DDW361RAC-PDDW361RAC0 Amana Dishwasher - Instructions

I opened the end stop of the rack, replaced the roller, and put the end stop back on. I can't believe I paid the repairman the last time $125????? An he put in a regular screw that rusted and broke the roller. Took me 3 minutes! Thanks

I ordered two clips just in case. Turns out I needed both of them. Since I hadn't seen the adjustable tines installed, it took some time to figure out how to put the assembly together.

For some reason I had the dishwasher for 7 years before it occurred to me to order the replacement parts. It's much more efficient to use with the adjustable tines properly installed as I can load approximately 25% more plates than before.

I watched the installlation video found on the wedsite and followed his directions.

Using the pliers, my husband pulled out the old gasket to get it started. He then pushed the new gasket in with his fingers and used a screwdriver to press in the ends. That's it. Pretty easy. I ran the dishwasher a couple of hours after he installed it and there were no leaks. Still not leaking. Seems a bit quieter since the seal
is better.

I was secretly hoping for a new dishwasher eventually. But it makes much more sense to shell out $43 for the gasket rather than spend the $600 or better for a new dishwasher!

I found the website very easy to use as well. Everything shipped quickly and there were no problems at all. I will bookmark this in favorites should I need it again!

I ordered and replaced both the door gasket (easy) and inner door seal (difficult) to try and correct a leak during operation. The door gasket was easily replaced. However, the inner door seal was a bit more trouble. After removing the inner door I found that the old inner seal needed to be removed and surfaces thoroughly cleaned of old build-up of dishwasher soap residue, in order to allow the sticky back tape side of door seal to properly stick to the door. There also was a plastic cover over the wire bundle that needed to be cleaned. The inner door seal was the exact length, so proper positioning of the sticky back was very important.
Upon reassemly the leak still existed and I was unable to correct the leak. Further inspection indicated that the basic tub/body of the dishwasher might be slightly distorted due to age and may not create seal with door seal as originally designed.
I guess I need to find a new dishwasher, at this point.
A word to the wise: Check to see if the tub/body is still in good condition.

Observed the way gasket was installed including slight overhang on each side.
I simply pulled out the old gasket, starting at one end. I then wiped down the area with a dampened rag and pressed in the new gasket exactly the way the old one came out. It is important not to stretch it, just push it into place ending up with the same overhang on both sides.
Total time less than 5 minutes with no tools.

I suspected that the wax motor had gone bad based on reviews I had read. The repair requires a TORX bit to remove seven screws holding the plastic cover on the inside of the door. I sat in a chair with the door resting on my knees and took the screws out. Once open, the two wax motors are under the cover and easily accessible. You simply pull the wax motors out and detach two wire plugs. You should note how the wires are attached. The wire plugs were a little difficult to pull off but with a little effort they came straight off. Once new wax motors were installed, the soap dispenser opened.

I was also using a gel dishwasher detergent and was told that, for some reason, it might have begun to act like glue and this might also have prevented the soap dispenser from opening. I switched to powder and that did not solve the problem leading me to replace the wax motors. The soap dispenser spring seems a little weak so I have continued using powder.

Once I figured out how to get the endcap off the roller track (allow several minutes, because it was designed by some dork), I slipped the old roller off the track, put the new roller on, and clipped it to the rack. Then I put the track cap back on (really easy once you've figured out how to get it off) and it was good as new.

As for how the cap comes off, it's difficult to describe. But it may help you to know that the cap, despite what it looks like at first, is actually surprisingly long and folded on top of itself. Pulling it directly out doesn't work; you have to unfold it before there's any chance of getting it out.

First, removed end cap in steel sliding upper rail, second, removed broken roller, third, attached new roller, you can look at other rollers to see how it goes on, fourth, feed new roller into track, replace end cap. Takes less than 10 min, saved 85. 00 Bucks.

clipped in the replacements and installed the assembly. Easy and thanks, PartSelect.

Took off old part. Modified new roller w'knife. Found a nut and bolt in scrap pile. Attached.

This ended up to be a (2) phase project. The first repair was to replace the door seal and inner door foam. Thanks to earlier online comments this part was really easy, but we still had a small leak. When I had removed the interior face of the door panel to replace the inner door foam, I had noticed the insulation was wet and deducted that the 'soap cup door latch gasket' was the real culprit so I had to place a second order (Phase 2). The order came quickly and in time for next Saturdays to to list. My advice is to replace all 4 items at the same time and save on mailing cost and repair time; reservoir O-ring, soap cup door latch gasket, inner foam gasket and door gasket. net repair time, about an hour start to finish.
Don and Rosie
Rochester, NY

The initial repair was more involved due to figuring out how to get at the problem. A foam sealer strip located at the bottom of the inner door had lost it's seal. I first sent off for one and it was of relatively thin material. It was carefully installed but still leaked. I ordered another one from Part Select and it had thicker foam. It was installed right over the previously installed strip and made a tight seal. (knock on wood)

After performing some maintenance to get the water flowing properly through the system (that's another story) the door was leaking very badly during any test run of the dishwasher.

We thought it was the gasket because the old one was calcified and dried out from years of harder water.

We ordered the new one and in minutes after receiving the new gasket we had a firm seal and our dishwasher was back in action.

The real cause of the leak had nothing to do with the foam strip. The latch for the front loading door at the top needed to be adjusted to hold the door in tighter to the rubber door seal. This simple adjustment stopped the leak but since the foam seal was all encrusted with dried detergent from probably years of absorbing the leak, I replaced it with your new foam strip. I used a screw driver with torx bit and removed the stainless screws holding the inner door to the outer door. Once these were separated I removed the old foam strip using a putty knife and lacquer thinner. Placing the new strip onto these cleaned surfaces was the easiest part of the whole repair.