Models > 66512779K311

66512779K311 Kenmore Dishwasher

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The retainer clip is used to hold the access panel on your dishwasher in place. It is a genuine OEM part that is black in color and sold individually. The only tool required to complete the repair is ...
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If your dishwasher has started leaking, there may be an issue with the door seal. This genuine OEM replacement part measures approximately 22 inches long and 2 inches wide. The seal is made of plastic...
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This part is used to hold the access panel in place. Sold individually.
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This door latch secures the dishwasher door and signals the control board when closed, allowing the cycle to begin. If the door won’t latch or the dishwasher won’t start, the latch may be faulty. Comp...
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Sold individually.
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$36.42
Shield
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Sold individually. The size of this screw is 1/4" hex head and 10-12 x 1/2".
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This part is a replacement screw for your dishwasher. It is made of metal and is approximately ¾ inch long. It is a hex-head screw and is sold individually. It is used to hold the dispenser bracket in...
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$76.95
If your dishwasher door won’t close properly or feels loose, the hinge might be the problem. This replacement hinge supports the door and helps it open and close smoothly. Easy to install and built fo...
Special Order
$21.82
Sold individually.
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$69.95
This door hinge supports smooth opening and secure closure by maintaining correct door alignment. Proper hinge function helps preserve door sealing and prevents uneven wear. Replacing a worn hinge res...
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In Stock
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Common Problems and Symptoms for 66512779K311

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Leaking
Fixed by these parts
Fixing Fixing Fixing
How to fix it
Door latch failure
Fixed by these parts
Fixing Fixing Fixing
How to fix it
Door won’t close
Fixed by these parts
Fixing Fixing
How to fix it
Will Not Start
Fixed by these parts
Fixing Fixing
How to fix it
Not cleaning dishes properly
Fixed by these parts
Fixing
How to fix it
Will not dispense detergent
Fixed by these parts
Fixing
How to fix it
Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
Customer:
Don from GRAPEVINE, TX
Parts Used:
WPW10497235
Difficulty Level:
A Bit Difficult
Total Repair Time:
30 - 60 mins
Tools:
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Door leaking from corner.
First, I replaced the bottom door seal. You will need magnetic nut drivers because of the location of the 3/16 screws that hold the seal in place. you also need a 1/4 in nut driver to remove plastic cover that covers up the 5 3/16 screws. Last you need a small star driver to remove the door screws. Note 4 of the door screws, the 4 on top of the door are much longer than the side screws. With all this said, this seal was not my problem. I then replaced the large black rubber seal around the tub. Be sure if you do this you fold the seal in half and start in the middle of the top of the opening so you have the exact amount of seal left over on both sides. Also when you remove the old seal, clean the area it was removed from with a damp cloth. Turns out, That was not my problem either. So now I will move to the next step to see where the water is coming from but maybe this information will help someone with a simple door leak.
48 of 55 people found this instruction helpful.
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Customer:
RONALD from PRESCOTT, AZ
Parts Used:
WPW10653840
Difficulty Level:
Really Easy
Total Repair Time:
30 - 60 mins
Door would not latch shut
Following a utube video made it easy. Removed the outer cover of the door to expose latch. Two screws remove the latch, pay attention to how it was positioned and put the new one on and then replace the panel. But first turn off the electricity to the unit at the fuse box.
7 of 7 people found this instruction helpful.
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Customer:
Timothy from Falls Church, VA
Parts Used:
W11612303, W11612302
Difficulty Level:
A Bit Difficult
Total Repair Time:
15 - 30 mins
Tools:
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Hinge bent went spring cable broke
My wife hired a local repairman when the right side spring cable broke (I was out of town). He took two hours to fix it (and two appointments). The door would then pop open when running. He came back and replaced the latch. Problems persisted. I then ordered new hinges and replaced both in half hour or so. Would recommend doing all of these repairs yourself. None of these repairs are that hard and definitely not worth paying hundreds to do it. Trickiest part is pulling the dishwasher out from the counter without impacting the electrical or water connections. Disconnecting the power is important on all repairs. When you take the screws out of the door to get to the hinges, make sure you have a helper just to hold the door up while removing the last few screws. The left side hinge was really bent (when the right side spring cable broke) - caused the door to be out of square and thus would not effectively close. This was obvious after a 5 minute search on this this and other repair sites. Process that I used: 1. remove screws from both sides holding dishwasher into counter (may have screws into countertop as well). 2. turn off power, 3. pull out dishwasher far enough to see hinges and springs (careful of connections), 4. remove front door screws, 5. take off front panel, 6. remove spring cables (pull cable taut and remove "hook" from hinge)., 7. unscrew two screws holding hinge to door, 8. bend metal fingers around hinge pin to be able to remove hinge., 9. attach hinge in opposite path. 10. repeat on other side (if necessary), 11. reconnect things in opposite order...test door prior to reattaching door panel. Make sure you level the unit with the adjustable feet. Make sure screws in sides of cabinet aren't too tight as it can take the unit out of square pretty easily...
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