Models > SHX88PZ65N

SHX88PZ65N (18) Bosch Dishwasher

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Diagrams for SHX88PZ65N

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$44.42
This wheel kit is used for the lower rack of your dishwasher. The kit includes 8 wheels and axels. To install you can simply clip the wheel onto the frame. There are eight wheels on the lower rack in...
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This part is a replacement tine row clip for your dishwasher. The tine row clip is adjustable, and it fits onto your dishrack to holds the tines into place. If your dishrack tine rows will not stay in...
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This is an authentic metal mounting bracket for a dishwasher, sold individually. The purpose of this part is to secure the top of the dishwasher to the bottom of your counter. If there is no way to mo...
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This circulation pump with heater is for dishwashers. Circulation pump with heater moves heated water through the spray arm to clean the dishes. Unplug the dishwasher before installing this part...
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$21.92
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$24.85
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$5.36
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Common Problems and Symptoms for SHX88PZ65N

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Leaking
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Not draining
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Not cleaning dishes properly
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Not drying dishes properly
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Door latch failure
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Door won’t close
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Will not dispense detergent
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Will not fill with water
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Will Not Start
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Noisy
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Customer:
Raymond from VIENNA, VA
Parts Used:
10023852
Difficulty Level:
Easy
Total Repair Time:
30 - 60 mins
Tools:
Pliers
E:15 error code with Watertap
The E:15 error code means water is detected in the pan under the unit. There are several ways this can happen.

In this case, it was caused by a bad inlet valve. It did not close properly and led to an overflow of water inside that eventually spilled into the pan underneath the unit.

I see now why the pump keeps run ning after this error. In this case, it would have led to a big flood in the kitchen if it did not.

I was actually able to run the unit while broke by manually operating the valve under our sink that provides water to the unit.

Be sure to turn off breaker before servicing. Don't get shocked!

Be sure to turn off water before starting! Or, you'll have a flood.

Anyway, I just pulled the unit out (was secured by 2 screws on the sides). I lifted up the insulation material on the left side to get at the valve. Pushed a little green tab to release the electrical plug. Then, use pliers to move clamp off the white water hose on the inside. Then, pull of white hose. This was hard in my case. Took a lot of force. Then, reach behind the unit and use pliers to unscrew water hose. Now, the whole gray panel there can pop out with some force. Then, slip the old valve out and slip new one in. Reconnect hoses and clamp. Note that I put some caulk on the connector where white hose goes. Not sure if needed or not.

Good luck!
25 of 37 people found this instruction helpful.
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Customer:
Susan from MIDDLEBURY, VT
Parts Used:
00779033
Difficulty Level:
Really Easy
Total Repair Time:
15 - 30 mins
The middle rack was rusting and some of the pegs were coming off.
Removed the spray arm, front handle, and little clips from the old rack and installed onto the new rack. Was very simple.
11 of 13 people found this instruction helpful.
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Customer:
KATHLEEN from PECONIC, NY
Parts Used:
10023852
Difficulty Level:
A Bit Difficult
Total Repair Time:
More than 2 hours
Tools:
Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable)
E15 code basin filling up with water
Turned off electric
Slid out unit - the water connection on this model is in the back
Disconnected the H2O hose. This valve access part is the part that connects the dishwasher to the H2O supply. The soon to be replaced part had sediment in it preventing H2O to go into the dishwasher and into the basin instead. The exploded view of dishwasher was a big help. It was a guess as to why this was happening. Now that I’ve had it apart it makes sense that this is the part that would fail after a period of time, especially if you have city H2O. My husband Bob did this repair.
8 of 8 people found this instruction helpful.
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