MDB8601AWW41 Maytag Dishwasher - Instructions

I ordered the part and snapped it on. It was so easy to find the part on the website and it came very quickly. I am a satisfied customer!

Most of the time was spent pulling out the dishwasher from under the counter, as a new tile floor had been installed after the DW was installed.

Great pictures of components on this website confirmed what part to order.

Shut off water feed to DW and disconnect power to DW.

Unplug wire connector to old valve (solenoid) and disconnect water inlet hose. Observe that valve is attached to sheet metal bracket.

Remove bracket, with valve attached. Don't remove valve from bracket. New valve comes with sheet metal bracket.

Remove female threaded adaptor (brass) from back of old valve and screw on to new valve using Teflon tape. That is the only piece you need to reuse.

Attached the new bracket (with valve attached) to DW. Attach water inlet hose. Attach plug to new valve.

Turn on water to DW. Check for leaks. Retighten hose connection if required. Run dishwasher. Keep lower panel off for a couple of days to be certain no leaks develop.

I ordered and replaced both the door gasket (easy) and inner door seal (difficult) to try and correct a leak during operation. The door gasket was easily replaced. However, the inner door seal was a bit more trouble. After removing the inner door I found that the old inner seal needed to be removed and surfaces thoroughly cleaned of old build-up of dishwasher soap residue, in order to allow the sticky back tape side of door seal to properly stick to the door. There also was a plastic cover over the wire bundle that needed to be cleaned. The inner door seal was the exact length, so proper positioning of the sticky back was very important.
Upon reassemly the leak still existed and I was unable to correct the leak. Further inspection indicated that the basic tub/body of the dishwasher might be slightly distorted due to age and may not create seal with door seal as originally designed.
I guess I need to find a new dishwasher, at this point.
A word to the wise: Check to see if the tub/body is still in good condition.

I simply snapped the new wheel assemblies back on. The main thing I want to say is that I have never owned a dishwasher that required replacing wheels and I believe there is a design flaw in the wheel that they break so easily. If you look at the way they are mounted on the rack, eventually the weight of dishes on the rack will wear them out and break them. It cost me nearly $50 to replace them all. I bought extras because I know more will break in the future.

First I turned off thecircuit breaker for the dishwasher at the circuit box. I removed the inside of the door panel by unscrewing about ten screws. (need a special bit). Then I unhooked two sets of wires. They just pulled apart with the plastic nodes. I took out a couple of more screws to remove the touch panel. I opened the black box on the outer door panel and fed the electronic strip from the new touch panel into the same slot as the old one. Very easy. Then I reconnected the wires and put the panel back on.
I had been given an estimate that it would cost me more than $300 to repair the dishwasher, more than $100 for the touch panel and another $100 or so for a new door panel, plus more than $100 for the labor. I got the touch panel for about $60, did not need a new door panel, and did the repairs myself.

I had to remove the 4 screws holding the toe panel. Then I had to take out the one screw holding the floater switch housing in place. It snapped open to release the floater and that just lifted out. I put the new float in and snapped the new housing on. I put the screw back in to hold the housing in place attached the two wires to the switch and put the toe panel back on. It was all very easy to do and my first home repair went very well. thank you.

This product comes in a bottle with a brush like Liquid Paper. It goes on incredibly easy. A second coat might be needed. I wanted to prevent rust from setting in so I covered the scratches and dings. The paint is a little brighter since my washer is 10 years old but it still looks great.

After repairing this dishwasher 5 times during the past 8 years this one was real easy: Open door, unscrew inside cover and carefully move over to one side. Unplug soap dispenser, unscrew soap dispenser and remove. Fit new dispenser, reconnect it, put inner cover back in its place and secure it with the retained screws and you are back in operation. Hans.

I noticed there was a filter type of material in the bottom of the dishwasher that had a small tear in it and figured that was my problem. I removed the nut from the sprayer arm at the bottom of the tub, removed the sprayer arm, removed 3 screws of the plastic cover below that. Removed six screws on the plastic cover below that. Removed one screw fron the center of the black pump spinner wheel that allowed me to lift off that cover. Then I lifted out the flowplate assembly. Placed the new part in and reversed the steps. Works like new again! All for about $30...I am not trianed in any way and have no experience in this kind of thing but am motivated trying to avoid a large service bill for a few screws. I am so happy...Thanks PartSelect!

the new dishrack fit right in immediately with no tools needed. Delivery was prompt

I pulled the unit from under the counter. the springs and cables are on the front sides of the dishwasher. I moved the insulation removed the broken spring and cables and replaced them with the new parts. just one side was broken, but I replaced both while I had the unit out.

The initial repair was more involved due to figuring out how to get at the problem. A foam sealer strip located at the bottom of the inner door had lost it's seal. I first sent off for one and it was of relatively thin material. It was carefully installed but still leaked. I ordered another one from Part Select and it had thicker foam. It was installed right over the previously installed strip and made a tight seal. (knock on wood)

Removed plastic lining from dishwasher door with torx screwdriver, then removed screw holding door latch assembly in place. Removed existing switch from door latch assembly and replaced.

This switch was not the correct one initially as it was a normally closed switch, whereas the existing switch was a normally open. Was able to pry open the switch and switch the contacts to normally open so it worked out in the end. Would recommend purchasing the complete latch assembly w/ switches if you aren't comfortable taking the switch apart.

All other lights on the front control panel were lighting up but the dishwasher would not start. I checked the float in the front right hand side on the floor of the dishwasher to make sure it was not stuck. I also made sure the door would "click" when shut. I went on line and found out that the most common problem with this brand of dishwasher not starting was a bad control panel. It was simple to replace.

took the bottom spray arm & lower plastic pieces out, unscrewed the impeller & replaced it. the original impeller which holds the disposal blade down & wore down & no longer retained the blade. snap.