GTR12BAXLWW General Electric Dryer - Instructions

Pulled off old knob and aligned new knob and pushed on. Videos sent with order was very clear and great customer service tool.

The repair was so easy when I got the part, I did it myself without any help in 5 seconds!

I removed two srews from the back panel inside fthe reezer compartment and the two that hold the air manifold/baffle? and pulled the baffle out. Then, I removed the two srews that hold the front part of the fan bracket behind the baffle and the back panel came out easily. Two more screws and one quick connect plug attached to the fan and I was done with removal. Insallation was even quicker, I slid the original fan right off the old motor and slid it on the new motor's shaft. Piece of cake! Thanks Partselect.

Removed the front Dryer panel. Left drum in place and lifted it up slightly to get access to motor drive. Slipped belt in place and put panel back on.
This was a first attempt ever at fixing an appliance and it was no big deal.

It was actually my father, he doesn't use the internet. He thought that because the dyer got real hot and then shut off he thought the thermostat wasn't working and the high temp shutoff was okay. He went through the manual and found the part and took it out. He called the service number but they wanted $50 dollars plus shipping. I saw it was a Thermo-disc part so I tried the manufacture's website but I couldn't match the numbers on the back to their part numbers. I tried several other sites and your site was the cheapest. It was real easy to use the web site and diagrams to find the right schematic and part. I ordered it online and it was delivered in 2 days with the regular shipping. When he first put it in the dyer didn't turn on. He found no power coming out of the timer so he cleaned the contacts and it worked. Thanks for making the ordering so easy.

Very easy. I just snapped the new timer knob on and I was ready to go.

removed back panel, exchanged wires on old timer to new. Do this one at a time as there is no color chart to follow. Timer clips back in. Used a little screw to lock it in. Not sure if this was on the original but there was a place for it. Re-attached back panel and placed knob on shaft.
Overall saved a bundle as a service visit is $175.

the repair was really easy!!! took longer to put the little clip on the fan part than it was to install the whole moter and put everthing back together

save money do it yourself.....

I applied some tips learned by reading other reviews. So before I started I grabbed my trusty vise grip pliers and a small screw driver. I locked onto the switch actuator, the part that the refrigerator door pushes in, with the vise grips and pulled on it just hard enough to get the screw driver inserted in the right side to push in the catch clip so the switch could be pulled out further each time the catch clip was depressed to the next detent. Then I used the screw driver on the left site to encourage the switch past the detents on the left and very quickly the switch was out of the mount. The wires from the refrigerator pulled out with the old switch. I unplugged the old switch from the wires and plugged in the new switch and shoved the new switch back into the mount, wiggled it a couple of times to make sure it was secure and the job was done. Once I applied the vise gripes at first, the whole job took less than a minute.

I pried out the remaining pieces of the handle out of the door with a screwdriver. When the new part arrived, I snapped it into place and it was done. It fit perfectly.

After determining that it was the defrost system, I ordered the thermostat. Make sure you look closely. Mine had two thermostats, and so I had to wait a couple of days for the extra part.
1. Remove ice maker if installed.
2. Remove center casing on ceiling and back wall. There may be two screws that need removed.
3. Locate and remove two screws on upper back wall.
4. Remove back wall carefully, revealing coil system.
5. If this was the problem, the coils will be iced over and need thawed. Either time or a hair dryer...
6. The thermostats clip onto the copper tubing, simply pull them off, keeping close attention to the color of the wires.
7. Be very careful touching the bottom of the coils as the defrost conductor coils are along the bottom and encased in easily breakable glass. If you need to replace this as well, remove the center brace (wire)by pulling towards you and then down. remove wire attachments at both ends and rotate coil out of end braces.
8. Replacing thermostats...you must CUT the wires, and attach new thermostats with wire couplers or wire nuts and then wrap with electrical tape that is rated for the cold.
9. Re-attach all parts and replace back wall and coverings.
10. Enjoy!

The end repair was very simple and took minimal effort. The time and difficulty was all in the testing. I disassembled the dryer and removed the drum and then hard wired each thermo-fuse to determine where the fault was. After test all of those I was stumped. When I opened the door the light would not come on so I assumed it was a power fault closer to the source. However after all of my testing I couldn't find anything wrong. I then removed the light bulb and realized it was burned out which led me to the door switch being the fault. I removed the switch and soldered the three wire together and the dryer started right up! All I had to do was order a new $15 part, unsolder the wires and plug them in. Would have been so much simpler if that light bulb hadn't of been burned out causing me to over think my diagnosis. This was my first major appliance repair and I did it with only the help of the parts diagram provided on the website.

Replaced timer switch, stem was stripped. Also found all 4 knobs cracked, which surprised me. . Unit only 2 years old, replaced them also. All repair done from top, removed top then control panel, popped knobs off, replced them. Working good now.

I had to take most of the dryer apart because there is no rear access to the motor. It turned out to be easy to dissasembel the dryer. The only problem that I had was that I could not figure out how to route the belt around the motor and the idol pullies. I could not find anywhere that gave instructions on how to properly tension the belt. I finally figured out that the idoler pulley needs to be locked in place on the right side of the engie mount. Then the belt needs to be routed over idoler pulley and under the motor pulley. Finally release the idoler pully from the locked postion to put tension on the belt. It really turned out to be pretty easy.

Removed the crisper drawers, then the glass top shelf insert, then cleaned the area before sliding in the new cover and then replacing the crisper drawers and the glass top insert.