GDF520PGJ0WW General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

Took off the kickplate, diconnected the wires and removed the whole door by lifting straight up, removing spring wires from hinges. Once door is disconnected from the machine, removed one hinge by removing bolt. Slid gasket into place, secured hinge back in place, then reconnected wires at bottom, replaced hinge spring wires and slid door back down onto hinges. Now that we know how to do it, could do it in 15 min to half hour.

We tried cleaning out the filter and it clogged with a huge amount of gunk. We removed the gunk, scrubbed the filter, and tried running the dishwasher, but still no water. That took over an hour (not counting the time the dishwasher spent running). Then we tried your diagnosis center and it pointed to the flood switch or the water valve. I extracted the flood switch (another 30-60 minutes) to check it, and it also contained gunk and (significantly) did not rattle, which made me suspect the flood switch was the problem, so I ordered one. Once the replacement arrived, I checked it and the flood switch rattled, confirming that it should work properly. I spent 30-45 minutes installing it, plus the filter assembly and racks I had to remove to access it. Ran the dishwasher and everything came out sparkling clean. I don't know where the gunk came from, but if you aren't getting water and the filter is full of gunk, check the flood switch.

1. Turn off breaker supplying power to dishwasher in electrical panel
2. Open dishwasher door
3. Unscrew the screws that secure the dishwasher to the counter.
4. Tip dishwasher forward. Identify the non-functioning door latch. It looks exactly like the replacement. Unclip the wire harness from the door latch.
5. On the inside of the dishwasher, there are 2 screws directly under the door latch. Unscrew them and carefully set aside.
6. Remove old door latch.
7. Set new door latch in place. Holding securely, replace screws removed in step 5. Toward the end they get a little tougher to screw in.
8. Plug wire harness into new door latch.
9. Re-align dishwasher and re-secure to counter in previous position.
10. Test latch to make sure it closes properly.
11. Turn on breaker in electrical panel.
The dishwasher should now function properly.

Ran the diagnostic code test and no alarms turned on. Ran the heater test and it didn't turn on. I figured it was either the flood switch or the heating element itself. Removed and cleaned the flood switch and still nothing. Replaced the old flood switch and now it works like a charm. It took a minute to run tests and figure out a plan of action, but after ordering and receiving the part it was a quick operation to replace the old flood switch. Kill the power. Remove lower basket. Remove lower arm. Remove the coarse filter and the fine filter. Dry up water in bottom of dishwasher. Use 1/4" nut driver to remove two screws holding flood switch in place. Unplug old switch. Plug in new one. And put everything back. Saved a few bucks for sure. If I can do it, you can do it!

repair under warranty for Home Depot. Ordered new controller, new sump manifold, new piranh clamp kit, new diverter passive main assy, installation took 6 months. Could not finish as GE had changed the diverter to a new design with the same part number that the repairman had no knowledge of and there is no part available for the same configuration of the one that went bad, after I called GE tech line they were not aware of updates. Giving me the same numbers. The new design works if you order a new conduit main. As the old one in the dishwasher will not connect to the new Diverter. New deverter no. WD19X25278 and the new main conduit is the same as the old configuration no.WD12X21681 . The repair people and parts people are not yet aware of the design change and availability of parts, as most are out of stock and no updated pictures of the new design. Repair warranty washed their hands of this and Home Depot after 6 months gave me credit of my full price I bought this for 3 yrs ago. Repairing myself and sell.

Unplugged the dishwasher and turned off the water. In order to pull the dishwasher out I had to remove disconnect the waterline. Opened the dishwasher door to remove the screws attached under the counter holding the dishwasher in place. Once removed I pulled the dishwasher out of the under counter pocket far enough that I could access the rear connections to the heating element. Carefully disconnected the wires connected to the heating element and then loosened the large nuts securing the heating element. Once the nuts were removed I disengaged the element from the holders and removed it from the dishwasher. Installed the new element in place engaging it into the holders inside the dishwasher. Then moved back to the rear of the dishwasher installing the nuts that were removed earlier on the new element and reconnected the cables.

I ordered my new heating element prior to checking the continuity of the old one. I checked the continuity of the old one once it was removed and it was ok, not great but still acceptable so I knew the new element wasn't going to fix the issue, but installed it anyways. My issue was actually the float switch, so if you want to be sure of your issue, remove the current heating element from your dishwasher and check the continuity before ordering if you want to save some money.

Parts Select has excellent video instruction. they are way better than I could describe. the repair went smoothly. the heating element wasn't the issue. and it's may not be yours either. I found that the flood switch was the problem part number PS8690623. It's located under the filter screen in the bottom Yes that long grey plastic thing under the screen. It's held in by two 1/4 inch screws. Use a wet dry vacuum or towels to dry up the water in the sump. ABOVE ALL don't drop the screws. You'll be taking the pump apart if you do. Gently lift out the flood switch. There will be wires plugged into the base. With a flat screwdriver gently pop off the white plug from the green base. The plug only goes on one way reassemble in reverse order.

1. Remove lower dishwasher rack.
2. Remove flat course filter screen in bottom of dishwasher by unscrewing the 2 hand screws at the rear of the screen. Remove the round fine filter (at the front of the course screen) by rotating counter-clockwise by hand.
3. Remove both the fine and course screens exposing the 4 inch tall, skinny, round float valve. DO NOT rotate the float switch--remove the float switch by pulling it straight up.
4. Remove the electrical plug on the bottom of the float switch.
5. Install new float switch taking care to remove the old O-ring and ensuring the new O-ring is properly located at the bottom of the new float switch.
6. Follow instructions in reverse to complete the reinstallation.

I fixed this issue by replacing the Dishwasher Tub Gasket (PS11774412) and the gasket on the bottom of the door (PS11700870). Replacing the tub gasket is very easy and straight forward. You just pull it off and put the new one on. The door gasket was much more complicated. See the steps required for replacement below:

The * indicates the part number in the diagram I am referencing

1. Remove the Toe Kick Assembly (*759)
2. Remove screws holding dishwasher to counter and pull the dishwasher out
3. With door shut, disengage the springs on both sides from the arm hinge assemblies *800 (I did this by taking the rope off the pulley hinge *734)
4. Disconnect the wire going from the dishwasher body to the door (there are two or three supports for the wire that need to be removed for it to come free)
5. Open the door about 15 degrees and pull the door upward (only one angle will work for removing the door)
6. Place the door on its front on the ground
7. Remove the two screws (*745) that hold one of the arm hinge assemblies to the door and pull the hinge away from the door (you don't need to pull it all of the way out)
8. Pull the old gasket out to the side and install the new gasket

Replaced bad roller carrier with a new one.

We bought this GE dishwasher new. After 9 months, we started noticing the dishes were not cleaning well. Eventually, the machine just filled up with water and drained. The washing arms didn't work. I replaced fill valve, but that didn't solve it. A GE Tech ran a diagnostic and informed us the pump motor was bad. It was off warranty and repairs would be $300. However, he noted it was easy to do on my own. Two pipe clamps. The part from PartsSelect was 40% less than ordering from GE and was a GE part. Replacement took half an hour and that includes getting it wrong once (one connection leaked due to a bad job attaching the pipe clamp). Works like a champ now.

Turn off water supply, turn of power to dishwasher, remove mounting screws, slide dishwasher out of opening, place a pan under water supply valve, remove water line, remove screws holding the valve in place, disconnect electrical connector. Reverse process to install new valve.

Removed the screen cover and then removed two bolts with nut driver and removed white plastic retaining piece. Pulled flood switch out of housing (raise approximately 2 inches) then unfasten electrical plug. New part connects to electrical plug (pnly can fit one way so no problem with orientation). Pushed floid switch bsck into lace and attached white plastic retainer with two bolts and then set screen cover back. Very simple and easy.

just bolted on the new one and hooked up the hose

Took old valve assembly off and replaced with new assenbly