GM954110 (09) Gaggenau Dishwasher - Instructions

We let this go for a shameful amount of time before I decided I could probably fix it. The roller broke so you could only pull it out about halfway or it would come off the track. I looked up the part, and bought it. Actually bought two in case it happened again. When I arrived I looked at how it was put together on the other side and then just basically pushed it onto the rod and it was fixed. I am ashamed it took so long to do it. Never be afraid to try it yourself. It was a total of $10 shipped to fix it.

I used a wet vac to remove the water from the dishwasher. remove cover and filter/strainer from bottom of dishwasher. remove screw which allows you to lift the plastic piece to access check valve. Original check valve looked like new , I installed new check valve re installed parts . Job done and issue resolved .

REMOVED DISHWASHER FROM CABINET. DETACHED BASE FROM BODY OF THE DISHWASHER. INSTALLED NEW CORD, REATTACHED BASE TO BODY OF DISHWASHER AND REINSTALLED IN CABINET. OPINION: THIS IS A LENGTHY REPAIR AND UNNECESSARY ONE. THE CORD IS PART OF THE DOOR COUNTERWEIGHT AND SUBJECT TO TENSION EVERY TIME THE DOOR IS OPENED, AS WELL AS POTENTIAL CHAFFING DUE TO PROXIMITY TO VARIOUS METAL PARTS, AND VIBRATION. THE CORD SHOULD BE MADE OF STRONGER MATERIAL AND ARMORED OR ALLOWED MORE CLEARANCE. BOSCH SHOULD FIX TO LAST THE LIFE OF THE DISHWASHER.

There are two ways to do this repair: the "right" way and the hard way. I chose the hard way, as the right way involves disconnecting the dishwasher plumbing, removing the dishwasher from under the counter, taking all the outer panels off, and disabling the door springs. There are good YouTube videos on this. The hard way doesn't involve that -- but is not all that easy and I'm not sure I'd recommend it. The problem, in essence, is that to install the new seal there is now way to do it without taking the door off the machine and taking the door apart -- which requires that the springs be locked out, if not disabled.

I accomplished that part of it by opening the door, partially, undoing the two screws on each side which hold the hinges, taking the front panel off (piece of cake, with a Torx driver),slipping the door partly off the hinges, and then locking the hinges open with the pry bars.

There are an assortment of ways one could seriously damage either the door or one's self doing it that way -- the hinge springs are very powerful -- so I don't recommend my approach.

I removed the old gasket easily, it pulled right out. I spent a few minutes cleaning the gunk out from the seam using a standard kitchen cleaner (it was gross and I had to do it multiple times). Tip: pay attention to the shape of the gasket and which side faces in vs. out when pulling out the old one. Also, for reference, take a photo of the old gasket and how it's positioned before pulling it out. Then, simply start at the bottom (either side) and insert the new gasket. Work your way up, over and down the other side. If it's facing the right way it'll go in very easily, if not is will be very difficult—this is how you'll know. After installation, run your dishwasher empty for a full cycle (with towel underneath the door) and check back frequently during the cycle. If there are no leaks you're done. This was the fastest, easiest way to attempt to fix a leaky door and eliminate the gasket as the problem (which it did!) If the machine still leaks the issue is likely something bigger.

To perform the repair, the door panel must be removed (8 Torx screws) and the door removed from the hinges in order to access the lower door seal. For this model Bosch and other similar models, the hinge springs must then be disengaged (safer) or kept from retracting. To disengage the springs requires removing the entire unit, disconnecting the water supply, and flipping it on its side to disengage the springs. I chose the latter, keeping the unit in place, holding the hinges with vice-grips on either side, then removing the door. This was not easy and caution is required. Either method is risky with a 20-year dishwasher.
The replacement part does not fit as well as the original (much sturdier) part, but appears to seal well for now. Repair videos on the internet are for different, newer models where disabling the hinges as described here is not required, making the repair much easier. Recommend looking carefully at your model/manual to determine if the difficulty of the repair is easy or hard.

Went to on line video and followed it. The old gasket came right out and the new one fit right in. Started at the top middle and worked the gasket in on both sides to make sure it was evenly spaced.

Vice grip door hinges. No need to disconnect, un hook hing springs. Works slick. Small vice grips. On hinges. Remove tore screws. Remove seal , and replace seal, reconnect door screws. Boom done.

Use a screwdriver flat blade to pry up one edge of closed lid. Put one side of lid into hinge and snapped other side into place. Very easy.

Use screwdriver to gently wedge the side of the dispenser body apart enough to pop out the old kid, then insert the new kid in it's place.

I ordered the wrong part....needed their help to locate the correct part.
Sent 3 emails asking for help to the 'customer service' email ----NEVER heard a word!!!......and now they want me to rate the installation ?!
Horrible customer service

The part was perfect. The repair video was very helpful, except it did not include the disassembly of the old part. I figured that out, and all went smoothly until the final step. The screw included required not a slot-head screwdriver which everyone has, not a Phillips head screwdriver which everyone has, but a screw requiring a specialized driver that no one has. WHY? I substituted a normal screw and hope that does not mean the terrorists have won.

Followed the video on your site and it was an easy install with no more leakage.

I have granite countertops and one of the hold down brackets broke to wood cabinet side mount. Easy and fast repair to remove old brackets, pull out dishwasher, and I replaced both brackets with new, and new wood screws. New installation looks better than original done 18 years ago. Very easy to do and saved a lot of money if I had an appliance repair company do it.

Replaced ‘sump’ housing , seal was leaking on it- replaced inop float on water level warning system switch, and switch itself as well- replaced drain pump motor attached to sump- replaced o-ring seal at water sprayer inlet valve- replaced water inlet plastic assemble on side of dishwasher- replaced drain hose out of sump assembly.

Used YouTube video to understand repair- this is an involved repair in time and complexity- dishwasher eventually gets turned upside down once removed and stripped down, to remove the white plastic water pan , which then allows access to the guts of all the above parts- some critical seals only come with new assemblies, so you are buying that new part to get a new seal and ensure no new leaks from what you took apart.