GDT550HSD6SS General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

We tried cleaning out the filter and it clogged with a huge amount of gunk. We removed the gunk, scrubbed the filter, and tried running the dishwasher, but still no water. That took over an hour (not counting the time the dishwasher spent running). Then we tried your diagnosis center and it pointed to the flood switch or the water valve. I extracted the flood switch (another 30-60 minutes) to check it, and it also contained gunk and (significantly) did not rattle, which made me suspect the flood switch was the problem, so I ordered one. Once the replacement arrived, I checked it and the flood switch rattled, confirming that it should work properly. I spent 30-45 minutes installing it, plus the filter assembly and racks I had to remove to access it. Ran the dishwasher and everything came out sparkling clean. I don't know where the gunk came from, but if you aren't getting water and the filter is full of gunk, check the flood switch.

1. Turn off breaker supplying power to dishwasher in electrical panel
2. Open dishwasher door
3. Unscrew the screws that secure the dishwasher to the counter.
4. Tip dishwasher forward. Identify the non-functioning door latch. It looks exactly like the replacement. Unclip the wire harness from the door latch.
5. On the inside of the dishwasher, there are 2 screws directly under the door latch. Unscrew them and carefully set aside.
6. Remove old door latch.
7. Set new door latch in place. Holding securely, replace screws removed in step 5. Toward the end they get a little tougher to screw in.
8. Plug wire harness into new door latch.
9. Re-align dishwasher and re-secure to counter in previous position.
10. Test latch to make sure it closes properly.
11. Turn on breaker in electrical panel.
The dishwasher should now function properly.

Ran the diagnostic code test and no alarms turned on. Ran the heater test and it didn't turn on. I figured it was either the flood switch or the heating element itself. Removed and cleaned the flood switch and still nothing. Replaced the old flood switch and now it works like a charm. It took a minute to run tests and figure out a plan of action, but after ordering and receiving the part it was a quick operation to replace the old flood switch. Kill the power. Remove lower basket. Remove lower arm. Remove the coarse filter and the fine filter. Dry up water in bottom of dishwasher. Use 1/4" nut driver to remove two screws holding flood switch in place. Unplug old switch. Plug in new one. And put everything back. Saved a few bucks for sure. If I can do it, you can do it!

Unplugged the dishwasher and turned off the water. In order to pull the dishwasher out I had to remove disconnect the waterline. Opened the dishwasher door to remove the screws attached under the counter holding the dishwasher in place. Once removed I pulled the dishwasher out of the under counter pocket far enough that I could access the rear connections to the heating element. Carefully disconnected the wires connected to the heating element and then loosened the large nuts securing the heating element. Once the nuts were removed I disengaged the element from the holders and removed it from the dishwasher. Installed the new element in place engaging it into the holders inside the dishwasher. Then moved back to the rear of the dishwasher installing the nuts that were removed earlier on the new element and reconnected the cables.

I ordered my new heating element prior to checking the continuity of the old one. I checked the continuity of the old one once it was removed and it was ok, not great but still acceptable so I knew the new element wasn't going to fix the issue, but installed it anyways. My issue was actually the float switch, so if you want to be sure of your issue, remove the current heating element from your dishwasher and check the continuity before ordering if you want to save some money.

1. Remove lower dishwasher rack.
2. Remove flat course filter screen in bottom of dishwasher by unscrewing the 2 hand screws at the rear of the screen. Remove the round fine filter (at the front of the course screen) by rotating counter-clockwise by hand.
3. Remove both the fine and course screens exposing the 4 inch tall, skinny, round float valve. DO NOT rotate the float switch--remove the float switch by pulling it straight up.
4. Remove the electrical plug on the bottom of the float switch.
5. Install new float switch taking care to remove the old O-ring and ensuring the new O-ring is properly located at the bottom of the new float switch.
6. Follow instructions in reverse to complete the reinstallation.

Parts Select has excellent video instruction. they are way better than I could describe. the repair went smoothly. the heating element wasn't the issue. and it's may not be yours either. I found that the flood switch was the problem part number PS8690623. It's located under the filter screen in the bottom Yes that long grey plastic thing under the screen. It's held in by two 1/4 inch screws. Use a wet dry vacuum or towels to dry up the water in the sump. ABOVE ALL don't drop the screws. You'll be taking the pump apart if you do. Gently lift out the flood switch. There will be wires plugged into the base. With a flat screwdriver gently pop off the white plug from the green base. The plug only goes on one way reassemble in reverse order.

When the part arrived, I was pretty sure it was the wrong part. The replacement part had an LED on it -- a box that stuck up about an inch above the circuit board. My dishwasher did not have an LED readout and I was pretty sure the LED would not fit in the space that was available. I was reluctant to take the dishwasher apart until I had the right part. The people at Part Select were helpful and together we looked at the schematic which did, indeed, seem to show a box sticking up from the circuit board. A YouTube video showed me how to take the door off its hinges, unscrew 4 screws and slide the inside of the door upwards. The circuit board went in fairly easily. There was space for the LED (even though it still doesn't show through the top) and now the lights work.

Replaced bad roller carrier with a new one.

The part simply snapped in and worked perfectly.

Removed the screen cover and then removed two bolts with nut driver and removed white plastic retaining piece. Pulled flood switch out of housing (raise approximately 2 inches) then unfasten electrical plug. New part connects to electrical plug (pnly can fit one way so no problem with orientation). Pushed floid switch bsck into lace and attached white plastic retainer with two bolts and then set screen cover back. Very simple and easy.

Repair went fine, getting the right pump was the problem. I started with my local appliance parts house, they ordered part came in 3 days. Upon picking it up I noticed that the pump was shaped slightly different and the electrical hook up was totally different. Asking the parts guy what happened he said they must have sent the wrong pump. Returned it for credit and ordered it again. Four days later the same exact thing occurs. Parts guy credits my account and says better go directly to GE. Wait 10 days for GE, for this part and once again same odd looking pump with wrong electrical plug. My son who is a welder by trade asks me if there is a packet of parts in carton and yes there is. He says that perhaps there is a converter for the electrical. That was the solution no one told us that pump was universal and needed the adapter. Not even the 2 different tecks at first house. Perhaps that should be stated in the part would have saved us tons of time. Thanks D

I checked all the drain lines and filter for blockage. All looked good. I unplugged the unit and unscrewed the two screws adhereing the dishwasker to the counter. I shopvacced the water out of the bottom of the unit, slid it out, and carefully placed it on its back to access the pump. I unplugged the power to the pump, removed the intake and outake ring fasteners. Carefully removed the pump and inserted the new part, mopping up water as I went. Replace the rings, plugged in power to the pump, righted the unit and put it back. Replaced filter with the one that came with the kit.

The service lady looked up possible trouble items and narrowed it down to the flood switch. Being the most likely cause, I ordered a new one. I removed both trays, the lower sprayer, and both screens. The flood switch has an electric plug on the bottom of it that just pulls off. Just as with other appliance repairs, I actually got the old flood switch to work again before trying the new one. I should have tried to free up the float before ordering the new one. But in case this happens again, I’ll just put the new one in.

Thanks to this site for saving me about 150.00.This is my third repair with parts from your company. Thank you.

damage to gasket (had a slit in the area of the utensii baskets.
causing lower right corner of gasket to come out. caused leakage to floor from the lower right corner of door...

As I am 77 yrs of age I was leary of diy but thanks to the reps of
"Parts Select" I actually was able to put in the new gasket myself.It did take some time and lots of patience as it had to be seated correctly..I also had to make sure the new gasket was in the groove as it is supposed to be.