GQB9930VG128 General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

There are eight guides that hold the rack rails in place. Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the top two guides on each side in order to remove the rack from the dishwasher. The plastic axles on the rack and the rollers snap on. Use the hammer and punch to bend the metal clip on one end of the rail. Remove the plastic end piece then slide the rollers out. Place two new rollers in the rail and put the plastic end piece on. Use the hammer and punch to bend the metal clip back into place. Snap the rails on the rack and set the rack on the guides in the dishwasher. Replace the top guide using the screwdriver, you will have to twist the rails in order get them in between the
guides.

Unsnapped clip,and moved it 90 degrees. Slip wheel and clip off. Installed clip on new wheel. replaced new wheel. The wheel did not come with a new clip and was not suggested on the parts list. The existing clip was still OK but if it was not, I would have had to order a clip and wait. All in all, a good experience.

Open the tiny plastic package in inserted the wheel onto the "axle". Opened the dishwasher, pulled out the bottom rack and snapped the wheel onto the rack. Done!

The wheels came with a clip on part that clipped to the rack and the wheel snapped into that clip. I am a woman and it was easy for me to do. Thanks to Parts Select for being an easy to use and navigate site, for quick shipment and for good directions with the parts. Sincerely, Teresa from Alabama.

Used the pliers to remove the broken roller. It came off in pieces. Slid new one on.

Cap on end of roller track was a bit of a challenge. It sort of twists & pulls off.

First removed four old wheels. then attached four new wheels to lower rack by pressing into slots.

Just pulled off the old wheel. I just had to push in the stud to the wheel and pushed it on to the rack of the dishwasher. Very easy repair! Only disappointing part was that it bothered me to have to purchase the stud with the wheel. I was told they only came as the set. I only needed to purchase that inside stud. My wheels were fine.

I had never done work on my dishwasher - I was a rookie in this area. Turns out the work itself was quite simple. Pulled the dishwasher out, turned it over, and was able to easily replace the motor and pump assembly. The drain tube was also an easy replace. A couple key notes:

1. I also purchased a new drain solenoid and impeller kit. Note that both of these items are already included in the Motor and Pump kit replacement. There is no need to by both, now I have extras.

2. The end of the drain tube has to be trimmed if you are routing the drain tube to an air gap mounted on your kitchen sink. You have to cut the large diameter end of the tube to get to the narrow portion that will fit on your air gap.

3. The first cycle you run with the new motor/pump assembly is noisy. When you first fire it up the components in the pump are all dry, and they squeal until the water gets to them. I initially thought I had done something wrong, but once the water started flowing all the peculiar sounds cleared up.

1. I removed the plastic stops from the ends of the upper rack slides.
2. Removed the upper rack.
3. Unclipped the old rollers from the rack.
4. Clipped the new rollers onto the rack.
5. Made a grunting noise so the wife could hear.
6. Walked away

I removed the four screws holding the screen and molded plastic cage inside the rear of the dishwasher to expose the check valve assembly. I then unscrewed the piston and nut assembly with my hand and replaced it with the new one. I found that the rubber cone shaped valve on the old piston and nut assembly was entirely disintegrated. This easy repair solved the problem.

This was a fairly simple repair. After disconnecting power to the dishwasher and removing the panel below the door, first had to remove a retainer C clip from the gate valve shaft. Then disconnected the linkage from the gate valve solenoid, removed two return springs and slid the gate valve contol arm off the shaft. Then removed the solenoid bracket that was fastened to the housing by 2 screws. This allowed access to the push on nut on the valve shaft. Removed the old push on nut which exposed the leaking seal. Removed the bad seal, then moistened and carefully slid on and seated the new drain valve shaft seal. Affixed new push on nut. Reinstalled the above mentioned parts that were removed. Problem solved - no more leak. Total cost $18.81 for factory GE parts plus $6.95 shipping. Thank you PartSelect.

Pulled the end cap off and replaced the wheel.
most of the parts were for future repairs

Removed door seal and corner baffles by hand (no tools required). Replaced same parts with minor tweaking to get proper alignment of new seal. Strongly recommended: remove dishwasher trays in order to get head and shoulders inside for proper view of seal placement.

Shut the power off. Removed 7 screws off from the back of the front door. Lifted the panel carefully from the door and rested on the front panel. Removed the old door gasket and Gasket insert and cleaned the area.
Soaked the new door Gasket in warm water for few minute before use.
Inserted the door Gasket starting from the top in the groves and pressed it down. It was little difficult to see at the back to insert the Gasket insert. Used small pocket mirror to insert the Gasket in place. Put back all the screws. Worked out good. No more leak.

popped old wheel off popped new one on
for the rack roller i took the ends off and slid old rollers off then slid new ones on.