the drum and put drum back in place. Put The belt around the motor pulley and tensioner
(this is probably the hardest part).
Put the front and top back together.
Turned the power back on. Job done
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