4KAED4475TQ0 Admiral Dryer - Instructions

To reach the heating element you only need to open the back cover of the dryer (about 8 nut-head screws). Remember to disconnect the power.

To remove the heating element there are two small nut-head screws. Remove the two electric wires. Then you can pull the heating element away.

You can check the heating element with an ohm-meter or visually inspect it to see if the heating element spiral wire is broken.

Don't hurry to dispose the old element. My model includes a small electric safety part. You'll need to transfer it to the new heating element (that comes without it)..

Good luck.

First tried heating element and thermal fuse with no luck. Ordered thermal cutoff and fixed problem. Had I used an ohm meter first I would have determined problem before having ordered heating element and fuse, as both had resistance. I wast just lazy and ordered the took the most common failed components first before taking dryer back off.

The repair was easy. the most time consuming part was vacuuming the dust from the back of the Dryer, The repair required removing screw from the back panel of the dryer. Then removing screws from the heating element and unplugging the wires. The only moderately diffculy part was swapping the sensor form the old element.

Moved dryer from wall,disconnected power. Unscrewed the 12+ sheet metal screws holding on the back cover. Located heating element, remover it's two sheet metal screws and pulled down on the element to remove. Disconnected the two electrical leads from element and went to the top of Dryer. Do not remiember if told to remove the tempture kill button was easy to see that it was needed on new element. Moved high tempeture senson to new element. Reversed steps to install new element. Replaced back cover, pluged in and powered up. Works like a champ. Thanks for the price on the part and the video which started me on the right track. I'll be back !!

I basically took the back offo the drive, then detach
the heating coil. Afterwards had to go back in and
change the thermal regulator an the job was completed.

The best part of my repair was I had everything back in service in 3 days. And one of these days was to consider just buying a new dryer. Had parts overnited and all parts fit and easy to replace.

1) Removed back - 6 screws
2) Removed dryer vent - 2 screws on top, 3 on bottom
3) Popped the top open
4) Removed Front of dryer cabinet - 2 screws
5) Removed Belt
6) Removed Drum
7) Cleaned up all lint
8) Pop off motor retainers front and back
Here is the tricky part for me.
9) Removed vent fan on back of motor.
I did not know that the back of the fan was square, and you could put an open ended wrench on it to hold it while you also have a vice grip on the front motor shaft. Then its a simple left to loosey operation. I first tryed to turn the fan blade to take it off, but proved to be to tight.
10) Repeat backwards to reassemble

While I had it apart I also replaced the Drum support rollers & Installed a new belt. Not that diffucult of a repair Good Luck, was certainly better than buying a new one at + $300.00 at Black Friday rates.

I first disconnected the power. Then, I took off the back panel with about 8-10 screws. There were a couple of screws that held the heating element in place, which I removed. Then, I disconnected the heating element. The heating element was toward the bottom right hand side and was easily accessible. The connections to the heating element were a little bit tough to disconnect but not too bad. I had to use a flat head screw driver to kind of pry them off but looking back I think some needlenose pliers would have worked better. I then removed the bad heating element and plugged in the new one. I replaced all the screws and turned the dryer back on. It blew hot air again and all was well. I am not very mechanical and it was all pretty easy.

Grow a second set of hands. Always unplug any appliance. Remove lint screen. remove two screws (philips Head). I took a wooden shim lightly tapped w/hammer to pop front of dryer top free. Mine worked on hinges and just flipped back til it rested against the wall. Removed two 5/16 screws inside holding face on carefully raise face section off the support clips at either side on the bottom. Pull drum out (I have the large style drum commercial size [approx.). Clean the inside free of all lint (known to be fire hazard). Sling new belt around drum. Get newly grown set of hands to hold drum in place. Pinch belt to fit between tensioner, lift tensioner and place belt around motor pulley. Spin drum couple times to make certain belt isn't twisted. Reverse dismantle proccess to put back together. Replace all parts that come with kit, you'll feel better knowing you got a new dryer, almost.

unpluged the dryer, removed the back panel, I examined the heating coil, it seemed unbroken, so I used a amp meter to test the various sensors. Found the upper thermal sensor was bad, looked up the part and ordered it, had to get the thermal cut off kit to get the sensor I needed. Installed it no problem, put the back back on, and it worked great.

1. Removed the screws from the lint catcher
2. Removed the bolts from upper rear of dryer
3. Pried off the dryer top from the front (it rests on rear hinges)
4. Disconnected dryer door wiring
5. Removed bolt from inside upper front corners; removed front panel (be careful: the edges are sharp and the tumbler will fall when it loses support)
6. Removed broken belt and lint from interior parts; removed tensioner (which had fallen out of place). Note: The newer models have a tensioner pulley; my older model had a smooth semicircle that was confusing at first glance
7. Flipped dryer onto its back (for easier reinsertion of new belt and tumbler)
8. Placed new belt on tumbler; reinserted tumbler
9. Inserted new belt through tensioner, inserted tensioner "legs" into grooves on floor. Note: The belt will pull the tensioner upright when it's inserted properly (which isn't obvious at first)
10. Made sure belt and tumbler seal were properly installed
11. Replaced parts in reverse order
The process took over an hour because I couldn't figure out how to insert the belt through the tensioner. The trick is to insert the folded belt through the tensioner and onto the motor pulley. If I had to do it again, it would take about 30 minutes (including cleaning lint)

After realizing that my dryer was no longer heating, I took off the back and examined the heating element. I saw that a coil was broken and knew that it needed replaced. When the part came in, I basically changed out the wires that were plugged into the old element on to the new one, replaced the screws in the heating element housing and back panel, plugged in the dryer and was back in business! Oh, by the way...I am a 49 year old WOMAN!!!!

Turned off the power.Pulled the dryer out, removed the screws from the control cover panel, unplugged the switch, pressed the release clip the did the opposite to install new switch. Replaced the back panel, put the nob on and it looks as good as new.Turned on the power.

After looking on the website for advice I walked throught the simple steps of disassembling the front, removing the drum, removed the back, disconnected the wire harness. Then removed the blower housing in the back. The blower, mounted on the back side of the motor was very tight. I used a pipe wrench wedged in place and help by my 10 year old Grand-daughter while I used an adjustable wrench to turn the shaft on the front of the motor. Spun the blower off, removed the two clips holding the motor. Then reversed the process when I received the new motor. Care should be taken to avoid damaging the blower fan if a lot of pressure is required.

couldn't get blower wheel off of the motor. really tight. rounded off the wheel's square hub while trying to hold it still as I turned the motor shaft out. No, I wasn't turning it the wrong way :) I ended up going to the back of the dryer and using the multimax to quickly cut the wheel away from the hub. I love that oscillating saw! Just for fun, I put the motor in a bench vise and got the wheel hub off (in pieces). VERY tight! Ordered new wheel, and the job was smooth sailing from there on. I am guessing that experienced repair people automatically order the motor and blower wheel at the same time(?) BTW both parts were perfect matches for the originals. Not surprised; this has always been my experience with partselect.com!

1st Unpluged power.
2nd removed two screws under lint screen cover.
3rd poped up lid with flathead screwdryer, then removed (2) 5/16 screws from door cover and unpluged lid switch, lifted up dryer door pannel
4th removed drum
5th took out plastic triangle wheel rings
6th removed old belt guild (to motor pully)
7th removed old wheels and plastic rings stops
8th cleaned excessive hair dust with shopvac
9th put new replaicment part in dryer. made sure to turn manually to make sure belt was lined up properly, then put all dryer peices back.
10th aditional work, took back cover off and removed the (4) 1/4 screws for lint screen case (left side in dryer) vacumed out any excessive dirt lint ect, also cleaned any excessive dust I found in back of dryer, dryer , exhaust ect, and put all back together.
JUst like a new dryer aain after all PM was complete.