4GAED4900YW1 Admiral Dryer - Instructions

To reach the heating element you only need to open the back cover of the dryer (about 8 nut-head screws). Remember to disconnect the power.

To remove the heating element there are two small nut-head screws. Remove the two electric wires. Then you can pull the heating element away.

You can check the heating element with an ohm-meter or visually inspect it to see if the heating element spiral wire is broken.

Don't hurry to dispose the old element. My model includes a small electric safety part. You'll need to transfer it to the new heating element (that comes without it)..

Good luck.

First tried heating element and thermal fuse with no luck. Ordered thermal cutoff and fixed problem. Had I used an ohm meter first I would have determined problem before having ordered heating element and fuse, as both had resistance. I wast just lazy and ordered the took the most common failed components first before taking dryer back off.

The repair was easy. the most time consuming part was vacuuming the dust from the back of the Dryer, The repair required removing screw from the back panel of the dryer. Then removing screws from the heating element and unplugging the wires. The only moderately diffculy part was swapping the sensor form the old element.

Received your parts, Popped them both right into place, Even though only one side needed to be replaced, I wanted them to match up. It was amazing how easy this was. My husband was quite impressed I had ordered these rather then look for either a new or used dryer from some other source.

Moved dryer from wall,disconnected power. Unscrewed the 12+ sheet metal screws holding on the back cover. Located heating element, remover it's two sheet metal screws and pulled down on the element to remove. Disconnected the two electrical leads from element and went to the top of Dryer. Do not remiember if told to remove the tempture kill button was easy to see that it was needed on new element. Moved high tempeture senson to new element. Reversed steps to install new element. Replaced back cover, pluged in and powered up. Works like a champ. Thanks for the price on the part and the video which started me on the right track. I'll be back !!

I basically took the back offo the drive, then detach
the heating coil. Afterwards had to go back in and
change the thermal regulator an the job was completed.

Removed some screws and partially dismantled the door so I could get the old catch out. Inserted the new catch, and put the screws back in. Saved me an $80+ service call.
On the filter, I had to use pliers to remove the old one because the handle had broken off. Did that, and inserted the new one. Done. Sears had been unable to supply me with a new filter.

I first disconnected the power. Then, I took off the back panel with about 8-10 screws. There were a couple of screws that held the heating element in place, which I removed. Then, I disconnected the heating element. The heating element was toward the bottom right hand side and was easily accessible. The connections to the heating element were a little bit tough to disconnect but not too bad. I had to use a flat head screw driver to kind of pry them off but looking back I think some needlenose pliers would have worked better. I then removed the bad heating element and plugged in the new one. I replaced all the screws and turned the dryer back on. It blew hot air again and all was well. I am not very mechanical and it was all pretty easy.

Grow a second set of hands. Always unplug any appliance. Remove lint screen. remove two screws (philips Head). I took a wooden shim lightly tapped w/hammer to pop front of dryer top free. Mine worked on hinges and just flipped back til it rested against the wall. Removed two 5/16 screws inside holding face on carefully raise face section off the support clips at either side on the bottom. Pull drum out (I have the large style drum commercial size [approx.). Clean the inside free of all lint (known to be fire hazard). Sling new belt around drum. Get newly grown set of hands to hold drum in place. Pinch belt to fit between tensioner, lift tensioner and place belt around motor pulley. Spin drum couple times to make certain belt isn't twisted. Reverse dismantle proccess to put back together. Replace all parts that come with kit, you'll feel better knowing you got a new dryer, almost.

I can't believe I waited so long to find this part and do this. I got the package very fast, opened it, took the piece to my dryer and popped it into place with my fingers. It worked perfectly! this took all of two minutes and saved me from having to hold the dryer door closed with a stick. Thank you, thank you!!!

unpluged the dryer, removed the back panel, I examined the heating coil, it seemed unbroken, so I used a amp meter to test the various sensors. Found the upper thermal sensor was bad, looked up the part and ordered it, had to get the thermal cut off kit to get the sensor I needed. Installed it no problem, put the back back on, and it worked great.

1. Removed the screws from the lint catcher
2. Removed the bolts from upper rear of dryer
3. Pried off the dryer top from the front (it rests on rear hinges)
4. Disconnected dryer door wiring
5. Removed bolt from inside upper front corners; removed front panel (be careful: the edges are sharp and the tumbler will fall when it loses support)
6. Removed broken belt and lint from interior parts; removed tensioner (which had fallen out of place). Note: The newer models have a tensioner pulley; my older model had a smooth semicircle that was confusing at first glance
7. Flipped dryer onto its back (for easier reinsertion of new belt and tumbler)
8. Placed new belt on tumbler; reinserted tumbler
9. Inserted new belt through tensioner, inserted tensioner "legs" into grooves on floor. Note: The belt will pull the tensioner upright when it's inserted properly (which isn't obvious at first)
10. Made sure belt and tumbler seal were properly installed
11. Replaced parts in reverse order
The process took over an hour because I couldn't figure out how to insert the belt through the tensioner. The trick is to insert the folded belt through the tensioner and onto the motor pulley. If I had to do it again, it would take about 30 minutes (including cleaning lint)

After realizing that my dryer was no longer heating, I took off the back and examined the heating element. I saw that a coil was broken and knew that it needed replaced. When the part came in, I basically changed out the wires that were plugged into the old element on to the new one, replaced the screws in the heating element housing and back panel, plugged in the dryer and was back in business! Oh, by the way...I am a 49 year old WOMAN!!!!

This repair was a cinch. Pliers to pull out the metal piece and a screwdriver to pry out the 'catch' part in the door. Both replacement pieces went right in. I cannot believe how easy and CHEAP this fix was, and I'm so glad I found this site!! I figured I would have to call a repairman and pay big bucks, so I put it off, but the door was getting worse--slamming it so hard to keep it shut. Again, thanks for this great site.

couldn't get blower wheel off of the motor. really tight. rounded off the wheel's square hub while trying to hold it still as I turned the motor shaft out. No, I wasn't turning it the wrong way :) I ended up going to the back of the dryer and using the multimax to quickly cut the wheel away from the hub. I love that oscillating saw! Just for fun, I put the motor in a bench vise and got the wheel hub off (in pieces). VERY tight! Ordered new wheel, and the job was smooth sailing from there on. I am guessing that experienced repair people automatically order the motor and blower wheel at the same time(?) BTW both parts were perfect matches for the originals. Not surprised; this has always been my experience with partselect.com!