ADB1400AWS0 Amana Dishwasher - Instructions

Caviat: The actual repair is less than 15 minutes, but I spent a lot of time playing with it before I figured out it was that easy and fast. You don't need to remove the dishwasher from the counter to do this. And it will probably help to look at the new part closely so you can understand where the retainer clip is to press it and release the old pump.

First remove the water from the dishwasher pan that would not drain with a wet/dry vac. Otherwise the water will all drain on the floor when you remove the pump. Then remove the two screws on the kickplate on the front of the unit below the door. Remove the kickplate/maintainence access cover. The drain pump is on the right about 8 inches in. Using two hands you grasp the drain pump with your right hand and use the left hand to push the retaining clip down. Then the drain pump will rotate 1/4 turn counterclockwise and can be removed without pulling the dishwasher out. There is likely to be some water leak out that was traped in the pump housing that you can not reach with the vac. Disconnect the wire. Connect the wire to the new pump, put it in place and 1/4 turn clockwise to install it. Replace the kickplate and you're done.

1) Remove top and bottom dish baskets from the dishwasher, this will give you room to work. To remove top basket there are clips at the end of the slide rails.
2) Remove lower spray arm by unscrewing plastic screw, it should only be hand tight.
3) In order to remove the strainer cover, you will need to remove the plastic tube that takes water to the middle and top spray arms. Unclip this tube from the top and middle clips and then work it out of the strainer assembly tube. Now you should be able to remove the tube at the bottom of the dishwasher by unscrewing it 1/4 turn.
4) Remove the strainer cover by unscrewing the 4 Torqs screws.
5) You will now see two smaller torqs screws that hold the hold the Chopper Assembly cover down. Take these two screws out and remove the two piece cover.
6) Pull out the broken Chopper Assembly, make sure you get all the pieces!
7) Install the new Chopper Assembly. Make sure that you install the Assembly with the small part of the screen towards the bottom of the housing. Also make sure you compress the spring as you install the part. I used a small pair of neddle nose pliers to compress the spring behind the screen in order to install the chopper assembly.
8) Put everything back together and make sure it works!

Step 1: Remove the screws in the bottom of the countertop.

Step 2: Remove the screws holding the bottom kickplate.

Step 3: Loosen leveling legs.

Step 4: Pull dishwasher out of hole.

Step 5: Unlplug dishwasher.

Step 6: Disconnect wires from bottom of element in back.

Step 7: Remove plastic nuts holding element in place.

Step 8: Remove element.

Step 9: Reverse Steps 1-7.

Step 10: Drink beer.

I did a search on the website and read the instructions for trouble shooting. I took the inside door off by taking the screws out. I pulled the part and tested it and found it did not in fact have no ampage. I then ordered the part on line. It came in two days, I plugged it in, put the door back together and the total time was about 15-20 minutes. Easy, simple, great instructions and the entire thing only costed me the part itself. It's working great now! And I've never worked on appliances before.

Worked the new gasket into the groove with a smooth screwdriver and my fingers. No leaks and it stays in place. Parts Select had the right part and I got it fast

The hardest part of this was figuring out the cause of the leak. It only leaked while the washer was running (arms spinning). I thought it might be the air intake seal at the lower part of the door-but that did not look damaged.
I cleaned off the door gasket really good and that slowed the leak - so I figured the gasket was the problem (plus changing the gasket is cheap and it was old anyway).

I pulled the old gasket off (no tools required).
I cleaned the track/slot that the gasket goes into, and the area around it from all the caked-on soap and gunk.
Cleaned off the door edge that seals with the gasket too.
I took the new gasket and folded it in half to find the middle, then started with the middle, putting it into the track (used the center door latch on the frame to know the middle on the washer).
I worked the gasket into the slot just with my fingers. I found that if I pinched the part that goes into the slot with my thumb/finger that helped get it deep into the slot without tools.
I worked around one side, slowly and carefully pushing it into the slot. Did the other side the same way - starting from the middle and working down to the end at the bottom of the washer. Checked the gasket to make sure it was all set in well.
There is an inch or so of the gasket left over at the bottom - I just bent that around the bend so it was not in the way.

The unit had power, but the controls would not work. The "clean" light was blinking. I first replaced the control unit, no help. I then used the "just ask" and was told the problem was the heating element and/or the hi-temp thermostat. I replaced both those and used the re-set code pushing the "hi-temp/air dry, hi-temp/air dry" buttons. That did it. Easy parts to locate and replace. It took longer pulling the unit out and putting it back than it did to replace the parts.

After replacing the thermal fuse 5 times i noticed the new packaging came with a terminal block on then fuse harness. PLEASE USE THIS. It is a must, it supposedly is acting as some type of heat sink or something for added protection. Used the unit on all cycles now and works great. Just follow fuse instructions precisely. Hope it helps.

Took racks out, loosen screw on top and back then twist feed tube to right and whole assembly can be removed. Now you should be able to see some torx screws; remove those and then remove the piece they were holding down, from there you'll see another screw, remove it and the piece and so on until there are no more screws. Now there is the food chopper cover that needs to be removed; mine was stuck there. You should notice some ribs underneath that allow the water to be sucked in while keeping really big pieces out; I got a pair of channel-locks, opened them all the way and was able to slip one of the pieces under the cover and pull straight up, once off you will see the chopper covvered in food. I cleaned mine off and it looked good, but when I put it back and stuck my finger down teh discharge tube and turned the pump, the chpper did not turn. when I put the new one in and did the same test it did turn. If the chopper is still fits in the slot, it can be cleaned and put back and work for several washes while the part is shipped. I went ahead and changed the check valve since I had it opened which is just to the right of the chopper(all you can see is a little slit and some black rubber). Use some needle nose and pull it out. I would not do this unless you plan on changing it, I pulled mine out to look at it and when I put it back so I could order the parts the dishwasher never drained properly. When you compare a new one with an old one you will see what I mean, you can drop a new one right in but the old one you will have to force in (gets water logged over time and expands). This job is very easy and a lot cheaper than a new DW...and your wife will be impressed, so do not be intimidated.

As I pulled out the old rubber gasket I noticed there was a flat side and a curved side, this is how the new one must go. When I put in the new gasket in I just made sure the flat side (faced out) and it really was very simple. It just fits inside a grove, very easy to install. I compared the to parts (old and new) they were exactly the same shape and length.
I was very impressed with the web site navigation and layout. I was able to zoom in on pictures of the part and there were exact measurements of dimensions.

Very easy to install the new B Metal Fuse. Removed torx head screws holding the outer door panel on the dish washer. Removed the fuse and two wires connected to the fuse. Inserted the new fuse in the holder and plugged the two wire connectors back
on. Installed the outer door panel back on, turned the breaker back and the machine powered back up. Very easy install and saved a service call. Total repair cost $24

unscrewed dishwasher from cabinet ...,moved out slightly....while door closed ...reached with long nosed pliers door spring pulled forward...and allowing white plastic part that fits through sleeve and fit new sleeve over it...pulled spring attaching white plastic part and pushed unit back to cabinet and replaced screws DONE.

Checked grinder and cleaned it several times, adjusted blades. Dishes would be clean for approx. 6 cycles, then would not clean. Placed dishwasher on its front and removed the motor. Removed grinder and impeller which I found to be worn so that the blades would not turn on the grinder which caused it to collect food particles. The impeller locks in easily.

This product comes in a bottle with a brush like Liquid Paper. It goes on incredibly easy. A second coat might be needed. I wanted to prevent rust from setting in so I covered the scratches and dings. The paint is a little brighter since my washer is 10 years old but it still looks great.

open dishwasher door, use torx socket and ratchet to remove 6 screws. Pull down wash options face, find the bi-metal fuse. Used the directions in the package to replace. popped old fuse out of electrical board, Cut 2 wires, stripped said wires, attached stripped wires in housing on new part, tightened the 2 screws where new wires attach, popped new fuse in electrical board. Reattached face. Very simple and easy to do. Did not fix the problem. Had to get the electrical board that the bi-metal fuse is snapped into. Very easy for someone that has worked on vehicles or electrical things before. If no experience, then I would say it is still easy as long as you follow the directions taht comes with the part. It has pictures as well.