GSD4112Z02AA General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

I removed the four screws holding the screen and molded plastic cage inside the rear of the dishwasher to expose the check valve assembly. I then unscrewed the piston and nut assembly with my hand and replaced it with the new one. I found that the rubber cone shaped valve on the old piston and nut assembly was entirely disintegrated. This easy repair solved the problem.

replaced rack, no repairs required

The bottom rack was a breeze since it wasn't attached to anything. The more difficult task was removing the plastic rail guard for the top rack. With some elbow grease and ingenuity, I finally figured out that it must be tilted prior to being popped out of its socket. Follow the same procedure after replacing the rack.

The most difficult part was removing the dishwasher from below the counter. Once that was complete, I simply turned the washer onto it's front surface to access the pump easier. Simply disconnected the electrical connectors, loosened the three hose clamps holding the hoses to the pump. Lastly removed a stiff arm bracket holding the pump. Reversed the order to install the new one using a longer bracket provided with the new unit. Hooked up the electrical connections last and slid the washer back in place. The washer runs like new now and is not making noise. The replacement part was a perfect match.

took dishwasher out- put on table to work on-removed wire brace- disconected drain outlet- disconnected top drive seal- removed wire clip connector- removed motor unit----------------
installed new motor/drain unit--used new longer wire brac used adapter to connect electical leads-
tightened clamps and bingo it worked and didnt' leak. good job on the supplying of all the necessary adapers.

Did the install a few days ago 4.25.11 and all went smoothly. The instructions that came with the kit were very straightforward and the diagrams were extremely helpful in locating brackets/hoses/connections. My dad thought he would just get down there and do it, but wasn't sure what to do. Using the directions with the kit, I had the motor and pump off in under 5 minutes. FOLLOW THE DIRECTIONS WITH THE KIT!

Some things to note:
- Get some towels/cups/bowls, we had some water leaking from the dishwasher and hoses.
- Be careful removing the dishwasher from the counters, go slow.


1. Shut off electricity
2. Shut off water. I just shut closed the line that went directly to the dishwasher.
3. Removed screws from bottom panel to expose motor and pump assembly.
4. Removed screws securing the dishwasher to the counters.
5. Slowly slid dishwasher from counter and rotated so door was facing the ground carefully to ensure wires/hoses were not pulled or crushed.
6. Removed screw from bottom of motor that was secured to the hanger.
7. Removed ground screw from bottom of motor.
8. Removed all wired connections from the motor and pump.
9. Loosened hose clamp securing the drain line and removed from motor.
10. Loosened 2x hose clamps securing the motor and pump assembly to dishwasher.
11. Ensured everything was clear and disconnected, and slowly removed motor and pump assembly from dishwasher.
12. Test fit new motor and pump assembly.
13. Reconnected 2x connections to the motor and pump.
14. Secured the ground wire to the motor and pump.
15. Slid motor and pump onto dishwasher and secured the 2x hose clamps.
16. Secured screw from the hanger cable to the motor and pump.
17. Reconnected water line to motor and pump, and tightened hose clamp.
18. Ensured all connections were made, hose clamps were tightened, and there were no extra connections.
19. Rotated dishwasher back onto feet.
20. Slowly slid dishwasher back into counters ensuring no cables or hoses were kinked or crushed.
21. Restored electricity and water to dishwasher, and then performed a quick test of one cycle to check for leeks.
22. Secured bottom panel and dishwasher to counters.
23. Enjoyed having a working dishwasher again!

First I had to unscrew screws under the counter then pulled built in dishwasher out from under the counter, attached hing arm link to right side bracket on door, and the other end I attatched to a spring at the back of the unit. Thats it! and pushed the dishwasher back into place. All back to normal....by the way Im a 67 yr old great grandmother...

Ordered the part, by using the diagram on the ge website identified the part and ordered it right them and when it came (delivered really fast) took it out of the bag and screwed it in the jet dry despenser and is working great.

The hardest part was removing the dishwasher from under the counter and cleaning up the large amount of water that poured out when I turned the unit on its side.
The actual pump replacement was pretty easy except there were a lot of extra parts that were only needed for other brands or other models.
I might have tightened one of the large clamps too much as there was a very slight leak after I was done. One or two drops of water per cycle, which evaporates quickly and not worth taking apart again.
It was not hard but took longer than predicted.
Much better than buying a new dishwasher or paying the estimated $350 to an appliance repair company.

A no brainer. Simply open dishwasher door, remove lower rack and set new rack in place. Roll the new lower rack in dishwasher and close door. It fit perfectly and life routine was instantly on it's way without disruption.

The repair only required me to lift out the old unit and set the new rack into the dishwasher. I was pleased that there was nothing to put together. The rollers were already attached.
It took longer to open the shipping box than to do the installation.

just unscrewed it from the dishwasher with my hand and put the new one back on the same way

Rather than remove the dishwasher from the counter, I performed the repair inplace, which was much less work (although I did have to lay on the floor).
After turning off the power, I removed the two access panels at the bottom of the unit, disconnected the wiring from the pump and solenoid, loosened the drain hose fitting and drained most of the water out of the unit and into a shallow pan (the drain solenoid was stuck open, so this was pretty easy - otherwise, I still could have manually actuated the drain valve & solenoid to drain water through this hose).
There was alot of water in the unit and my pan overflowed a little. If I was doing this again, think I would have disconnected the drain hose from under the sink and drained out through that into a bucket (I could have controlled that flow better).
Once the water was out, there are just two hose clamps that hold the pump onto the unit (one on top and one in the back), and a stabilizer bar that connects the motor to the front frame. Removed these and the whole unit came right out.
The replacement pump & motor was exactly the same as the one that came out, so I didn't need any of the hose or wire adapters that came in the kit.
Reconnected the two pump connections, motor bracket and wiring, and the unit was good-to-go!

bottom rack was easy as just pull out and replace. Upper rack had to move front part of the brackets to pull out rack which did require some figuring out but I did finally get it and once I figured out one side the other was easy.

Replacing the rack was a "no-brainer". I simply removed the plastic keepers on the ends of the roller racks with a screw driver, pulled the old one out, slid the new one in, and then replaced the keepers with pliers. It couldn't have been easier.