MDBH968AWS3 Maytag Dishwasher - Instructions

I ordered the part and snapped it on. It was so easy to find the part on the website and it came very quickly. I am a satisfied customer!

I ordered a new replacement basket. The new one is a little different but it fits in the same place and takes up the same amount of room in the dishwasher. It looks very nice too.

There was no repair to be done. Just replaced the defective basket with the new one.
I got the part two days after ordering it. Great service.

It was so easy to find the right part on the PartsSelect website. I just had to enter the manufacturer (Maytag) and model number and up popped skematics of all the parts available. I just clicked on the drawing of the basket and placed the order. It took less that 5 minutes. The part arrived 4 days later as promised. The repair took even less time than teh ordering. I simply took the old basket out and dropped in the new one.

I'm just happy to know there is a place that has such a user friendly website and stocks so many parts for older appliances. I had my house built in 1992 and several of the appliance are original. Fortunately I always keep the owners manuals for every piece of equipment so the model and serial numbers are readily available.

Most of the time was spent pulling out the dishwasher from under the counter, as a new tile floor had been installed after the DW was installed.

Great pictures of components on this website confirmed what part to order.

Shut off water feed to DW and disconnect power to DW.

Unplug wire connector to old valve (solenoid) and disconnect water inlet hose. Observe that valve is attached to sheet metal bracket.

Remove bracket, with valve attached. Don't remove valve from bracket. New valve comes with sheet metal bracket.

Remove female threaded adaptor (brass) from back of old valve and screw on to new valve using Teflon tape. That is the only piece you need to reuse.

Attached the new bracket (with valve attached) to DW. Attach water inlet hose. Attach plug to new valve.

Turn on water to DW. Check for leaks. Retighten hose connection if required. Run dishwasher. Keep lower panel off for a couple of days to be certain no leaks develop.

I ordered and replaced both the door gasket (easy) and inner door seal (difficult) to try and correct a leak during operation. The door gasket was easily replaced. However, the inner door seal was a bit more trouble. After removing the inner door I found that the old inner seal needed to be removed and surfaces thoroughly cleaned of old build-up of dishwasher soap residue, in order to allow the sticky back tape side of door seal to properly stick to the door. There also was a plastic cover over the wire bundle that needed to be cleaned. The inner door seal was the exact length, so proper positioning of the sticky back was very important.
Upon reassemly the leak still existed and I was unable to correct the leak. Further inspection indicated that the basic tub/body of the dishwasher might be slightly distorted due to age and may not create seal with door seal as originally designed.
I guess I need to find a new dishwasher, at this point.
A word to the wise: Check to see if the tub/body is still in good condition.

Ordered replacement basket online at much better price than available localy. When I recieved it discovered that it did not include the handle, but was suprised to see it labeled as "Genuine Maytag Parts" ( I realy expected a knock-off replacement part for the price difference). I was able to remove tha handle from the old basket and install it on the new one. Job done. No problem

I simply snapped the new wheel assemblies back on. The main thing I want to say is that I have never owned a dishwasher that required replacing wheels and I believe there is a design flaw in the wheel that they break so easily. If you look at the way they are mounted on the rack, eventually the weight of dishes on the rack will wear them out and break them. It cost me nearly $50 to replace them all. I bought extras because I know more will break in the future.

This product comes in a bottle with a brush like Liquid Paper. It goes on incredibly easy. A second coat might be needed. I wanted to prevent rust from setting in so I covered the scratches and dings. The paint is a little brighter since my washer is 10 years old but it still looks great.

I went to PartSelect and found the parts pictorial. A replacement motor was listed for 3 series of the dishwasher. The series can be identified by the first 2 digits of the dishwasher serial number. Mine was 22 so I needed parts for the series 20 dishwasher.

According to the pictorial it looked like the motor seals were included with the replacement motor. When the motor arrived, I found the seals were not included. I called PartSelect and they shipped the seals to me with free overnight delivery.

I had no trouble disassembling the wash manifold and spray parts using the instructions provided with the replacement motor and the instructions from the Maytag repair manual that I found online. The motor is removed from the inside of the tub.... very nice. You don't need to remove the dishwasher from under the counter in order to get at the motor.

I made a mental note of the orientation of the faulty motor before I removed it. I installed the replacement motor with the same orientation along with the wash parts. The dishwasher worked successfully.

Thank you PartSelect.

This very easy repair made the appliance usable again.
First, turn off power to the unit (wall switch, in my case, may be a breaker in your case, just to be safe).
Simply removed all of the torx screwdrivers (I think I used torx driver bit #27, maybe #26, found in most security screwdriver bit sets).
Had to remove all the screws on both sides and along the top of the interior metal cover of the dishwasher door.
Once those were removed, worked the inner half of the door loose from the outer part (it did not have to come all the way off, just held it apart long enough to do the repair).
Then found the broken parts that had fallen in and remove them, then gently worked the latch assembly loose from the front panel and found the only way that the replacement part would fit, with the two small hinge points that snapped it into place on the latch assembly.
Replaced the latch assembly and moved the metal panel back into place, lining up the screw holes, started the two screws that go into the latch assembly itself and then a couple of screws on the sides to hold the panels together.
You can move the metal panel to position it just right before tightening any of the screws down all the way. I started with the two middle screws that held the latch assembly and then added all the rest, tightening them all loosely at first and then adjusting the fit before alternating sides to tighten them all firmly.
Latch works fine now.

After repairing this dishwasher 5 times during the past 8 years this one was real easy: Open door, unscrew inside cover and carefully move over to one side. Unplug soap dispenser, unscrew soap dispenser and remove. Fit new dispenser, reconnect it, put inner cover back in its place and secure it with the retained screws and you are back in operation. Hans.

the new dishrack fit right in immediately with no tools needed. Delivery was prompt

I pulled the unit from under the counter. the springs and cables are on the front sides of the dishwasher. I moved the insulation removed the broken spring and cables and replaced them with the new parts. just one side was broken, but I replaced both while I had the unit out.

The initial repair was more involved due to figuring out how to get at the problem. A foam sealer strip located at the bottom of the inner door had lost it's seal. I first sent off for one and it was of relatively thin material. It was carefully installed but still leaked. I ordered another one from Part Select and it had thicker foam. It was installed right over the previously installed strip and made a tight seal. (knock on wood)