The wheels on the lower rack of your dishwasher allow for the rack to slide in and out smoothly. If this is not happening, it may be necessary to replace one or more of the wheels. This kit includes 8...
The rack slide end cap attaches to the rails of the upper dishrack, to prevent it from sliding all the way out. It is a one-inch white plastic part that can break over time. This might be the part you...
The corner tub baffle is made of black plastic, and is used to prevent water from leaking out of the dishwasher while it is operating. This genuine OEM part is for the lower right-hand side of your di...
This is a genuine OEM corner tub baffle for the lower left-hand side of your dishwasher. It is made of black plastic, and is used to prevent water from leaking out of the dishwasher while it is operat...
This water inlet valve is an authentic OEM part for your dishwasher. If can be found behind the lower kickplate panel in either the left or right corner. The valve has a solenoid that opens or closes ...
This push on nut is for your dishwasher or refrigerator. As the name suggests, it pushes into place, rather than being screwed in. It is approximately half an inch in diameter and is made of stainless steel.
This interlock switch is a genuine OEM part that can be used in a variety of appliances like dishwashers and dryers. The switch is also known as a belt switch and works as a simple on and off mechanis...
The hinge link on your dishwasher connects the spring to the dishwasher door hinge. If the hinge link becomes cracked or damaged, you may not be able to shut or lock your dishwasher door properly. In ...
This valve opens in order for the water to drain out of the dishwasher.
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Arlene
October 20, 2021
Motor is humming and it doesn’t take all the water out of my dishwasher.
For model number GSC3500D45BB
Hello Arlene, Thank you for the question. We suggest checking to make sure there is no clogs or debris preventing the drain plump from draining the water. Check the Pump and the Drain Hose. You can also check the Drain Solenoid. It can be tested with a Multimeter. When your multi-meter is set the R x 1 setting, place each of the meter's probes on one terminal each. When the probes touch the terminals, the reading should change from a reading of infinity to a reading of approximately 40 ohms. If you receive a reading of infinity, or a reading that is no where near 40 ohms, then you will need to replace the solenoid. Where the reading is near 40 ohms the drain solenoid and bracket assembly should be fine. We hope this helps!
Unsnapped clip,and moved it 90 degrees. Slip wheel and clip off. Installed clip on new wheel. replaced new wheel. The wheel did not come with a new clip and was not suggested on the parts list. The existing clip was still OK but if it was not, I would have had to order a clip and wait. All in all, a good experience.
The wheels came with a clip on part that clipped to the rack and the wheel snapped into that clip. I am a woman and it was easy for me to do. Thanks to Parts Select for being an easy to use and navigate site, for quick shipment and for good directions with the parts. Sincerely, Teresa from Alabama.
Remove the front coverfrom the machine. This is done by removing the 3 screws at the bottom of the panel. The panel then drops down and pulls straight off. The pump is located on the front right wall of the of the machine. You will notice a 2-3 inch diamete threaded cap on the right side of the front wall of the machine. This is the f
... Read moreront of the pump and access to the filter. Place a large bucket under this cap and slowly loosen the cap. All of the water remaining in the machine will begin to drain (this could be a lot of water. Do not remove the cap completely so that you can quickly stop the flow of water if needed). Once all water is drained from the appliance, Disconnect the two hoses from the pump using a pair of pliers to looses the presure clamps, sliding the clamps back an then pulling off the hoses (be careful of any remaining water in the hoses). Then remove the two screws from the rear base of the pump that secure it to the bottom floor panel of the washer. Slide the pump slightly to the rear to free it from the fittings on the front wall of the machine and the lift the pump up. At this point, firmly pull out the wiring harness plugged into the top right side of the pump. Install the new pump by plugging in the wiring harness and resecuring the pump. Plug in the machine and run on the rinse and spin cycle to test.