Models > CDE20R7AC

CDE20R7AC Crosley Dryer

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This kit comes with three separate thermal fuses and is usually used with clothes dryers that have a fan mounted on the motor shaft. Included within this kit is the high limit (Limit: 258) the gas hig...
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This is a multi-use screw and can be used on a variety of appliances. The measurements of the screw are: 8/18 x 3/8. *Please note: the screw is sold individually. Refer to the manual provided by the m...
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This blower wheel clamp is less than an inch long and is used for some clothes dryers to hold the blower wheel firmly in place. This green clamp is made of metal.
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Included in this rear drum support roller kit are 4 screws, 1 spacers, 2 washers, 2 retaining rings, 2 rear rollers, and 2 cylinder support shafts. *** Note: Per manufacturer this kit has been upd...
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This blower wheel is manufactured to fit a 1/2 inch motor shaft.
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This part works in conjunction with the blower wheel.
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This timer resistor assembly is two inches long. It is made of ceramic and metal.
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Sold individually.
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$333.16
This drive motor rotates the drum by turning the belt.
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This idler pulley wheel is just over two inches in diameter. It is all white in color and it is made entirely of plastic.
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This dryer drum glide is used with many dryers. It is almost three inches long, and it has an adhesive backing.
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Common Problems and Symptoms for CDE20R7AC

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Noisy
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Too hot
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Won’t Start
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Will Not Start
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Not Heating
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Will not agitate
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Customer:
Ronald from Fredericksburg, VA
Parts Used:
LA-1053
Difficulty Level:
Easy
Total Repair Time:
30 - 60 mins
Tools:
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
Electric dryer would not heat - Thermal fuses - $25 fix - I love DIY
1. Unplug dryer from power outlet
2. Lift dryer top from front (hinged in rear). Just friction holding top down. Use flat scewdriver wrapped in cloth to help lift.
3. Locate heating element - rear top behind drum
4. Unplug red wires to the high limit thermal fuse
5. Unplug red wires to the heating element
6. Unlug white wires to the high limit fuse
7. Remove high limit thermal fuse
8. Remove heating element
9. Remove high limit fuse
10 Clean heating box
Installation is reverse order but do the following first!
Clean lint trap - Remove front of dryer
1. Unplug white door switch wires. inside front top right
2. remove two screws securing the front of dryer - inside front top left and top right. Front of dryer is hinged at bottom
3. Clean all the lint you can find. If you have never cleaned out the lint, there might be a lot and the cause of over heating (shorting fuse life). Add to your yearly things to do list.
4. While your at it check the alignment of the plastic glides the drum sits on.
5. Also check the foam gasket between the fan housing and lint trap. Mine was off a bit. Realigned with doubled sided tape.
214 of 234 people found this instruction helpful.
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Customer:
Brianna from Littleton, CO
Parts Used:
LA-1044
Difficulty Level:
Really Easy
Total Repair Time:
Less than 15 mins
Tools:
Socket set
Dry stopped heating - still had good air flow
I was about to purchase a new dryer because of the age of my dryer and not wanting to hire someone to fix it. After a little web research, I saw several do-it -yourself stories indicating this was a very easy repair.

This was an extremely easy repair and it save me lots of $$:
(1) Disconnected power
(2) Opened the top of the dryer
(3) Disconnected wires to temperature sensor.
(4) Used a 1/2" socket wrench with extension and a drill to remove 2 screws holding down the temperature sensor
(5) Removed 1 screw holding down the heating element.
(6) Removed wires connected to heating element and pulled out old element.
(7) Reassembled new element.
(8) Turned on empty dryer for 30 minutes to burn off smell from the new element.

Worked like a charm!
205 of 231 people found this instruction helpful.
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Customer:
Michelle from Kirkwood, MO
Parts Used:
LA-1008
Difficulty Level:
Really Easy
Total Repair Time:
15 - 30 mins
Tools:
Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
Dryer squeaking really badly
I opened the dryer from the front by pushing in on the two clips just under the top. I then had to remove two screws on each side and took the front panel off. I reached around underneath on the right side to slip the belt off the pulley. I pulled the drum out and then I could see the roller that was squeaking (the left one). The whee l had sheared some of the support off and that was the cause of the squeak.

I took the locking ring off and removed the wheel and support. I put the new support in, attached it, and then the wheel, washer and lock ring. I used pliers to push the lock ring onto the support.

Then I put the drum back in making sure it was in all the way (it fits snugly between the wheel and the back of the dryer). The belt is a little tricky to get back on. I put it around the drum and then reached underneath and behind again. The pulley is on a spring, so you have to pull it up and put the belt on all one-handed and blind. Once that was on, I gave it a few turns to make sure everything was working again.

It is quiet as can be now!
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