Models > CDWT980V50SS

CDWT980V50SS General Electric Dishwasher

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Diagrams for CDWT980V50SS

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Manuals & Guides for CDWT980V50SS

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This basket is part of a silverware basket that has 3 sections. This is the middle section of the basket.
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This part releases the detergent and rinse aid into the dishwasher.
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This water inlet valve is an authentic OEM part for your dishwasher. If can be found behind the lower kickplate panel in either the left or right corner. The valve has a solenoid that opens or closes ...
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This dish rack is for dishwashers. Dish rack holds the dishes in place during the dish washing cycle.
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This part holds the rinse aid liquid in the dispenser until the timer activates the rinse cycle.
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The hinge link on your dishwasher connects the spring to the dishwasher door hinge. If the hinge link becomes cracked or damaged, you may not be able to shut or lock your dishwasher door properly. In ...
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This dishwasher retainer connects to the removable tine.
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This gasket lines the inside cabinet in the dishwasher.
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Sold Individually.
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$37.62
This works in conjunction with the pump and filtration system. It is used to receive drainage for disposal.
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The upper spray arm helps distribute water from the top of the dishwasher tub.
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This part is the replacement door hinge cable for your dishwasher. The door hinge cable connects the door spring to the door hinge, and allows the door to open in a controlled fashion. If you open you...
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Common Problems and Symptoms for CDWT980V50SS

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Leaking
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Not cleaning dishes properly
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Will not dispense detergent
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Door latch failure
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Will not drain
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Will not fill with water
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Not draining
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Noisy
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Door won’t close
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Not drying dishes properly
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Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
Customer:
Trent from Shreveport, LA
Parts Used:
WH23X10028
Difficulty Level:
Really Easy
Total Repair Time:
Less than 15 mins
Tools:
Pliers, Screw drivers
Washing machine would cease functioning at the spin cycle and would not drain.
Remove the front coverfrom the machine. This is done by removing the 3 screws at the bottom of the panel. The panel then drops down and pulls straight off. The pump is located on the front right wall of the of the machine. You will notice a 2-3 inch diamete threaded cap on the right side of the front wall of the machine. This is the f ront of the pump and access to the filter. Place a large bucket under this cap and slowly loosen the cap. All of the water remaining in the machine will begin to drain (this could be a lot of water. Do not remove the cap completely so that you can quickly stop the flow of water if needed). Once all water is drained from the appliance, Disconnect the two hoses from the pump using a pair of pliers to looses the presure clamps, sliding the clamps back an then pulling off the hoses (be careful of any remaining water in the hoses). Then remove the two screws from the rear base of the pump that secure it to the bottom floor panel of the washer. Slide the pump slightly to the rear to free it from the fittings on the front wall of the machine and the lift the pump up. At this point, firmly pull out the wiring harness plugged into the top right side of the pump. Install the new pump by plugging in the wiring harness and resecuring the pump. Plug in the machine and run on the rinse and spin cycle to test.
151 of 179 people found this instruction helpful.
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Customer:
James from Naperville, IL
Parts Used:
WD12X10163
Difficulty Level:
Really Easy
Total Repair Time:
15 - 30 mins
Tools:
Screw drivers
soap door latch broken, wouldn't hold soap for later release in middle of cycle like it was supposed to.
Turned off power to unit, 'cuz it has a solenoid lead to open the soap door.
Removed the phillips head screws that held the door together. The screw are located on the inside edge of the door, there are 10-12 of them.
Spearated the door shells carefully, trying not to disturb the location of the wiring in the middle of the doo r.

Found the 4 screws that hold the module assembly to the door from the inside, and removed them.
Popped the assembly out, cleaned the gasket-seat area and placed the new one in place.
Carefully tightened the 4 screws. It is easy to over-tighten them, so only turn them until you feel they are snug. Let the gasket do the work.
Attached the two solenoid control wires in the same positions they were in before they were removed from the old assembly.
Re-assembled the door halves, again taking care to not over-tighten the phillips-head screws. One got "spun" and I removed it and re-set it into some epoxy.
Returned power to the dishwasher, and stopped washing dishes by hand.
Note: the latch is now made with a plastic that is more dense, and likely will not fail as soon as the original one did. I think GE learned something about the durability of their component plastics since this was originally built.
100 of 105 people found this instruction helpful.
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Customer:
Jason from Jersey City, NJ
Parts Used:
WD05X10010
Difficulty Level:
Easy
Total Repair Time:
15 - 30 mins
Heating element rusted and cracked
The hardest part for me was pulling the dishwasher out from under the countertop. Once it is out all you have to do is disconnect the power (or power off the fuse going to the dishwasher) then look underneath the dishwasher and you will see where the two ends of the heating element come through. Disconnect the wires connected to the ends by simply sliding off the connector. Then remove the plastic "nuts" that screw onto the ends of the heating element by turning them counterclockwise counterclockwise. Once the nuts are removed you can reach inside the dishwasher and remove the old heating element and replace it with the new one. Then simply replace the plastic nuts and reconnect the wires and you are good to go.
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