GFSD551P00BB General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

Unsnapped clip,and moved it 90 degrees. Slip wheel and clip off. Installed clip on new wheel. replaced new wheel. The wheel did not come with a new clip and was not suggested on the parts list. The existing clip was still OK but if it was not, I would have had to order a clip and wait. All in all, a good experience.

Open the tiny plastic package in inserted the wheel onto the "axle". Opened the dishwasher, pulled out the bottom rack and snapped the wheel onto the rack. Done!

The wheels came with a clip on part that clipped to the rack and the wheel snapped into that clip. I am a woman and it was easy for me to do. Thanks to Parts Select for being an easy to use and navigate site, for quick shipment and for good directions with the parts. Sincerely, Teresa from Alabama.

First removed four old wheels. then attached four new wheels to lower rack by pressing into slots.

Just pulled off the old wheel. I just had to push in the stud to the wheel and pushed it on to the rack of the dishwasher. Very easy repair! Only disappointing part was that it bothered me to have to purchase the stud with the wheel. I was told they only came as the set. I only needed to purchase that inside stud. My wheels were fine.

This was a fairly simple repair. After disconnecting power to the dishwasher and removing the panel below the door, first had to remove a retainer C clip from the gate valve shaft. Then disconnected the linkage from the gate valve solenoid, removed two return springs and slid the gate valve contol arm off the shaft. Then removed the solenoid bracket that was fastened to the housing by 2 screws. This allowed access to the push on nut on the valve shaft. Removed the old push on nut which exposed the leaking seal. Removed the bad seal, then moistened and carefully slid on and seated the new drain valve shaft seal. Affixed new push on nut. Reinstalled the above mentioned parts that were removed. Problem solved - no more leak. Total cost $18.81 for factory GE parts plus $6.95 shipping. Thank you PartSelect.

First off on this model, if one of the telescopic spray arm weld assembly comes out it is NOT repairable you have to replace the whole part.
The assembly on my model number was simple you do NOT have to PRY anything out...(I broke the base spray arm trying to shove a screw driver into the Spray arm weld.(You could try this but chances are the plastic will break and I recommend replacing both parts why not???.)
There are two bolts on the sump protector basket that has to be removed first. They are 1/4 inch.
Once that cover is free there is a bolt (also 1/4 inch) on the base spray arm it is easy to see but hard to get to I used a very thin open ended wrench
1/3 turn at a time till I could get the socket on it.
Next there is a rubber gromet like thingy that just pulls loose remove it also.
Next take the spanner wrench (I used one with a rubber belt) wrap around base spray arm and turn counter clockwise it just unscrews.

reassembly is simple but this is GE so I inspected the sump and found one medal impeller and one black screw at the bottom!!!!!
The impeller is threaded and just screws onto the shaft (look at the diagrams on this web site to see placement.)
Throw the screw away it does nothing except if left there jacks up the impeller I am guessing it fell out of some factory workers pocket.
If after you put all the parts back in and the washer does not drain check your reassembly if you don't line the parts up just right the unit will not drain.
Don't forget the rubber grommet (not sure what it does but it's easy to replace after all is assembled) also there is a metal washer that is inbetween the base spray arm and the spray arm weld put it back before you click those two parts together it protect the plastic from wearing it is a bearing!!
If you found this site you are doing really good This site had all the diagrams I was looking for I love you guys you so rock!!! I wish the diagrams were bigger but they were adequate. GE 's site was no help and I doubt I will ever buy another one from them.
Good luck just remember look at the parts diagrams before attempting the repair.

Completely remove the door from the dishwasher - It's easier to work on this way.

First the spring tension is NOT that critical - the spring just needs to not be mangled and really out of shape. Unless someone has taken a pair of pliers to it, it should be o-k
to use. I even mangled up the slot in the lever with a pair of pliers to try and jeery-rig it and it still works fine - you MUST at least have some resemblance of a groove here for the spring to
catch.
1) hook the hook on the inside of the lever where the slanted groove is on the cam. (see your great diagram)

Put all the pieces together at this point, shaft,spring and lever

2) There are two sets of grooves that correspond to matching notches in both the lever and the dispenser shaft. Make sure these match up to one another.
3) Using a pair of hemostats or tiny pliers pull the other side of the spring clockwise - gently - until you can hook it on the stop that is on the inside door. There will be some
tension of the spring around the shaft to cause the hook to engage to the slot in the plastic lever.

[*]This is where MOST of my problems were at:

4) Test the dispenser door to make sure when you close it, it springs back up. It WILL NOT hold when the door is off.
[*][I was trying to get the dispenser door to stay shut while the door was removed from the washer - this will NOT happen]
5) If number four is happening above, attach the door to the dishwasher.

Very Important: The door will only stay closed when the dishwasher is in the OFF position. Otherwise it will spring open when you try to shut it, because it is suppose to because at this time
in the cycle the detergent would be dispensing - hence the door being OPEN and the door not latching.

You'll need to remove the front toe kick and (if installed, the GE Profile baffling for additional silencing action).

You will need to disconnect the right wire connection to access the right screw (and may need to use a flat head screwdriver). You can then remove the 2 screws that hold the Valve Water Inlet on.

You will then need to loosen and the hose clamp that attaches the water line to the Valve Water Inlet. You may need to force it undone since the rubber connection is pretty secure around the water tube inlet.

Disconnect the plastic wire housing from the Valve Water Inlet and you should now have the Valve Water Inlet disconnected.

Reverse the order and reconnect everything and you should be good to go!

Double-check for any leaks prior to pushing everything back in :)

I looked at the gasket for the door, and noticed that it was flattened out and also noticed that there were two other seals at the lower left and right corners that were also hard and flattened. I found the parts for my dishwasher on this site and ordered them. Once I received them, I removed the old ones. They just came right out, and I inserted the new ones in the same spot. It was then that I noticed that there is another gasket for the door, that goes at the bottom of the inside of the door. The gasket for the door goes all the way around the outside, except for about a 4 inch section at the bottom of the door, right in the middle. I realized that I probably needed to get a new one of those too, so I ordered that part. I am now waiting on that small, 4 inch door gasket.

Removed 7 screws holding "inner door" in place ( note: 2 bottom screws are different than the rest...keep separate).....remove rinse aid plug....press "tabs" inward to release rinse aid container. ( in this instance....the gasket had failed...which was "part" of the reason dishwasher was leaking during operation)

install new rinse aid container ...making sure that "trip arm" is positioned correctly........and press into place. ( Tabs should expand when container is properly positioned...creating a tight seal).....reuse old rinse aid filler plug.

Replace "inner door" cover....tighten screws.....

remove faulty tub corner baffles....place new ones in corresponding positions ( the baffles form a suction .....to stay in place....no adhesive needed)

Close door and operate as usual........no more leaks!

This is a super easy "no brainer"...that would have cost about half the price of a new dish washer ...had I hired a "professional" to do the repairs!!!!

Siimply removed the rack and replaced the wheel assembly. Very easy

Very easy about 5 min replacement, Checked electrical conductivity to verify I had a bad solinoid, after I received the new part. I removed and replaced part by only removing and re-installed 2 screws and spring. Dishwasher worked like new.

unscrewed 2 screws found on upper part of dishwasher that connected hose to spray arm found inside of dishwasher to remove hose. gently squeezed rubber gasket to work it into the hole found at the top center of the dishwasher, made sure rubber disc shaped gasket was seated properly into spray arm, screw spray arm back into place. The job was much easier than I thought It took about 20 minutes it saved me from buying a new dishwasher, the delivery of the hose was faster than the speed of light it took about i business day, I order the hose on saturday it arrived tuesday evening. Thanks for your excellent service

Went to www.PartSelect.com. Part was easy to locate online with GE model number and illustraion online. They shipped the parts in two days and I put the new parts on by hand. Saved a $135 service call from GE. One part came in broken from the factory. Upon calling customer servce, PartSelect sent out a replacement part the next day - no problem. Great service, would be happy to use again - Thank you!