LD-6090TB1 LG Dishwasher - Instructions

Removed mounting screws from sides of disher. Removed broken piece of connector assy still attached to hinge. Attached new connector assy to hinge then looped it around pulley with spring attached to opposite end. Need both hands to pull spring up to side of tub and connect it. I would suggest replacing both connector assemblies while you have the dishwasher pulled out. Push dishwasher back in and mount with screws.

Replacing the spring and connector assembly (the cord had frayed and broken) was easy and took only a matter of minutes to do. Wrestling the dishwasher in and out of its space under the counter was very difficult. Because my kitchen is compact, I had to move the refrigerator first, then disconnect the Romex cable and water lines from the dishwasher before I could pull it fully from under the counter. The side panels have screws in the front and the back, so the appliance had to be moved out until its back was exposed. But I got the job done and the door works just like a new one now!

Unscrewed the screws, displaced the dispenser and re installed the screws

Pull the dishwasher out from underneath the countertop took 2 minutes unscrewed the panel on the side one minute put the connector on one minute screwed the panel back on 1 minute put the dishwasher back underneath the counter two minutes very easy job

Disconnect washer - pull out and turn on it's right side. Remove bottom plate (2 screws). Water intake valve is attached to water line. Disconnect water line. On the other end of the pump is a rubber hose. Disconnect hose by using a pair of pliers to open pipe clamp. Disconnect the electric line by pulling the pronged plug out of the pump. The part is composed of the pump and a metal mounting plate. They are connected by 4 screws. Remove the screws and pull out the back half of the pump. The front of the pump is attached to the washer frame by 2 screws. When removed you will notice an o-ring that forms the seal between the two halves. Remember this when installing the new pump. You will have to take the new pump apart because the whole part will not fit through the frame opening, thus the need to make sure the o-ring is properly seated. You can either install the mounting plate to the frame then attach the pump half or with half of the part in front of the frame and the other half behind the frame connect the two, then attach it to the frame. Reconnect incoming water line using teflon tape and a crescent wrench. Reconnect out-flow line with the pipe clamp and attach the power line. Since you have to take the new pump apart make sure the o-ring is properly seated as it will have a tendency to fall out. Reassemble the rest.

Snapped the rollers on.

When I found the problem to be the check valve I reinstalled the drive motor and water pump, ordered the part I needed,Installed the new check valve, installed the rest of the parts and did a test run which corrected the problem.

The inside gasket deteriorates over time - However replacement is easy. the main thing you have to remember is after you remove the old gasket, install the new one starting at the middle top of the tub and work your way down both sides. Also, don't push the gasket all the way in...only enough to hold in place. When you close the door the gasket will form a better seal around the door.

I got on line and 'chatted' with an online person. After describing the problem, she told me it had to be the water entry pump. I ordered it and put it in. VERY EASY. Then, it still didn't want to work right. It would start & stop and never get a full cycle. So I got online and looked at the diagrams provided, and decided to take off the "Filter Assembly Mesh". After already replacing the water entry pump, I took off the Filter Asssembly Mesh part (by undoing 8 screws), & found that the pump gasket was somewhat coming apart. Upon waiting for receipt of these two items, I realized that I thought it wasn't getting hot either. Once again, I looked at the provided online diagrams and ordered the heater assembly. After placing the dishwasher on its front again, I traced the connecting wires, marked them for later replacement & removed those & removed the ground wire and pulled out the old heater. Voila', its was rusted in two places. Ordered the heater. Upon receipt, I placed a small amount of Vaseline around the heater gasket prior to inserting fully. Reversed the process, assured myself everything was in and properly seated and tightened. Put the machine back in and it works great!

pulled dishwasher out of cabinet, removed side panel held by screws front and back, removed broken tension rope installed new rope, replaced side panel pushed dishwasher back into cabinet and fastened
to countertop, door works like new now, (the chief cook is happy as she can be)

My husband was able to slide the dishwasher out, and quickly replace the old connector assembly for the new ones. The old connector assembly had broken at the “rope”. Now the door opens slowly and is as good as new.

The repair took right at one hour. Repair length of time will depend on what all you have to disconnect to get your dish washer out so you can remove both side panels where you will be able to access the door springs, etc. There is a door spring on each side and I recommend replacing both connectors cords while you have the dishwasher out. Mine were both broken. One thing I noticed when doing my repair was that the bracket that is on the bottom of the door was not aligned properly to the small pulley that the connector cords travels under. If yours is out of alignment you will be able to tell once you get the connector cord installed. I used heavy pliers to bend the bracket slightly inward so the connector cords rides in the center of the pulley and not off to the outside as before. This may be why mine broke in the first place. After part replacement, reinstall the door panels and put the washer back in service. There are also YouTube's of this repair so you can see what you are getting into. Basic repair.

I am 77 years old and got it all on but the corners did not want to go in so I had to call my grandson and he got them in. It still leaked on the bottom left side. It is getting old (11 yrs) so I decided to get a new one. It is actually pretty simple to install, but it does take a little strength.

Took off the broken one and snap on the new one.

Very easy repair. First remove all the screws from the inside of the door, making sure you support the outside part of the door with a pot under it on the floor. Pull the locker part out, remove wire connection with needlenose pliers, and install replacement part. Put door back together, and you're done.