GLER331CAS0 Frigidaire Dryer - Instructions

Just slipped them on and ready to go. Ordered them on thur and got em on Tues.

Disconect the dryer from the main power source.

1) Remove the two screws from the rear / upper panel (below the control panel).

2) Snap the front side using a flat head screw driver.

3) On the inside front, remove two screws (one on each side) from the upper side and snap the door assembly off.

4) Remove the rear motor access panel (two screws) and appying tension to the spring remove the belt.

5) Pull the drum upwards (verticaly) unnapping it from the rear wall and remove it horizontally through the front panel.

6) Disconect the four leads to the heating element and remove the four screws from the rear of the dryer and replace the heating element.

Follow the same steps backwards to put the dryer together again.

Unplugged Dryer.
Opened top of Dryer, over the drum.
Removed Thermal Limiter.
Tested the Thermal Limiter - found it was open.
Checked all vents and exhaust tube for lint build-up.
Replaced Thermal Limiter.
Closed top of dryer.
Plugged Dryer back.
Tested Dryer - it works.

I first disconnected the power by unplugging power cord.

I then removed back cover from control panel using philips screwdriver.

I removed the start switch by twisting it counter clockwise.

I removed the two push on connectors from the start switch.

I installed the two connectors on the new switch.

I twisted the new switch into place, and installed the new knob.

I reinstalled the back cover plate.

I inserted the power cord back into the receptacle.

I twisted the start knob clockwise.

VOILA!!!!!

I found a electrical diagram and some common problems on some websites which led me to check the thermal limiters. There are two right up top near the back of the dryer - one mounted closer to the heating coils and one mounted directly to the sheet metal on the inside back of the dryer. Using an DMM on the "Ohms" setting, I checked each sensor to make sure that they were "closed" (near zero ohms). Sure enough, the sensor mounted on the back of the enclosure was open (high resistance) which prevented the dryer from starting. To confirm, I shorted the two leads going to the sensor together temporarily and wrapped them with electrical tape and then tested the dryer - it worked perfectly. The part from Part Select was ordered and shipped very quickly. Since the sheet metal screws holding the sensor on were difficult to access with the drum in place, I used small machine screws/nuts to fasten the sensor - this allowed me to tighten the nuts from the outside of the dryer, making it very easy to attach.

I unlatched top panel then removed two screws holding front panel on. I then lifted drum out of hanger to make room to remove element. Disconnect wires to limit switch and element. I then removed four screws on back of dryer that hold the pan. I removed old assembly and replaced with new one. Assemble in reverse.

removed the screws, disconnected the wires. installed the new elements replaced the wires.

Did repairs by hand, took longer to open box and remove packaging that to install the parts. Total time from mail box to repair complete- 3 Minutes.

After entering the info on the dryer into the PartSelect site, it brought up a list of parts, and a diagram showing where all parts go on the dryer.
Clicking on the knob description brought up a photo which proved beyond a shadow of doubt that this was the correct part. At a cost of $5, who wouldn't pay for the expedited freight also? For 6 months we've kept the pliars on top of the dryer to use in place of the worn out knob. Don't lose the address to this site. Jim

First, I unplugged the dryer. Then, I removed the back panel from the controls section (6 screws), disconnected the old switch and reconnected the new switch. Positioning the switch in the control panel took some figuring out, but once I realized that the switch slots into place, and then gets locked in by turning 1/8 of a turn, it worked fine.

Replacing the knobs was a cinch, just popped them in place. Now the controls are like new again.

Frigidaire controls are really junk, though. I won't be surprised if I have to do this repair again in two years.

Once the part was located all I needed to do was pop the old part off and pop the new part on. It took less than a minute from start to finish. It also saved me an $80 service call.

1) Removed Top Dryer Cover (pushed 2 compression clips on front side 1" from top and 2" in from each side) to gain access to terminal block in rear.
2) Removed 2 screws over terminal block cover and 2 screws holding bad terminal block in place. Removed 3 screws holding bad power cord,
3) Removed good terminal connectors from bad terminal block and reinstalled them in the new terminal block.
4) Cut dryer wire from bad terminal block connector and soldered (optional) them to the new terminal block connector. Installed this connector into the new terminal block.
5) Installed new terminal block in dryer with 2 screws.
6) Installed new power cord on new terminal block ensuring contacts were tight and cord had pull guard properly installed. Reinstalled terminal block cover with 2 screws.
7) Reinstalled Dryer Top Cover.

The first thing I did was cheked the electrical panel and breaker, then I checked the electrical cord, then I did check the motor on the bottom of the machine (that may be is the blower motor) looking for any indication of burned parts or broken, then I checked the on-off switch with a voltmeter looking for continuity and it was fine. Then I checked the timer switch and it was fine as well. Finally, I took the lid off the top of the dryer machine to check the thermostat and themal limiter fuse. The thermostat was fine but the thermal fuse was open. So after doing some research to understand how the fuse work I decided to place an order to get a new fuse. I installed it and the dryer started working again. After replacing the fuse I monitored the dryer machine while operating it and worked fine. Why the fuse was open or was damaged? It is the first time I have problems w/ the dryer. I checked the end of the conduct line that guide the air out and I noticed and have to clean the end of it because it was dirt. Because it was not completly clean, the dryer got overheated. It took me sometime to figure out the problem but I learned, save me money and the best part was that I do it myself : )

I waded into this project without knowing what I was doing and as a result did much more work than was needed. What I should have done was 1) open access panel at lower left of back of dryer and rmove belt from pully 2) push screwdriver in against clips in seem at top front of dryer (where top meets face) and lift top up and off hinges at back 3) remove screws holding front of dryer to the sides of the dryer cabinet (about 1 foot down) and swing front down on hinges at bottom 4) lift dryer drum straight up out of the bracket at the back of the dryer 5) remove wires from the dryer element and heat sensor on the heater pan (about 4 and 1 o'clock respectively wires are on tight, may need plieres) 6) unscrew heater pan from back of dryer 7) remove heat sensor from old heater pan and put on new heater pan 8) screw new heater pan to back of dryer 9) replace wires to elements and sensor, you may want to "crimp" the connectors onto the tabs 10) replace dryer drum slipping back into back bracket, be sure that dryer belt is around drum as when you openned the dryer 11) lift up front so that drum fits around and is supported by flange molded into front 12) replace screws that attach front to dryer cabinet 13) replace top of dryer (put back on hinges at back and lower onto clips in front 14) put dryer belt back on pully and replace access plate.

remove the rear lower left vent cover to get access the belt tensioner and pulley. then pop the top section up with a flathead screwdriver in the front, freeing it from the popclips. Then remove two screws from the back side of the front section releasing the drum. loop the belt around the drum.