GDB755RJB0 Gibson Dishwasher - Instructions

Remove the bottom cover plate. Disconnect the water inlet and black rubber hose. Remove 2 mounting screws. Pull out electrical connector. Reverse order. Be sure to get the brass inlet connector really tight so it won't leak. I did the final tightning after the part is mounted. Not a bad repair at all. The only problem was that it leaked in the first place and messed up my subfloor and laminate flooring.

Took the roller out of the package, snapped it into place. Less than 15 seconds. Works good as new.

First I opened the door all the way. Second I reached down to the bottom gasket then grabed it on the right end of the seal that is on the right side of the door. Then I pulled the end outward from the bottom of the door toward the heater coil in the bottom of the washer. It came out real easy. You see it just snaps into a little plastic groove under the door. I then cleaned up the area for food and soap particules. I then placed the new gasket in place by lining up the notch toward the right end with the piece of plastic that encloses the right end of the plastic notch on the bottom right end of the door. Then push it in untill it stops going into the notch. It snaps in but does not make a snaping sound. It just won't go in no more.

I have had to keep replacing the spray arm on the bottom of my dishwasher which takes like 2 seconds to do.. First you open the dishwasher and than pull the bottom basked forward and reach down and pull the spray arm up and pop the bottom of the spray arm off and put it on the new spray arm and slip it back into the dishwasher over the thing that makes it spin around.. but the tricky part is and I didn't know this and this is why my dishwasher spray arm kept falling over and melting on the heating element.. you have to turn it till it clicks in.. and your done..

I removed old tub gasket, which the door presses against to make a seal, and put the new one in. Flat tip screwdriver was used to gently press gasket in.

1. Shut off water supply.
2. Removed inlet water hose where it connects to the vavle assembly.
3. Removed the two bracket screws holding the assembly to the frame, and detached the electrical connection from the solinoid.
4. Removed the inlet hose adapter connection from old valve and installed into new valve.
5. Attached electrical connection to new valve solinoid.
6. Remounted assembly to the frame.
7. Re-attached the inlet water hose to the hose adapter connection on the valve.
8. Turned on the water, washed some dishes.

It was amazing, the items were shipped within days of placing the order. They arrived ready for installation. My husband had the new racks in place in 10 minutes. He removed the wheels from the old racks and placed the wheel on the new racks which required no tools. Then we slid the new racks into place, a perfect fit!

First I removed and replaced the gasket around the tub. It didn't require any tools and took about 2 minutes to complete. I didn't really need to replace the gasket but it came with the latch kit so I went ahead and replaced it anyway. Than I removed only the top door panel (6 screws) and supported it while I removed the broken latch (2 Torx screws). I had to use a pair of needle nose pliers to pull the wires off the old latch (keeping track of where each wire came from) then plugged the wires onto the new latch and screwed it back to the door. Put the door panel back in place with the 6 screws I had removed earlier and I was done. it all took about 15 minutes and the wife is so glade she is not doing dishes by hand anymore that she left me alone for the rest of the night.

Received the part 3 working days after order. Part was exactly like the original.
Removed the door. Slipped off old gasket and replaced with new gasket. Replaced door and tried rinse cycle. Worked perfectly.

The tub perforations at the heater leaked and water dripped onto the fastening nuts and the electrical connections. I ordered a new heater element and it did not have the necessary nuts to fasten it to the tub. I had to go back and order them separately. The original nuts are very unique and cannot be substituted for.The manufacturer should send them with every heater element because this leaking problem is very prevalent on these machines.

With the door wide open and lower dishtray out, I pulled the old gasket out of its channel. I cleaned the channel with a rag and replaced it with the new gasket. It needed to be trimmed about an inch in order to get the door to close properly. Took me about 5 minutes. Then I removed the old bottom door gasket. Just grasped the plastic edge showing while the door is completely open. Pull outward with fingers moving toward the heating element. Cleaned this area also. Took the new gasket with notch on the right hand side of the dishwasher and pushed it into place. If you get down and look closely, you can see where the notch hooks up. The rest of the piece just slides in after that. Hasn't leaked since! No leaks AND no service call fee. Parts came super fast! So glad I found this website. I'm a housewife, you can do this!

Reading the instructions posted, I realized that I only needed to remove the two lower screws on the inside of the dishwasher door. The lower front panel then came off easily. I unplugged the power to the dishwasher. I then removed the six screws holding the dispenser in place, and when loose I unplugged the two wires (I used a flat blade screwdrive to pry them a bit then they slid off -- note the red one was inside, lighter one outside). I put the new part in, put in all but the left screw with the hook. I then plugged the wires in, and fastened the left screw with the hook positioned around the wires. I put the panel back on, fastenet the two screws that hold it in, and plugged the dishwasher back in. It's working beautifully. All in all it was about 20 minutes.

It required no tools. It took less than one minute to connect the spray arm to the bottom of the unit. Our dishwasher is working perfectly now.

I looked under and found that 2 brass nuts that secured the heater element through the base housing of the dishwasher has split down each side of the nut and no longer was tight enough to keep water from leaking around either end of the heater element. I powered down the dishwasher at the circuit breaker and then reached under the dishwasher and pulled away the 2 wires that were attached to each side of the heater element. I removed the two nuts and replaced them with the parts I ordered from partselect.com. I then put the appropriate wires back at the end of the heater element and ran the dishwasher to check for leaks. No leaks... it was fixed.

Per the recommendation from PartSelect.com, I purchased 2 new springs and 2 new clips - one set for each side. With the bottom cover plate removed below the door, I removed the remaining spring and clip and installed the 2 new springs and clips by hand. The door now opens with resistance and won't even stay completely opened unless the lower dishwasher tray is rolled out on it. it's like new.
This is the second repair to this dishwasher. Last year I replaced the door latch that had broken with a replacement purchased from partselect.com. That repair was also quite easy.
PartSelect's full part brochures by model made identifying the needed parts simple, and the replacement a breeze.
I even repaired my refrigerator ice maker a couple months ago after purchasing a new control module, and saving both a service fee and the probable full price for a new ice maker.
I've repaired my electric clothes dryer too, and hadn't even thought about all the repairs I'd done thanks to this website, until I told the story of my dishwasher.
I've probably saved $1000 already. Wow!
I love this site.