GDF520PGJ5BB General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

Took off the kickplate, diconnected the wires and removed the whole door by lifting straight up, removing spring wires from hinges. Once door is disconnected from the machine, removed one hinge by removing bolt. Slid gasket into place, secured hinge back in place, then reconnected wires at bottom, replaced hinge spring wires and slid door back down onto hinges. Now that we know how to do it, could do it in 15 min to half hour.

Didn't actually do the compete repair but got close. Pulled out dishwasher, disconnected and checked continuity on the existing heating element (about 16 ohms) the new element was also about 16 ohms. This indicates they both were working fine and no need for replacement. Next step would have been to swap the elements would have been simple. Tried to replace main board as well, still not the issue so giving up and replacing the dishwasher. It wasn't the high temp cut off thermostat either incidentally and no error codes in maintenance mode. Check continuity of your existing element before ordering to save aggravation.

Open the washer, remove the bottom dish rack, then twist off the bottom water sprayer. Use a screwdriver to remove the mounting/ stabilizing screws so you can slide out the dishwasher. Close the dishwasher and slide it out. Underneath at the back there are two wires powering the drying element, carefully remove them. Use an adjustable wrench to remove the two plastic mounting nuts for the drying element. Open the washer and remove the old drying element, and insert the new element. Reassemble the dishwasher in the reverse order if disassembly.

1. Turn off breaker supplying power to dishwasher in electrical panel
2. Open dishwasher door
3. Unscrew the screws that secure the dishwasher to the counter.
4. Tip dishwasher forward. Identify the non-functioning door latch. It looks exactly like the replacement. Unclip the wire harness from the door latch.
5. On the inside of the dishwasher, there are 2 screws directly under the door latch. Unscrew them and carefully set aside.
6. Remove old door latch.
7. Set new door latch in place. Holding securely, replace screws removed in step 5. Toward the end they get a little tougher to screw in.
8. Plug wire harness into new door latch.
9. Re-align dishwasher and re-secure to counter in previous position.
10. Test latch to make sure it closes properly.
11. Turn on breaker in electrical panel.
The dishwasher should now function properly.

1. Pull out dishwasher (not all the way) 2. Open the door. 3. Remove the white rope holding the door hinge (both sides) 4. Remove the door by pulling up when the door is open about 4-8 inches. 5. Lay the door on the floor ( put something under the door so not to scratch the front. 6. Remove the small bolt at the bottom of the door (both sides). 7. Slide the hinge back, up, then out. 8. Where the hinges were are another set of bolts, remove those (both sides) 9. Grab the top part of the door (the part with the buttons) and slide apart. 10. Remove the styrofoam carefully. 11. Disconnect the wiring harness. 12. Remove the 6 screws holding the Despenser tray in place. 13. Put in new Despenser tray and put everything back together.

repair under warranty for Home Depot. Ordered new controller, new sump manifold, new piranh clamp kit, new diverter passive main assy, installation took 6 months. Could not finish as GE had changed the diverter to a new design with the same part number that the repairman had no knowledge of and there is no part available for the same configuration of the one that went bad, after I called GE tech line they were not aware of updates. Giving me the same numbers. The new design works if you order a new conduit main. As the old one in the dishwasher will not connect to the new Diverter. New deverter no. WD19X25278 and the new main conduit is the same as the old configuration no.WD12X21681 . The repair people and parts people are not yet aware of the design change and availability of parts, as most are out of stock and no updated pictures of the new design. Repair warranty washed their hands of this and Home Depot after 6 months gave me credit of my full price I bought this for 3 yrs ago. Repairing myself and sell.

I fixed this issue by replacing the Dishwasher Tub Gasket (PS11774412) and the gasket on the bottom of the door (PS11700870). Replacing the tub gasket is very easy and straight forward. You just pull it off and put the new one on. The door gasket was much more complicated. See the steps required for replacement below:

The * indicates the part number in the diagram I am referencing

1. Remove the Toe Kick Assembly (*759)
2. Remove screws holding dishwasher to counter and pull the dishwasher out
3. With door shut, disengage the springs on both sides from the arm hinge assemblies *800 (I did this by taking the rope off the pulley hinge *734)
4. Disconnect the wire going from the dishwasher body to the door (there are two or three supports for the wire that need to be removed for it to come free)
5. Open the door about 15 degrees and pull the door upward (only one angle will work for removing the door)
6. Place the door on its front on the ground
7. Remove the two screws (*745) that hold one of the arm hinge assemblies to the door and pull the hinge away from the door (you don't need to pull it all of the way out)
8. Pull the old gasket out to the side and install the new gasket

Followed directions available on YouTube and the written instructions that came with the part. I made the repair more complicated than necessary as I did not notice that the jumpers come attached only to ONE pin out of the box. I took two tries to get the jumper settings right.

Replaced bad roller carrier with a new one.

We bought this GE dishwasher new. After 9 months, we started noticing the dishes were not cleaning well. Eventually, the machine just filled up with water and drained. The washing arms didn't work. I replaced fill valve, but that didn't solve it. A GE Tech ran a diagnostic and informed us the pump motor was bad. It was off warranty and repairs would be $300. However, he noted it was easy to do on my own. Two pipe clamps. The part from PartsSelect was 40% less than ordering from GE and was a GE part. Replacement took half an hour and that includes getting it wrong once (one connection leaked due to a bad job attaching the pipe clamp). Works like a champ now.

I watched the video on how to replace the parts and it was very easy. Unplug the power cord, remove the kick plate and insulation. Remove the small square metal cover, remove the 2 screws that hold the control board plate. Unplug the wires, put the control board plate on the counter and replace the board. Then put everything back in the order that you removed it. Plug in the power cord. Very easy to fix. I ordered the door latch but didn't need it so I will just keep it as a spare. It took me less than 45 minutes to replace the part. The problem was the control board. Parts select saved me about 400.00. Thanks, John.

just bolted on the new one and hooked up the hose

Took old valve assembly off and replaced with new assenbly

I got lucky and found the diagnostic test instructions tucked inside the washer under the kick plate. From there I ran the tests on each component until I narrowed it down to the pump. The pump cost me less than local dealers. The install went well. Watched the online videos to make sure I was doing it right. Was actually very easy and saved hundreds over a service call.

Replaced heating element. This was the path of least resistance but the problem persisted. I tried resetting the dishwasher but still nothing. My last resort is the circuit board. I checked the relays on the old board and they are fine so it must be something else on the circuit board. The dishwasher is not really that old (4 years) and everything else is fine. Just ordered the board so I really hope this fixes the problem.