66515791790 Kenmore Dishwasher - Instructions

Completely removed lower wash arm and replaced bearing ring and seal.

Removed spray arm thumb nut. Removed spray arm. replaced worn and broken earings and re-assembled in reverse order. Would have done the repair a lot sooner if I had known that PartsSelect was just a few miles up the highway.

Installed new door seal. Dishwasher still leaked. Googled the model number and then cleaned the filter at the bottom of the dishwasher, still leaked.
Verified that manifold bearing was not work. It was OK.
Found note that a plugged vent might cause leaking door. Very counterintuitive. Pried off air vent cover. Vent was thouroughly plugged with calcium deposts from steam. Cleaned these out.
Dishwasher no longer leaks.

Disconnect unit and remove from under counter. remove lower spray arm, tip over dishwasher on it's back, diconnect wires from motor , unscrew drain fitting rotate motor mounts to and lift pump and motor assembly up and out from inside the dishwasher. thoughly clean all parts during pump disassembly( under running water and a toothbrush works well) . Looking at a parts diagram,and using your memory from disassembly replace the new seals and put it all back together, with patience you can do anything and use common sense.

Ordered both drain & wash impeller kit and the drain check valve with o-ring. Decided to test the cheaper drain check valve first. Pulled dishwasher out from wall & adjacent cabinetry; removed drain hose from disposer and drained as much water as possible; "jacked" side of dishwasher to gain access to drain hose and drain check valve; used pliers to remove hose clamp; placed flat pan underneath to catch remaining water drainage; unscrewed drain check valve; tested under bathroom faucet--determined faulty; replaced with the new one, restored connections, reset dishwasher in proper location; voila--fixed! Plan to return the unneeded impeller kit.

I removed the screw holding the spray arm to the bracket. I then put on the new bracket and tightened the screw. The bracket just clips on to the top basket of the washer. Easy as pie.

The first thing I did was to investigate. I needed to find where the leak was coming from. It was leaking from just above tne door front panel, directly underneath the control panel buttons. I opened the dishwasher door, and decided to remove the door screen vent. I was covered with some offwhite fiberous, or filter like material. I thought perhaps the filter had broken down, and I ordered a new screen. When it arrived, and, although I had expected to receive a new filter with the plastic door screen, I didn't. There wasn't one to be ordered. I looked at the screen again. My problem was, that although I had considered that the substance I had thought was a filter, was instead build up of detergent, and other particals. That idea didn't seem to make sense. I didn't think it was possible for that stuff to get to the door screen. I thought, it was too far away from the dispenser and food particles. As it turned out, the buildup was, in fact, the problem. I properly cleaned the door vent, which was then fine, and I put it back into the door. There were no more leaks, that was it, and the problem was solved. As a last note however, unfortunatley, I have to return the new door vent screen that I ordered. I enjoyed solving the problem, and you all helped alot. Let's do it again sometime.

I first removed the wash arm retainer nut then lifted the arm assembly out and replaced the spray arm bearing ring and then set the spray arm back in place and put the wash arm bearing ring in the hole and screwed the wash arm retainer nut back in place. I couldn't believe how much the 2 had worn down. It is working fine. Saved me about a $125.00 service call out here as I live 50 miles from the nearest big town. Not bad for a 68 year old female!!

I removed the old gasket, installed the new one which took about 20 seconds.Tested the unit, water was still dripping, but in a different fashion.As per a previous poster's instructions I removed the vent cover. (Located inside the dishwasher up high.)I cleaned out the calcium deposits with hot water and a sacraficial toothbrush. "Ta-Da!" Everything is now groovy!Thank you so very much for your excellent service. Your site was easy to use and your shipping was "lightning fast!" Also, the advice you sent me was invaluable. I thank you, my wife thanks you and my trained lobster thanks you too! :)

First, examine very carefully how the old spring relates to the detergent release box lid. Note that the top of the spring has a square-end upside down "U" . This rests on a small ledge on the detergent box. Also note that on either end of the spring is a straight extension of the spring wire. These two "legs" must rest on the inside of the edge of the detergent box. Second, use a flat blade screw driver to pry the LID hinge pin from the mounting "posts. Remove the pin, first noting the position of the spring. Reassemble the spring on the hinge pin in reverse order. Then snap the lid onto the spring using the two mounting "posts". NOTE: I used a very fine needle nose pliers to move the two spring "legs" behind the detergent box edge after I had mounted the lid. Flip the lid down to test if the spring pressure on the lid can be felt. Harold Kitzmann, Fishersville VA

Grinding Noise when running. I was not sure of problem and thought that a new Dishwasher may be needed if motor was the problem. After taking the bottom rack and spray arms out I came across my first problem. I believe it was the impeller design that has a 1in hex nut with a bolt in middle that needed to be removed. I needed a 90 degree 1in wrench to hold impleller while I removed Bolt. Luckly I have a friend that is a mechinist who made me a wrench.
After that the grinding cause was discovered - Broken glass that grinded the cermic shaft that is over motor shaft. I did not small drops of water under motor during grinding due to damaged cermic shaft.
$24 and 2 days later my dishwasher is as good as new. Sugguest you sell a 1in 90 degree hard plastic wrench for holding impeller which bolt is removed.
Thanks
PS. - Best part of your site is Parts detail which was very helpful for me to understand assembly.

Follow diagram that comes with the repair kit

This repair was very simple. I opened the door of the dishwasher then pulled the old rubber seal (gasket) out; I checked the old gasket to with the new one to ensure the new one was correct then installed the new one. There are two small rubber pieces located in mounting slots below the door gasket that slide out; I slide the old ones out and slide the new ones in. No tools required.
The thing that made the whole job easier was ordering the parts from Parts Select; I couldn't find exactly what I needed on the Whirlpool website but I found exactly what I needed on the Parts Select website and the parts were a perfect match.

The part arrived the next day after order was placed. That is an amazing service.
When it arrived I noticed that the new part was re-designed but the dimensions appeared to be identical. Initially it was difficult to snap it in to position but with help of a screw driver it finally snapped in place. After re-installation of the upper wash arm all looked perfect. But the arm would not spin freely. It would bind against the bottom of the upper tray. Finally after about 20 minutes I noticed that the mount was slightly slanted to one side. This was not immediately apparent unless you look carefully. Further I noticed that the bottom of the upper tray was protruding lower on the right side. Finally I realized why the mount was slanted to one side. I removed the mount and turned it 180 deg.. Bingo all fits and works perfectly. I could have avoided the problems if an orientation directions were included with the mount. I suspect that a less technical individual would likely not figure it out.

The new rack came with four parts... those four parts were the wheels that the rack rides on to slide it into the dishwasher. You will need to recycle two rubber bumpers, your old utensil basket and the cone in the center of the rack. Getting the cone free was not easy. It has to be rotated to release it from the wire rack. I had to pry it free with a screwdriver. Once rotated it lifted out easily. I noted how the cone lined up in the old rack and installed it the same way in the new rack. It was much easier to install than remove. The new rack has a gray tinge to it but fits perfectly and we are pleased with the end result.