S45KMK15UC (60) Bosch Dishwasher - Instructions

With the help of You Tube, this 50 year old Mom got the job done. Not that complicated if you watch the step by step instructions on the Appliance Pro video. My repairman and husband were both determined to just buy a new one but this 20 year old dishwashing genius was just in need of a little repair. Only need a screwdriver, and slightly confusing as wires hook on a little different on new pumps. I suggest watching video the whole way through and then playing it step by step as you do the repair. Worked great for me. Thanks.

I used a wet vac to remove the water from the dishwasher. remove cover and filter/strainer from bottom of dishwasher. remove screw which allows you to lift the plastic piece to access check valve. Original check valve looked like new , I installed new check valve re installed parts . Job done and issue resolved .

REMOVED DISHWASHER FROM CABINET. DETACHED BASE FROM BODY OF THE DISHWASHER. INSTALLED NEW CORD, REATTACHED BASE TO BODY OF DISHWASHER AND REINSTALLED IN CABINET. OPINION: THIS IS A LENGTHY REPAIR AND UNNECESSARY ONE. THE CORD IS PART OF THE DOOR COUNTERWEIGHT AND SUBJECT TO TENSION EVERY TIME THE DOOR IS OPENED, AS WELL AS POTENTIAL CHAFFING DUE TO PROXIMITY TO VARIOUS METAL PARTS, AND VIBRATION. THE CORD SHOULD BE MADE OF STRONGER MATERIAL AND ARMORED OR ALLOWED MORE CLEARANCE. BOSCH SHOULD FIX TO LAST THE LIFE OF THE DISHWASHER.

There are two ways to do this repair: the "right" way and the hard way. I chose the hard way, as the right way involves disconnecting the dishwasher plumbing, removing the dishwasher from under the counter, taking all the outer panels off, and disabling the door springs. There are good YouTube videos on this. The hard way doesn't involve that -- but is not all that easy and I'm not sure I'd recommend it. The problem, in essence, is that to install the new seal there is now way to do it without taking the door off the machine and taking the door apart -- which requires that the springs be locked out, if not disabled.

I accomplished that part of it by opening the door, partially, undoing the two screws on each side which hold the hinges, taking the front panel off (piece of cake, with a Torx driver),slipping the door partly off the hinges, and then locking the hinges open with the pry bars.

There are an assortment of ways one could seriously damage either the door or one's self doing it that way -- the hinge springs are very powerful -- so I don't recommend my approach.

I removed the old gasket easily, it pulled right out. I spent a few minutes cleaning the gunk out from the seam using a standard kitchen cleaner (it was gross and I had to do it multiple times). Tip: pay attention to the shape of the gasket and which side faces in vs. out when pulling out the old one. Also, for reference, take a photo of the old gasket and how it's positioned before pulling it out. Then, simply start at the bottom (either side) and insert the new gasket. Work your way up, over and down the other side. If it's facing the right way it'll go in very easily, if not is will be very difficult—this is how you'll know. After installation, run your dishwasher empty for a full cycle (with towel underneath the door) and check back frequently during the cycle. If there are no leaks you're done. This was the fastest, easiest way to attempt to fix a leaky door and eliminate the gasket as the problem (which it did!) If the machine still leaks the issue is likely something bigger.

To perform the repair, the door panel must be removed (8 Torx screws) and the door removed from the hinges in order to access the lower door seal. For this model Bosch and other similar models, the hinge springs must then be disengaged (safer) or kept from retracting. To disengage the springs requires removing the entire unit, disconnecting the water supply, and flipping it on its side to disengage the springs. I chose the latter, keeping the unit in place, holding the hinges with vice-grips on either side, then removing the door. This was not easy and caution is required. Either method is risky with a 20-year dishwasher.
The replacement part does not fit as well as the original (much sturdier) part, but appears to seal well for now. Repair videos on the internet are for different, newer models where disabling the hinges as described here is not required, making the repair much easier. Recommend looking carefully at your model/manual to determine if the difficulty of the repair is easy or hard.

Went to on line video and followed it. The old gasket came right out and the new one fit right in. Started at the top middle and worked the gasket in on both sides to make sure it was evenly spaced.

It was necessary to pull the dish washer to access the valve located on the lower left front of machine. Some difficulty in disconnecting water inlet and outlet hoses to valve since spring clips used to secure hoses. Tight spaces to remove the old valve and install new valve. Used screw type hose clamp on reinstall in lieu of spring clips. May have been easier had I had the special pliers used to remove and install spring type clips.
Saved a minimum of $100 for service call.

Slip the wheel onto the axle, snap the clip facing up onto the frame

Vice grip door hinges. No need to disconnect, un hook hing springs. Works slick. Small vice grips. On hinges. Remove tore screws. Remove seal , and replace seal, reconnect door screws. Boom done.

Use a screwdriver flat blade to pry up one edge of closed lid. Put one side of lid into hinge and snapped other side into place. Very easy.

Use screwdriver to gently wedge the side of the dispenser body apart enough to pop out the old kid, then insert the new kid in it's place.

To replace the part per se was simple. To put everything back in place was more difficult as I took the base of the dishwasher off and a lor of other parts in order to reach for the drain pump. The irony was, after I took appart the base I fount a clip on the internet showing how to do that job and that was a very simple thing, couple of screws to take off the toe plate and the interior liner of the door, to create good access to the drain pump. Really a job of 10 minutes at the max.

Remove lower panel
TURN OFF POWER AT BREAKER
Remove water line
Remove the screws on bottom left of washer to remove solenoid valve
Pull out solenoid valve carefully there is a wire plugged into it, far enough to remove clamp on the hose
Remove valve far enough to disconnect wire
Order correct valve assembly
Reinstall in reverse order

I took out the old filter and replaced it with the filter I had ordered. Very easy and not necessary to call a repairman.