Models > AGD4675YQ2

AGD4675YQ2 Admiral Dryer

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This is an authentic drum support roller kit for 29-inch-wide dryers. It includes 1 belt, 2 roller wheels and an idler pulley. The parts in this kit allow the dryer to tumble properly by supporting th...
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This multi rib belt is an OEM replacement part for a dryer. It attaches to the drum, idler pulley, and motor pulley, and is responsible for spinning the drum. Over time, the belt can become frayed, br...
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This thermostat is an OEM replacement part for a dryer. It is sold individually. It measures approximately 2-inches by 1.5-inches, is black and silver, and constructed of plastic and metal material. Y...
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This OEM kit comes with two ignition coils (one three-terminal boost/hold coil, and one two-terminal secondary coil). Usually only one of them burns out, but you should replace them as a set as both h...
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This is a rear drum support roller kit for your dryer. The 2 rollers come with 4 tri-rings, and 1 palnut. We recommend that you replace both rollers at once. This kit stabilizes the drum cylinder, whi...
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This is a genuine OEM replacement igniter kit for your gas-heated clothes dryer. The silicon carbide igniter is used to light the gas that creates the heat in order to dry your clothes. If your dryer ...
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This small but mighty OEM piece is called a tri-ring and is used to support the drum roller shaft and the idler pulley shaft in your dryer. It helps to provide a tight seal between components by evenl...
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This genuine OEM kit includes a high limit thermostat and a thermal cut-off fuse for your dryer. The thermostat has a limit of 250 degrees Fahrenheit, and the fuse has a limit of 360 degrees Fahrenhei...
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It is important for your dryer to be properly leveled, as an unleveled one can cause excessive vibration and noise when operating, may not drain properly, and can cause excessive wear on various parts...
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This genuine OEM part is a radiant flame sensor for your gas dryer. It is used to determine when the temperature of the igniter is hot enough to ignite the gas. Once the igniter is hot enough, it allo...
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This drive motor operates the dryer by turning the drive belt which spins the drum and will fit most Whirlpool incorporated dryer brands before 1996. If the motor has shorted out, it will no longer tu...
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This is a genuine OEM replacement rear drum seal for your dryer. This seal is made of felt and comes with the adhesive required for installation. The purpose of the seal is to prevent hot air from esc...
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James
March 17, 2022
How do you remove panels to change dryer belt?
For model number AGD4675YQ2
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Hello James, Thank you for the question. Here is a link to a how to video on installing the Belt. If you need help placing an order, customer service is open 7 days a week. Please feel free to give us a call. We look forward to hearing from you!

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Common Problems and Symptoms for AGD4675YQ2

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Noisy
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Drum Not Spinning
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Not Heating
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Too hot
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Door won’t close
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Marks left on clothes
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Won’t Start
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Door Pops Open
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Heat stays on after drum has stopped
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Timer Not Working
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Running With Door Open
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Will Not Start
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Touchpad does not respond
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Customer:
Paul from Monmouth, IL
Parts Used:
341241, WP3387134, W10612022
Difficulty Level:
Easy
Total Repair Time:
1- 2 hours
Tools:
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
intermittant heat
First I shut off the gas supply and disconnected the dryer vent and unpluged the unit so you can access the rear of the dryer. Then I removed the rear cover. This is where you will find your thermostats and fuses. Holding the new part next to the one to be replaced I transfer the wires one at a time so as not to get them mixed up, then un screw the old part and install the new one. Insert a flat blade screwdriver under the top cover in the 2 front corners to unsnap it from it's clips, also at this time you need to remove the 2 screws that hold the upper part of the lint filter tube to the lid, then lift the lid to expose the drum ( I tilted the dryer back as far as the flex gas line would allow me to and rested the top lid against the wall without removing it, to many wires). Behind the front cover in the top right corner is the plug for the door switch,un-plug it and also there are 2 screws one in each corner. After that lift the front cover straight up and pull it away from the cabinet ( it has clips at the bottom to hold it in place). Reaching under the drum on the right side pull down on the belt tensioner and release the belt from the motor then you can remove the drum. Laying the drum down on it's front edge I removed the rear felt seal and took a piece of sand paper to rough up th old glue and clean off some of the felt that was still stuck to the drum. Following the directions from the seal package I put the glue around the edge of the drum and re-installed the new felt. This is a good time to clean out your dryer, while the glue sets up. A shop vac works the best, but be carefull not to suck up the money, it will help pay for the repair ( I found over a dollar in change ). At this time I also changed the coils on the gas valve, remove the 2 screws that hold the clamp and replace them one at a time. Re-install the drum with the belt on it, fold it and push it through the tensioner and put it on the motor pulley. rotate the drum to make sure that the felt is not kinked under itself, re-install the front cover bottom clips first, then the 2 screws and the plug for the door switch, pull down the lid and snap it in place, before installing the rear cover this is a good time to remove the rear cover to the lint chute and clean in there also ( it's easy to see why there are so many dryer fires). Re- install that cover and the rear cover and vent tube, turn your gas back on and check it for leaks ( even if you didn't disconnect it) plug your dryer back in and get busy catching up on the laundry that you haven't had a chance to do because your dryer broke, then smile and think about all the money you saved by doing this simple repair your self. Thanks Parts Select
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Customer:
Mark from Fremont, NE
Parts Used:
349241T, 341241, 279827
Difficulty Level:
Really Easy
Total Repair Time:
30 - 60 mins
Tools:
Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable), Wrench set
Wife told me Dryer would make a funny sound, then stop + had an a funny smell as well. The Electric motor that drove the unit was overheating and locking up, It was time to be replace.
The best part of my repair was I had everything back in service in 3 days. And one of these days was to consider just buying a new dryer. Had parts overnited and all parts fit and easy to replace.

1) Removed back - 6 screws
2) Removed dryer vent - 2 screws on top, 3 on bottom
3) Popped the top open
4) Removed Fro nt of dryer cabinet - 2 screws
5) Removed Belt
6) Removed Drum
7) Cleaned up all lint
8) Pop off motor retainers front and back
Here is the tricky part for me.
9) Removed vent fan on back of motor.
I did not know that the back of the fan was square, and you could put an open ended wrench on it to hold it while you also have a vice grip on the front motor shaft. Then its a simple left to loosey operation. I first tryed to turn the fan blade to take it off, but proved to be to tight.
10) Repeat backwards to reassemble

While I had it apart I also replaced the Drum support rollers & Installed a new belt. Not that diffucult of a repair Good Luck, was certainly better than buying a new one at + $300.00 at Black Friday rates.
430 of 479 people found this instruction helpful.
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Customer:
Gary from Haverhill, NH
Parts Used:
279834
Difficulty Level:
Easy
Total Repair Time:
30 - 60 mins
Tools:
Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
Dryer ran but would not heat
PartSelect showed seven different possibilities why the dryer wouldn't heat. I removed the two screws to remove the bottom panel and turned the dryer on and noticed that the heating element that ignites the gas was working fine. This meant that it was not getting gas so it could be the gas valve or one of the two gas valve coils which are located on top of the gas valve. I borrowed my neighbor"s ohm meter and touched the two probes on the coils terminals to check for continuity and found that one of the coils read zero. I then took both of the coils out by removing two screws and tested each coil again. One coil read 500-850 and the other read zero. This meant that it was no good so I called for the part and received it in three days. I reassembled the parts and turned the dryer on and it fired up after a few seconds. It works as good as new. The part plus shipping was less than $30. My repairman would have charged me $150-$200. While the dryer was apart I gave it a good cleaning with a vacuum and a toothbrush in delicate areas. I also removed and cleaned the lint trap housing by removing two nuts. I didn't know much about gas dryers, but thanks to PartSelect I easily fixed it myself.
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