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GLD5660V00SS
GLD5660V00SS General Electric Dishwasher
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$42.85
This is a basket for washing flatware or silverware in your dishwasher.
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$45.00
This water inlet valve is an authentic OEM part for your dishwasher. If can be found behind the lower kickplate panel in either the left or right corner. The valve has a solenoid that opens or closes ...
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This part releases the detergent and rinse aid into the dishwasher.
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Designed for select GE and compatible dishwashers, this lower dishrack holds dishes securely with sturdy wire tines and includes rollers for smooth movement. It’s built to handle heat and moisture and...
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$52.50
This is a handle actuator for your dishwasher. It is made of black plastic, and is sold individually. The handle actuator is found in the control panel, and it releases the door latch when you lift th...
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This OEM-compatible screw is designed for use with many GE dishwashers. Measuring 8-16 HXW and 1/2" in length, this stainless steel screw secures the middle spray arm hub to the upper rack assembly, e...
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$27.28
This switch interlock is found on your dishwasher door, and it must be actuated for the dishwasher to start. If your dishwasher door does not close properly, or if the machine will not start, you may ...
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$52.50
This is the tub gasket replacement for your dishwasher. The tub gasket fits around the perimeter of the door and forms a seal that prevents the dishwasher from leaking when it is filled with water. If...
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$52.50
The circulation pump adapter, or pump adapter assembly connects the circulation pump to the tub of your dishwasher. If your dishwasher is leaking around this adapter, check the connection to ensure ev...
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$18.54
This is a replacement spring plunger for your dishwasher. The spring is approximately 1 inch in length and is sold individually. The spring plunger helps your door latch correctly, and if the spring i...
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Common Problems and Symptoms for GLD5660V00SS
Viewing 10 of 10Leaking
Fixed by these parts
How to fix it
Door latch failure
Fixed by these parts
How to fix it
Not cleaning dishes properly
Fixed by these parts
How to fix it
Will Not Start
Fixed by these parts
How to fix it
Will not dispense detergent
Fixed by these parts
How to fix it
Will not fill with water
Fixed by these parts
How to fix it
Not draining
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How to fix it
Noisy
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How to fix it
Not drying dishes properly
Fixed by these parts
How to fix it
Door won’t close
Fixed by these parts
How to fix it
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- Customer:
- James from Naperville, IL
- Parts Used:
- WD12X10163
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
soap door latch broken, wouldn't hold soap for later release in middle of cycle like it was supposed to.
Turned off power to unit, 'cuz it has a solenoid lead to open the soap door.
Removed the phillips head screws that held the door together. The screw are located on the inside edge of the door, there are 10-12 of them.
Spearated the door shells carefully, trying not to disturb the location of the wiring in the middle of the doo ... Read more r.
Found the 4 screws that hold the module assembly to the door from the inside, and removed them.
Popped the assembly out, cleaned the gasket-seat area and placed the new one in place.
Carefully tightened the 4 screws. It is easy to over-tighten them, so only turn them until you feel they are snug. Let the gasket do the work.
Attached the two solenoid control wires in the same positions they were in before they were removed from the old assembly.
Re-assembled the door halves, again taking care to not over-tighten the phillips-head screws. One got "spun" and I removed it and re-set it into some epoxy.
Returned power to the dishwasher, and stopped washing dishes by hand.
Note: the latch is now made with a plastic that is more dense, and likely will not fail as soon as the original one did. I think GE learned something about the durability of their component plastics since this was originally built.
Removed the phillips head screws that held the door together. The screw are located on the inside edge of the door, there are 10-12 of them.
Spearated the door shells carefully, trying not to disturb the location of the wiring in the middle of the doo ... Read more r.
Found the 4 screws that hold the module assembly to the door from the inside, and removed them.
Popped the assembly out, cleaned the gasket-seat area and placed the new one in place.
Carefully tightened the 4 screws. It is easy to over-tighten them, so only turn them until you feel they are snug. Let the gasket do the work.
Attached the two solenoid control wires in the same positions they were in before they were removed from the old assembly.
Re-assembled the door halves, again taking care to not over-tighten the phillips-head screws. One got "spun" and I removed it and re-set it into some epoxy.
Returned power to the dishwasher, and stopped washing dishes by hand.
Note: the latch is now made with a plastic that is more dense, and likely will not fail as soon as the original one did. I think GE learned something about the durability of their component plastics since this was originally built.
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- Customer:
- Jason from Jersey City, NJ
- Parts Used:
- WD05X10010
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
Heating element rusted and cracked
The hardest part for me was pulling the dishwasher out from under the countertop. Once it is out all you have to do is disconnect the power (or power off the fuse going to the dishwasher) then look underneath the dishwasher and you will see where the two ends of the heating element come through. Disconnect the wires connected to the ends
... Read more
by simply sliding off the connector. Then remove the plastic "nuts" that screw onto the ends of the heating element by turning them counterclockwise counterclockwise. Once the nuts are removed you can reach inside the dishwasher and remove the old heating element and replace it with the new one. Then simply replace the plastic nuts and reconnect the wires and you are good to go.
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- Customer:
- Greg from Burlington, VT
- Parts Used:
- WD15X10014
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Socket set
Water leak, small puddle to front left of dishwasher
You'll need to remove the front toe kick and (if installed, the GE Profile baffling for additional silencing action).
You will need to disconnect the right wire connection to access the right screw (and may need to use a flat head screwdriver). You can then remove the 2 screws that hold the Valve Water Inlet on.
... Read more >You will then need to loosen and the hose clamp that attaches the water line to the Valve Water Inlet. You may need to force it undone since the rubber connection is pretty secure around the water tube inlet.
Disconnect the plastic wire housing from the Valve Water Inlet and you should now have the Valve Water Inlet disconnected.
Reverse the order and reconnect everything and you should be good to go!
Double-check for any leaks prior to pushing everything back in :)
You will need to disconnect the right wire connection to access the right screw (and may need to use a flat head screwdriver). You can then remove the 2 screws that hold the Valve Water Inlet on.
... Read more >You will then need to loosen and the hose clamp that attaches the water line to the Valve Water Inlet. You may need to force it undone since the rubber connection is pretty secure around the water tube inlet.
Disconnect the plastic wire housing from the Valve Water Inlet and you should now have the Valve Water Inlet disconnected.
Reverse the order and reconnect everything and you should be good to go!
Double-check for any leaks prior to pushing everything back in :)
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