MDB7959SKZ4 Maytag Dishwasher - Instructions

I called an experienced plumber, who balanced and installed my new dishwasher properly, using the brackets I ordered from Parts Select, after an INEXPERIENCED plumber had tossed the factory-provided mounting brackets out with the shipping carton. Relief!

After pulling the dishwasher out, I was able to determine the leak was occurring around the plastic nuts on the end of the heating element. I removed the heating element and saw that even though there were washers on the ends that protruded through the backside of the machine, they really weren't sealing the holes the element was sticking through. Looking at YouTube videos on the installation procedure, I noticed the element being installed had a sort of metal grommet permanently affixed to each end and the rubber washers were between the grommet and the dishwasher body. I ordered the new part and saw this to be when I received the new part. This grommet allowed the washer to seal the hole, once the plastic nuts were installed on the backside of the dishwasher. This seems to have stopped the leak. I don't know how the original part ever worked correctly, since the washers freely sat on the element with nothing to force them up against the body of the dishwasher and seal the holes. It may have been leaking long before I discovered the problem.

The valve has a plastic fitting to attach the the water line with a hose fitting. Was not carful enough with the original and damaged it attaching the water line. Ordered a replacement fitting. While it is possible to replace the water inlet valve without pulling the dishwasher out from the cabinet found it was easier to get at with the machine out. The video does and good job of showing the removal and replacing the valve. Easy job, don't be like me and be careful attaching the water line.

After unplugging the dishwasher, removing the water supply hose, and disconnecting the drain hose, I removed the dishwasher from under the cabinet. I turned the dishwasher on its side, exposing the drain pump. I removed the electrical connection wire by sliding the white keeper forward and then using a small screwdriver, I pushed in on the black clip securing the plug. I then found the clip holding the pump and rotated the pump from the sump area. I installed the new pump in the same way I removed it. Reinstalled the water line, pump hose . Put unit back and plugged it in. Turned on dishwasher. Works perfectly now.

I found it best to lay the dishwasher on it's side, this makes it easier to attach a 90 degree hose fitting without cross threading the plastic fitting.

Removed old part and replaced with new part

Diagnose using onboard diagnostic function. Note the light code for our dishwasher did not match others online, so check the quick guide that came with your dishwasher.

Undo all clamps to the circulation pump, remove the drain pump from the assembly.

Install drain pump into new assembly, and install all parts into dishwasher. Ensure all cables connected and reinstall dishwasher into cabinet space. Run short test cycle and check for leaks.

Turn off water and disconnect water line.
Pull dishwasher out as far as possible.
loosen both door hinges, with a helper holding the door at an angle.
Disconnect connecting wire between hinges.
Remove and replace left door hinge. Then remove and replace the right hinge.
Reconnect every thing, turn on water.
Hinge is a poor design. Ours had grease on the spring and it had slipped off the connection.

Disconnected water, drain and electricity. Pulled machine out and put on its back to access bottom. It's a matter of swapping out the part. You do have to "move" some blocking parts, but no big deal. Only issue is you need to have traditional hose clamps as the 2 OEM clamps are 1 time use and if you do not have the crimper, you need to replace with standard ones. Also, no one tells you that you may need to "reset" the machine when you put the power back on. I had an error /fault code of FA E5 which is a drain issue. Just cut the power for a couple of minutes, open the door, hit CANCEL twice ( you may need to hit HEATED DRY too), put power back on, and the fault code will go away. Not sure if this is what the factory says, but a bit of trial and error solved it.

Never done any repair before on an appliance, but a lot less expensive than repair person who wanted $665 + tax.

Motor was loud and was getting louder. I couldn’t find an away to order just the motor so I ordered the motor and pump assembly, removed the motor from the pump case with the 3 torx screws. Very easy replacement, resolved issue completely.

Shut water supply off
Unplug dishwasher
Disconnect water supply hose
Disconnect drain hose
Tip dishwasher down and lay on the front
Disconnect recirculation hose for tool access
Remove 3 torx screws from motor
Disconnect plastic retention clip from top motor bracket
Pull rubber motor mount out of metal motor bracket
Slide motor bracket way from motor
Disconnect electrical connection from motor
Pull motor and pump impeller off pump housing
Put new motor and pump impeller into pump housing
Replace 3 torx screws
Slide motor mount bracket back into place
Replace rubber motor mount
Push motor end into rubber motor mount
Reconnect electrical connection
Replace recirculation hose
Replace drain hose
Replace water supply hose
Plug in

followed directions, a kid could have done it,

Cut DW brackets to size, attached to DW. Bent back tabs, pushed DW into place and installed screws.

It’s great when you have parts that fit and a schematic to go by. I got both from this site. There are three parts that these screws hold in place. Use the schematic to see which way each part is facing. Line all the parts up and then look through the covers. You’ll see pre drilled holes on either side of the cover. Line the screws up to the pre drilled holes. Put the first screw in half way then insert the second screw all the way. Come back to the first screw and tighten it all the way. Two screws, two minutes and I was done. Real easy repair, just awkward as you are on your belly on the floor. I used a drill with a socket that fit the screw head.

I just popped the new one onto the bottom of the middle rack and it was done. Easiest repair I have EVER done!

Was a little time consuming as i had to disconnect water and waste supply hook ups under sink. After getting that done was really easy. Flipped DWasher in side removed old unit and installed new.