CDT765SSF0SS General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

We tried cleaning out the filter and it clogged with a huge amount of gunk. We removed the gunk, scrubbed the filter, and tried running the dishwasher, but still no water. That took over an hour (not counting the time the dishwasher spent running). Then we tried your diagnosis center and it pointed to the flood switch or the water valve. I extracted the flood switch (another 30-60 minutes) to check it, and it also contained gunk and (significantly) did not rattle, which made me suspect the flood switch was the problem, so I ordered one. Once the replacement arrived, I checked it and the flood switch rattled, confirming that it should work properly. I spent 30-45 minutes installing it, plus the filter assembly and racks I had to remove to access it. Ran the dishwasher and everything came out sparkling clean. I don't know where the gunk came from, but if you aren't getting water and the filter is full of gunk, check the flood switch.

1. Turn off breaker supplying power to dishwasher in electrical panel
2. Open dishwasher door
3. Unscrew the screws that secure the dishwasher to the counter.
4. Tip dishwasher forward. Identify the non-functioning door latch. It looks exactly like the replacement. Unclip the wire harness from the door latch.
5. On the inside of the dishwasher, there are 2 screws directly under the door latch. Unscrew them and carefully set aside.
6. Remove old door latch.
7. Set new door latch in place. Holding securely, replace screws removed in step 5. Toward the end they get a little tougher to screw in.
8. Plug wire harness into new door latch.
9. Re-align dishwasher and re-secure to counter in previous position.
10. Test latch to make sure it closes properly.
11. Turn on breaker in electrical panel.
The dishwasher should now function properly.

Ran the diagnostic code test and no alarms turned on. Ran the heater test and it didn't turn on. I figured it was either the flood switch or the heating element itself. Removed and cleaned the flood switch and still nothing. Replaced the old flood switch and now it works like a charm. It took a minute to run tests and figure out a plan of action, but after ordering and receiving the part it was a quick operation to replace the old flood switch. Kill the power. Remove lower basket. Remove lower arm. Remove the coarse filter and the fine filter. Dry up water in bottom of dishwasher. Use 1/4" nut driver to remove two screws holding flood switch in place. Unplug old switch. Plug in new one. And put everything back. Saved a few bucks for sure. If I can do it, you can do it!

1. Remove lower dishwasher rack.
2. Remove flat course filter screen in bottom of dishwasher by unscrewing the 2 hand screws at the rear of the screen. Remove the round fine filter (at the front of the course screen) by rotating counter-clockwise by hand.
3. Remove both the fine and course screens exposing the 4 inch tall, skinny, round float valve. DO NOT rotate the float switch--remove the float switch by pulling it straight up.
4. Remove the electrical plug on the bottom of the float switch.
5. Install new float switch taking care to remove the old O-ring and ensuring the new O-ring is properly located at the bottom of the new float switch.
6. Follow instructions in reverse to complete the reinstallation.

Removed the screen cover and then removed two bolts with nut driver and removed white plastic retaining piece. Pulled flood switch out of housing (raise approximately 2 inches) then unfasten electrical plug. New part connects to electrical plug (pnly can fit one way so no problem with orientation). Pushed floid switch bsck into lace and attached white plastic retainer with two bolts and then set screen cover back. Very simple and easy.

The service lady looked up possible trouble items and narrowed it down to the flood switch. Being the most likely cause, I ordered a new one. I removed both trays, the lower sprayer, and both screens. The flood switch has an electric plug on the bottom of it that just pulls off. Just as with other appliance repairs, I actually got the old flood switch to work again before trying the new one. I should have tried to free up the float before ordering the new one. But in case this happens again, I’ll just put the new one in.

Shut off power at breaker, remove two screws anchoring DW to counter top . Slide DW out far enough to access door latch, disconnect electrical wiring plug, remove two Phillips head screws, install new door latch, repeat installation in reverse order.

the actual gasket tub seal was easy, 10 minutes. The trim tub gaskets were a pain because I had to uninstall the dishwasher (not plumbing or electrical) then pull it out from the cabinet, remove old trim and re-install. Re-leveled dishwasher, screwed into side of cabinets but it still leaks. Can't figure out where but after replacing all the trim and gaskets its very frustrating.

the design of this part is easy to break when closing the top rack.

there is a hub that clicks in place and a spinner within this that makes the water spray evenly on the top of the tub of the dishwasher

the part broke when closing the rack [a dish too tall hit it]

it took less than 5 minutes to replace as the part just clicks into two edge spots i did this without removing the rack or even looking into the tub all by feel

Process of elimination and a visit to my local repair store told me it was wise to try the tub gasket, and according to partselect.com, it solved the problem a majority of the time. My local repair dealer agreed: Try it. They agreed because for them to replace a lower door gasket AND the $10 tub gasket... if they came out, the service call and parts would equal half the cost to replace the whole dishwasher. So I bought a tub gasket from partselect.com and replaced the old one. It worked, it was easy, so if your same make & model is leaking? Try it first. That's my advice.

Water valve replacement was easy. Turned off water supply valve. Unscrewed water supply from valve on dishwasher, removed 2 water hoses , that feed top and bottom sprayer’s And reinstalled everything opposite of removal. 5min job

It was relatively easy to fix. I unscrewed the mounting screws from the cabinet, slide the dishwasher out to access the pump under the dishwasher, I did raise the dishwasher on the left side and steadied with a stool to make access to the pump fitting easier. Then I loosed both clamps at the ends of the hose ie. from the dishwasher pump and the connection to the sink drain line, pulled the clamp off of the end that connects to the pump and placed it on the new hose connection, I removed the old hose, connected the new one and tightened the drain line connections. I placed the hose in the hose holders on the side of the dishwasher slid the dishwasher back into place and secured it in place with the mounting screws.

Removed two latch screws and one electrical connection, Removed
two screws that hold D/W to countertop, pulled D/W out enough to remove the old latch, install new latch, push D/W back into place, rescrew to counter top and rescrew the two latch screws. This problem happened since new, had repairmen twice and they did nothing but move the dishwasher stating it needed alignment, never mentioned this easy repair....

Looked up the replacement part on YouTube, watched a video and followed the instructions. Part ordered was the correct part and the video showed how to access for replacing. Watched a different video for hooking up the disconnected springs that allow the door to lower and close smoothly. Whole process for repairs was less than 30 minutes.

Replaced old gasket with new one. More difficult than expected, because new gasket was much stiffer than old one. Also, the yellow centering spot on gasket (to line up with top latch) was nearly impossible to see. Unfortunately, this did not solve the problem for me, so money was wasted. Bought new dishwasher.