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AD50USL5
AD50USL5 Whirlpool Dehumidifier
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$5.41
Sold individually. The size of this screw is 1/4" hex head and 10-12 x 1/2".
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Order within the next 7 hrs and your part ships today!
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Janet
July 25, 2022
My dehumidifier is leaking water and i would like to fix that problem. Please help.
For model number AD50USL5
Hi Janet,
Thank you for your question. If your dehumidifier is leaking, make sure that the bucket is positioned correctly and check it for signs of damage. Also, make sure that the drain hose is fitted correctly and that there is no damage to it. Check the air filter and if it is dirty clean it. A dirty air filter can cause leaking. If you have any questions, please let us know. We are open 7 days a week. We look forward to hearing from you!
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Related Parts:
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- Customer:
- Michael from Madison, NC
- Parts Used:
- 1186481
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
The dehumidifier did not turn off automatically when the collection bucket was full (or removed).
The microswitch that senses a full or missing collection bucket can almost be removed without taking off the cover of the dehumidifier, but the arrangement and orientation of connector contacts makes that very difficult. It took me five minutes to remove the cover (Phillips head screwdriver), 30 seconds to replace the switch, and a few m
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inutes to re-install the cover. Works like a champ.
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- Customer:
- Steven from Owings Mills, MD
- Parts Used:
- WP1172075
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
the dehumidifier was not shutting off when water level was full
replaced a piece of the plastic at the top of the bucket that seems to be the water gauge. this seems to be fixed. we are very happy
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- Customer:
- Alan Van from Springfield, OR
- Parts Used:
- WP1187912
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
bad control on 1998 Whirlpool dehumidifier
Disassemble all the housings starting with front cover, top, sheetmetal side/back piece and top styrofoam support. The top slides back 3/8" before you can lift it up off the keys. Carefully pry/pop the control board loose from the top piece and swap all the wires. Had to cut loose 2 zip-ties to re-route the tank switch wires: immediately
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replace with new zip-tie left full loose so new wires can be re-routed without wiring bundle falling all over. Get all the wires positioned and finish tightening up the zip-ties, but not all the way, just like the factory did. Cut the tails on the ties.
While all the housings were off I vacuumed off the parts and coils and washed the fan blades off with soapy water and a sponge. Looked for chafed wires and such. Trimmed the coil case up with sheet metal shears where it was rubbing on the styrofoam bottom tray and gently filed the cut smooth.
Reassembly: snap the board back into the top piece, put the styrofoam top support on, then the side/back metal, then the top, dropping it onto the keys and sliding it forward again. The front piece goes on last.
While all the housings were off I vacuumed off the parts and coils and washed the fan blades off with soapy water and a sponge. Looked for chafed wires and such. Trimmed the coil case up with sheet metal shears where it was rubbing on the styrofoam bottom tray and gently filed the cut smooth.
Reassembly: snap the board back into the top piece, put the styrofoam top support on, then the side/back metal, then the top, dropping it onto the keys and sliding it forward again. The front piece goes on last.
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